Project GTV6

[aggie57]

Yeah - I know the ones you mean.  I bought a pack on the weekend.  They're sitting in the box with my grinder - I'll see what they're called. 

Alister

[shane wescott]

pickies look awesome, thanks for sharing.

[martym00se72]

Jeez I hope I don't have to go to that amount of cutting... Thanks for the pics - excellent stuff.

[bt46]

Marty things would be more easy if we had a supply of replacement panels or even repair sections for alfetta GTV's. In the case of the red car in the pictures the quarter panels and rear panels where pretty rusty. I had the white quarter and rear panels from a car that had no rust. It made sense to change the entire panels where they are spot welded rather than weld in three or four repair sections. Its my opinion that if the panels where avaliable this is the way you would undertake a repair correctly.
The problem you have trying to patch up a 'bit of rust' in say a lower quarter panel is that if it has come through to the outside it will have certainly started effecting the inside. There is the outer skin that rusts (you can see in this case i replaced) however the subframe unfortunately suffers the same fate. If you wish to keep the car or undertake the repair properly you really need to remove the effected outside skin and repair the entire section with a replacement panel while repairing the sub frame otherwise in another 12 months you will have more surface rust and in time the sub frame will be destroyed. Of course you could just load the thing up with filler and take it to the track without fear of stoving it into the wall. You need to determine what you wish to do with the car because believe me after you spend the time restoring the body correctly you won't ever want to park the damn thing in a supermarket carpark. A patch up job is fine especially if you use the car a lot. Just bear in mind with an alfetta you will always be chasing rust every summer. That's just part of owning a GTV.

[MD]

Once you get all those panels together , it would be a good idea to blow some Tectyl 506 into all the box sections. It will stop any corrosion in its tracks and keep new sections rust free permanently.

[martym00se72]

OK - so now I am starting to think about this a bit more seriously, I suspect I may have a bit of work to do around the left side A pillar and a small patch near one of the front shock towers. Thankfully my doors are in fine form (although the pins are sagging so the doors don't shut entirely properly or nicely). What do people do for replacement steel - buy a donor car or form their own repair sections. If you make your own, what thickness and grade steel do you use? Anyone got a tip on welders - what should I look at? I am of the "if you are going to do it, do it well..." mentality.

When a mate of mine saw that I bought my Alfa he did say "Bucket list item ticked; own two Alfa's... they will be the same car." 
Marty

[MD]

To fix the hinges drill them out for Commodore pins. Have a chat with a panel shop first.

Italians make excellent small mig welders that you can use flux core wire. Makes a different weld to gassed units but it is just as strong. No bottle rentals. You can use gas with them too if you want. Buy a "look through" welder's mask so you see your work before the strike. Huge assest. Should be available for around $750 for both.

[aggie57]

To fix the hinges drill them out for Commodore pins. Have a chat with a panel shop first.

Italians make excellent small mig welders that you can use flux core wire. Makes a different weld to gassed units but it is just as strong. No bottle rentals. You can use gas with them too if you want. Buy a "look through" welder's mask so you see your work before the strike. Huge assest. Should be available for around $750 for both.

Is this the sort of thing you mean?:

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_120amp-weldcorp-mig-welder_469.aspx

[MD]

More or less although if Bunnings sells it, I personally wouldn't buy. I use a SIP Migmate Turbo 150 that I have had for many years. Have done all sorts of welding with it up to 6mm plate and it penetrates well. Also will do really thin stuff around 0.7-0.8mm thick so you can tack sheeting with it. I have used about 300metres of flux core wire through it. Built roll cages, repaired trailers and did all my panel work with it. Around the home or home workshop, I'd say its all you need

Only difference is, when I bought mine,they were $450.

The mask I use is made in Switzerland, Optrel Micra, which is made to European flash control standards. I don't trust Chinese masks to safeguard my eyes. I'm still using 'em. Up to you.

Mask type : http://victorsafety.com/optrel-mira-plus-welding-helmets-pr-581.html

Welder type :http://www.nationalwelding.com.au/150amps_to_200.htm

[aggie57]

Thanks - I've got to buy one soon so appreciate the recommendation.  Having seen my father burn his eyes with an arc welder years ago what say about masks makes perfect sense.  Thankfully he had no permanent damage.

[shane wescott]

Good stuff guys.

I have a mate with a mig/tig welder and I have an old arc. The welder you recommended is now on a wish list.

Went down and visited the guys at  http://www.xtox.com.au/  today.

They are specialists in the new water bourne paint technology which is mandatory in Europe. Nice guys, some beautiful paintwork and I will see if we can organise  a Tech Night there for the Club.

Hopefully make a start this weekend on some clean-up initial work.

Finally had a clogged plug Thursday on the way home from work so the Beast was telling me enough is enough of the city crap. Cleaned the plugs and a run down the highway and all is good again.

CAtch ya

Shane