replacing rear brake pads alfetta gtv

[meizhak]

I have to replace the rear brake pads on my alfetta on the weekend. I will follow the worshop manual, but I also know there a pain in the @$*?! to do, so I was after any pointers handy hints or things to look out for.

Is it common for these calipers to sieze? I was replacing the flex hose on the rear and noticed that three out of the four pads were about 70% and that one was nearly on the backing plate.

Cheers Meizhak

[jimnielsen]

Its easy to replace the pads - the tricky bit is getting the adjustment of the pad clearance right using the "adjusters" that this system has because of the way the handbrake is integrated into the rear calipers. First - buy new pads. you will probably have to back off the adjusters to get the new pads to fit. Make sure you don't screw them out too far!!  If the pads have stick-on backing it can be simpler to remove this so that you don't have to create the maximum possible gap. Enjoy!

[meizhak]

Cheers Jim,

Ive got a spare transaxle assembly so I might practice on this first.

[greengtv8]

Once you've got all the pads in, you'll need to adjust the pads with the rear wheels off the ground, in neutral, and hand brake off. Make sure that the hand brake cable is backed off and not holding the inner pads on(back off the 10mm & 13mm cable lock nuts if they are, untill everything is loose). To get a good peddle and hand brake i recommend adjusting the outer pads first. Contantly(slowly)spinning the wheel while spinning the adjuster anti clockwise,until the wheel wont spin. Then back off adjuster approx. 1/4turn(till wheel free's up again), lock up the 17mm nut. Repeat for the other outer pad. Then move to the inner pads, again spinning the wheel while adjusting until it to locks the wheel. Back off until wheel spins again. This should give a good peddle. Last, adjust the cable back up until cable slack is gone from between the caliper arms. Arms should be fully out and future hand brake adjust should be done by adjusting all the pads...not the cable. Hand brake should come up approx. 4 clicks.
      If pads adjusted to loose, peddle will be low and handbrake will be high, if pads adjusted to tight, after a few Km's brakes will heat up and bind on. Forcing the car to stop on the side of the road until it all cools down.
      But all that said, once you've done it a couple of times, it's pretty straight forward.
              Have fun...and good luck.

[meizhak]

thanks greengtv8,

Thanks heaps for the tips, Ive never done rears before on an alfetta so should be quite interesting. Hopefully can get a hoist free at my workshop to do it on.

Cheers

[Sir Lancelot]

Let me know how you go. I couldn't manage it, tried it with no idea what I was doing. I figured out how everything worked, but couldn't get the adjustment correct. I was under the impression you need a special tool for the rear brakes?

[meizhak]

not sure about the special tool. Im going to do a dummy run on my spare trans tonight. Im hoping the calipers are ok.
because ive got three good brake pads and one that is nearly on the metal.my handbrake is quite high so im hoping that its just an adjustment problem

let you know how I go

meizhak

[Neil Choi]

The special tool is a 17mm socket, cut down a bit, with a handle welded onto it, greenGTV8 Andrew made it for me.

Neil

[meizhak]

gave it a go on my spare trans, figured out how it all worked. Going to try to get it done tomorrow night.

Let you know how i go alex

cheers

[jimnielsen]

I just use a cheap 17mm socket - cut in 1/2 using an angle grinder - then use a SMALL pair of vice grips to hold the socket - because you need to use the center hole for the allen key!

jimn~

[meizhak]

Finally managed to get rear pads done.

Got all the adjustments right, apart from the handbrake.Its alot better than it was but still comes up about 8 clicks.
I can only assume that maybe the cable  is a little stretched.

One of my mechanics had a stahwille ring spanner with quite a thin edge that fitted around the adjuster locknut.

Alex the only problem I encountered was r/h outer adjuster was siezed to locknut

[greengtv8]

To get the hand brake right, you must fully back off the handbrake cable(release the 10mm and 13mm nuts) above the right hand caliper. So that the cable is flopping about. These nut are only adjusted to take up stretch in the cable, not to adjust the handbrake! All four pads must be adjusted correctly(as mentioned further up the page) and then do up the nuts on the end of the cable in order to get a good handbrake. If pads are to tight, brakes'll lock up while driving, if to lose, peddle will be alittle low and handbrake will come up to high. The 13mm nut on the end of the cable should be done up with your fingers just until you see the arms connected to the cable(which operate the inner pads)just start to move. That's it...then lock up the 10mm and your done.
      Hope this helps, just yell if you need more info!

[greengtv8]

Oh....while it is possible for the cable to stretch...it's just not common for it to stretch that far that it runs out of adjustment...
      Well done all the same...it'll be easier next time!!!

[Sheldon McIntosh]

Thanks Greengtv8, all this advice is very handy. 

I've just got in from taking off my rear calipers (a story in itself) so they can be rebuilt, and while it wasn't too hard to get them off (time consuming though!) I'm dreading putting it all back together, but you make it sound so easy....

[meizhak]

thanks greengtv8,

I remove cable from calipers and did all my adjustments on calipers before refitting.I tightened cable till levers just started to move.

I might need to tighten pad adjustment a bit, was a bit cautious

Cheers