Hi Guys
Just thought i would share my experience from a recent car key related event.
As you may have seen on other posts my keys were dropped on the road and run over by various trucks etc.
I found a vendor (keys4classics) who told me if i sent the number off the old key and a picky if possible, hoe would be able to cut a new one.
Well the good news is the key arrived today and it fits perfectly. :-) So i can now lock my dorrs and the hatch on the GTV6, just need to sort a new ignition key and work out how to break into the petrol lock :-(
Oh and of course I still have a steering lock to saw through :-)
So if you need more keys or have the number, keys4classics is a good option on ebay.
P.s. No graft or corruption or favours have been sold for this review, I haven't even been promised a beer, I am just a happy customer :-)
Catch ya
Shane
Yes, good point Shane a lot of people don't realise that the number is specific to their barell - they buy any old Alfa blank key it won't fit. GAH! :-[
shane
with the ignition key, if you pull the barrel out take it to a lock smith and they can cut a new key, thats what i had to do when i found that my daughter had thrown not 1 but 2 sets of keys in the bin on garbage day morning, was not a happy camper. pulled the barrel out and locksmith had a new key in about 1hrs
Great advice Dehne on the ignition key.
I think that will be the plan.
Ta Mate
hi Dehne or anyone else
the manual say there is a screw which hold the ignition lock inplace and this has it shead screwed off on installation.
Anyone know the location of this screw on a gtv6. just trying to get the ignition module out so i can get a new key made :-(
Thanks
hi shane
The screw head does shear off on install but the benifit is that the surround that is still there is soft so you can either use a screwdricer to get a slot in it or use a drill to get at it.will only take 30mins max to get it done.
On a GTV or 90 or 33 they are the same under done ignition switch, on the 33, the screw was at the bottom, to get it out, you may be able to Dremel a slot in the screw, so it can be turned anti clockwise with a screw driver, failing that, drill it out and use a ezy out or screw extracta, locksmiths can make new keys for ignition switches, door locks and fuel caps, on mine they used a wax impression to get the correct key profile, Colin.
As someone who has lost his AR keys several times, broken a few off in locks & had his 75 ignition lock fall apart outside Hughs' workshop, here is the easiest way that I have found for 75's ....& their derivatives. 30 minutes the first time, 15 minutes from then on.
The lock screw is tight, but not rediculously tight as the head break off torque is quite low. Remove the upper & lower shrouds, the top one slides out if you lower the wheel down. I use the corner of a small (10mm wide) cold chisel & 8oz ball pein hammer to cut an angular slot into the outer edge of the lock screw. The direction of attack is from the drivers side, behind the wheel & inward, ie the way it will undo. Once you have a decent mark, but not too much as it will lock the screw even more if you spread the head, then change to a small pin punch, or similar. Lodge it in the outer part of the slot & with a couple of good hits from a 16oz ball pein it's undone. Replace the screw with a socket head screw, 6mm D X 1.5mm pitch from memory & not longer than the original, else it will jam the lock. A slotted head screw is OK, but the socket head is easier to undo next time round. Use a lock washer under the head, or screwlock Loctite.
105s are similar except you take off the shroud, then the switches & access the screw heads from the side.
The same process applies for the classic Range Rovers, except the screw head is slightly proud & you can slot it with a mini hacksaw blade. No Range Rover owner jokes, thank you.
Have fun, Kim