The dreaded engine light - 939 2.2 JTS

[bazzbazz]

Fingers crossed. 

[ACE]

Assembly completed on Saturday.
Took it for a run (approx 100km) on Sunday.

No EML and no error codes, during or on return 
Since the original appearance of the EMLs a Lambda sensor, the spark plugs and the coil pack were all replaced (possibly unnecessarily?) The injectors were also removed and serviced.
A surprise was the amount of "gunk" in the inlet ports and coated on the backs of the valves in the head. As much as possible of this was removed while it was exposed - it alone must surely have been affecting efficiency!

Anyway, job done. And it is running very nicely.

The next chapter has commenced already ...
The clutch dumped all of its fluid two blocks from home 

[bazzbazz]

A surprise was the amount of "gunk" in the inlet ports and coated on the backs of the valves in the head. As much as possible of this was removed while it was exposed - it alone must surely have been affecting efficiency!

That's pretty standard on almost all direct injection engines with a few kms on them. That's what the various brands of Upper Engine Cleaners are for.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/liqui-moly-liqui-moly-petrol-engine-intake-decarb---366g/348781.html

The next chapter has commenced already ...
The clutch dumped all of its fluid two blocks from home

Time to put ACE on suicide watch I reckon.   

[Citroënbender]

That's pretty standard on almost all direct injection engines with a few kms on them.

Walnut shell basting of Prince inlet tracts, anybody? 

To reiterate a question I had - the ECU is not one where driver transistors for the injectors or coils become faulty?

[Citroënbender]

Here's the schnizz:

[bazzbazz]

To reiterate a question I had - the ECU is not one where driver transistors for the injectors or coils become faulty?

No, The Engine ECU unit in the 159 2.2JTS is pretty reliable. Never known of one to have problems with the Driver FETs. (Field Effet Transistor)

[Maltalfisti]

I had P0013 and P0014 a while back. Got caught out in Horsham, but found an MB mechanic who cleared it and said something about the solenoid.

Seems to have been fairly smooth since (this was back in January). However, just yesterday the engine light comes on again.

The timing chain was done at 52,000 kms. It now has 73,000kms on the clock – I assume it would last longer than this?

So, solenoid or sensor perhaps?

[bazzbazz]

Solenoids.

P0016 is the usual code for the chains if I remember correctly.

[Maltalfisti]

Solenoids.

P0016 is the usual code for the chains if I remember correctly.

Thanks, I appreciate you putting my mind at ease!

[Ascari32]

MES reports:
"P2414 - Lambda sensor 1 upstream (plausibility)"
("Plausibility"? like it's having a bet each way ... ?)
"P2237 - Lambda 1 sensor upstream (current)"

Question 1:
Does "upstream" refer to one of the "pre-cat" sensors, rather than a "post-cat" sensor?

eLearn provides instructions for replacement of:
"Left Upper" Lambda sensor; also referred to as the "Lambda sensor on the pre-catalyser" ... Note no number;
"Right Upper" Lambda sensor; also referred to as the "Lambda sensor on the pre-catalyser-2" ... Note use of "2"

Question 2:
Does MES's "Lambda sensor 1 upstream" therefore relate to eLearn's "left upper"?

eLearn also has separate diagrams showing the location of the four sensors.
Sensor K015: the "left upper" Lambda sensor
Sensor K016: the "upper right" Lambda sensor
Sensor K017: the "left rear Lambda sensor ... on the catalytic converter"
Sensor K018: the "right rear Lambda sensor ... on the catalytic converter-2"
The use of "rear" seems to be a synonym for "post-cat".

These diagrams also show the location of the relevant connectors indicating that the "uppers" use a wide flat connector, whereas the "rears" use a compact "D" shaped connector.

The use of "left" & "right" coincides with the relevant location of the pairs of sensor connectors on the firewall. While this is useful, they may be named so for a different reason.

Given the above, it seems that I need to replace the unnumbered pre-cat Lambda sensor, I.e. the left upper which according to the diagrams should have a wide flat connector.
BUT!
All images I can find (on the web) of the pre-cat Lambda sensors suggest they they use the "D" shaped connector (which is what my parts supplier has delivered).

Question 3:
If Q1 & Q2 are both "yes", what did I miss?

I continue to have intermittent lambda failures myself, clearing, then re-appearing.

However, with my sports - cat, the leads - down stream lambdas are pretty short and need extending. But temporarily they are kept clear of the prop shaft with tie wraps.

Whilst trying to get my head around this and lambdas in general I did a fair bit of reading.

Now this may be old hat to some, but it states the outer sleeving, covering the lambda wiring must not become trapped/restricted. "Reference air/oxygen" is drawn into the Lambda via the sleeving and to restrict it will cause errors/failure.

This will be checked on Friday at the same time as the leads are extended.

[Maltalfisti]

I just went outside, hopped in the 159 and... it didn't want to start but the engine light sat glaring at me, so was the ABS system (brake seemed hard to push) and the airbag light too.

Key, both manually and the button, wouldn't lock the car (only the driver's door). Gave it a moment but nothing happened. No electronics would work, not push/start button registered etc.

Disconnected the negative battery terminal, and the positive, then reconnected them both and waited. Some interesting hums and buzzes coming through the dash as it reset itself, I gathered.

I'll give it another few minutes, then I'll try it again.

Meanwhile, any thoughts as to why this might have happened? Could the battery be low? Could it be it needs a longer drive? I haven't given it a longer freeway drive for over a month now, just putt-putting about the 'burbs which it was never used to after 70+ km commutes to and from work along a freeway. It was always happy then. Is this just a sign of protest against its new suburban lifestyle?

[bazzbazz]

If you have a multimeter check the voltage of the battery.

[Maltalfisti]

Thanks; I don't have but took it to Super Cheap Auto and they were able to test it for me.

Sure enough, the battery is flat. No, batteries aren't all that cheap but glad to know it's just an easy fix like this!