Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Now I want to build a really angry pissed off 75 with no interior, inner doors cut out, lexan, no dashboard, no head lights or rear lights, coil over suspension

This 75 wont do anything besides time attacks on hill climbs and sprints.

So in summary, should I get a 2l or 2.5l as the base?
I don't think it makes much difference which you start with, because if you're building a serious time attack car you probably wouldn't be keeping the engine or transaxle anyway.
2
General Discussion / 105 v Alfetta v 75 Track Times. Whats better?
« Last post by Alfatango on January 22, 2022, 07:27:11 PM »
Hey all, I was watching this video at PI of a 105, Alfetta and 75 all following each other https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c_i8eNmFTFw . No one is really pulling away from each other.

So this leads me to a question, whats the better base to build a car to get the fastest time at a track like PI? But more specifically from a financial perspectice, what makes a faster race car an alfetta or 75? Because there are LOT of alfetta race cars that come up for sale compared to 75s. Also if money was no object would a 105 with a similar build be faster than an alfetta or 75?

Also would anyone have the factory weights of just the engine for all the engine options for all 3 cars?
3
Hi gents. I have built a 156 track/race car as per my build thread here https://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=21287.0 . For me it is a huge success as I didn't realize there are other alfa nutters that care about a race car build thread.

When I was on  the track in the 156, I had a distinct thought , what if this car was rwd? Then I relaised the 75 is precisely that. I tried to buy a road registered 75 but the looks and interior are hard to get over for me for the price they ARE worth. They are great cars but I couldnt part ways with the cash and an alfetta project car came up so I will have that on historic plates. This leaves me with the space to build an angry time attack car.

Now I want to build a really angry pissed off 75 with no interior, inner doors cut out, lexan, no dashboard, no head lights or rear lights, coil over suspension and down the track a full imsa fibreglass body kit. Now from a finacial perspectice, what is a better base to work off, the 2.0 ts or 2.5l v6? A super rough 3.0l is hard to find whereas the 2.5l and 2.0 do come up. I get the 2.0 ts has the lsd and is Chain driven and is lighter at the front.

This 75 wont do anything besides time attacks on hill climbs and sprints.

So in summary, should I get a 2l or 2.5l as the base? Is the 2.5l more or less durable? How much heavier is the engine of the 2.5l over the 2.0 ts? Or does anyone have a rough 3.0l 75 that could be the base for this?
4
Thanks fot all the commenst fellas. I think I will keep the air con till I am regular on the Twin Spark circuit as for me personally I would love to get into endurance racing so the 12h and 6h regularity events is main likelihood for the short term. I have tried to keep this in mind so I left the heater, fog lights and now air con for the time being. Its maybe around 25kg of gear but for me the safety benefits outweigh the extra tenth. I think I have to build another car to be a really angry time attack car that doesnt need to abide by any category laws. Maybe a 75 stripped back, inner door cuts out, no dash, no head lights or rear lights and fibre glass, lexan and a proper coil over type suspension kit. I am not a huge fan of the 75 looks so adding an imsa look with only improve it whereas most alfettas with too much fibre glass look a bit weird as they nailed the design.

Plus I will be probably be unveiling a new alfa project soon (driving the 156 led me down this path) so the only thing left to do on the 156 is wait for the half cage, take out the cat and paint the  second set of wheels gold. Other than that hopefully will have the first event of the year in a couple of weeks as may be doing the Bathurst hill climb in this 156. Gt3 bathurst 12h is the holy grail for me so may as well start taking small steps.

https://bathurstlightcarclub.com.au/events/esses-hillclimb-6-02-2022
5
940 Series (Giulietta, Mito and 4C) / Stelvio Oil Sensor
« Last post by johnverga on January 22, 2022, 05:02:17 PM »
Has anyone experienced problems with their Stelvio Oil sensor.
6
Brakes like tyres are considered a wear and tear item and not usually covered under warranty.   The manufacturer will typically argue the car has been driven aggressively and hard braking has caused the rotors to warp causing pulsation / vibration.  Happens regularly.

Try contacting an independent and asking for a quote to machine the brake rotors.  Given the car has only done 6,000 kms, the rotors should be well within their wear limit.
7
Victoria / Re: Two dead Alfa's in two weeks
« Last post by First Alfa on January 22, 2022, 07:23:24 AM »
Yep, that's it. Just makes me sad :(
8
Just reading some track car threads and a good poiint for keeping the air con is to keep the front windows from fogging up on colder raining days. May be applicable if you are doing a 24h race.

I doubt the 156 aircon would make any noticeable difference to screen fogging on a stripped out track car in the wet.......   It can barely keep up in normal road use.
9
932 Series (156, GTV, Spider, 147, GT, and 166) / Re: Alfa 156 V6
« Last post by Beatle on January 21, 2022, 09:42:28 PM »
I used Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 10W-60 after getting in trouble from BazzBazz for using HPR10 (10W50)...... ;)

Prior to the 156 I used HPR10 (10W50) in the GT and it was Penrites recommended oil'at the time.  But now they state 10W60 with 'no substitutes'.

A tad expensive for a daily driver and one 5L bottle isn't enough.  It's also harder to source than Castrol Edge Supercar 10W-60 (similar price), but I have a 'thing' about Castrol oils (completely baseless......)

I'd guess the marketing guys have decided that Alfa owners are all cashed up...
10
Victoria / Re: $ Giulia Quadrifoglio... long time lurker, first time poster!
« Last post by kaleuclint on January 21, 2022, 07:37:47 PM »
OP is asking for intel on actual sale prices being negotiated with dealer, as opposed to list or advertised prices that are significantly higher.  Nobody in their right mind pays full tote.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10