I am planning to install an ignition switch relay but wonder if to improve lighting I should also install a light switch relay(s).
Looking at the wiring diagram I could install one relay for low beam circuit and another for high beam circuit.
Any experiences or thoughts ?
I'd say if you plan on using them, then absolutely!
I used the Daniel Stern diagram, and got my gear from Jaycar about $100, couple of hours to install, and no more smoking light stalk
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html)
Definately worthwhile. I have relays on the starter solenoid & wipers as well. The improvement in the wipers is significant.
Scuzzy & Bob, thanks for the input.
Have looked at Stern's relay diagram and have purchased most components required, now I just need to set aside time for the installation, including a good evaluation of the current wiring in / out of the fuse / relay box.
I installed a starter relay which worked very well and am installing relays for lights and wipers in the new re-build. Stern's document is very good! Thanks.
You could get away with one relay for the low beam, but two would be better for the high beam as you are switching four filaments altogether on high beam and that might be too much load for a single standard relay. Especially if you start putting in higher wattage globes.
AL.
I think this is waht you mean ...
http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=1464.0
and
http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=2928.0
Another lighting upgrade that I've done, was to get a set of the US spec headlight buckets and use some Hella semi-sealed 5 3/4 with integral park lamp. It's by no means a cheap option, but a good one IMHO. I haven't decided if i put some driving lights in the centre holes or use it for extra airflow yet...
Al, in your wiring loom you have a relay and a fuse per light (2 for low + 2 for high), is that correct ?
Where did you purchase the 4 relay mounting block and multiple fuse holder ?
Jaycar sells fused relays which could be useful.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4077&keywords=relay&form=KEYWORD (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4077&keywords=relay&form=KEYWORD)
Thanks Neil. Saw those, all I now need is a mounting block.
I am looking too, I just asked someone I know who works at Jaycar, so I could have an answer later. Also can get the bits at less than the retail price. Let me know if need any.
Hopefully Al has the answer too.
Morning Neil. By my calculations a 20A relay will do to power both highbeams together (100W x 2) and a 10A for the lowbeams (60W x 2); I will use 4mm2 wire for + and -.
This AM I will go to Repco, Burson, Supercheap and Jarcar and see if they can provide a waterproof relay / fuse mounting block; I intend locating the lot in the engine bay behind the passenger-side headlights, close to the alternator.
Hi All,
You will need to use 2 x 20A relays, Watts/Volt = Amps on a DC system, therefore 100w x2 is 16.6 amps, 60w X 2 is 10amps, so you are running right on the upper limit of a 10amp relay, it is good practice not to do this, as things that run at their design limit tend to fail more often. You also would be better off to use +50's 55w low beams bulbs, they output 50% more light then a standard halogen with less heat (more light, longer life).
QuoteYou could get away with one relay for the low beam, but two would be better for the high beam as you are switching four filaments altogether on high beam and that might be too much load for a single standard relay.
If your wiring is done right correct you should not be running the 4 lights through the one relay, the low beams should always be switched through the low beam relay. 4mm 100amp wire should be fine, but make sure everything is fused, from battery to relays, and then from relay to each light, this means if one fuse blows due to a fault you only loose one light, unless the fault is at the relay, soldered terminals tend to be better for higher current draw, but you can use crimp terminals, but make sure there crimped well, once you have finished your wiring let everything running for about 1/2 an hour, then feel all connections for heat build-up, if any are warm then redo them.
The other trick with the low beams on a GTV is to very carefully remove the low beam shield from the light, it is crimped in, and cut the top 1/4 off the refit it, this allows more light to reflect off the top half of the light creating a brighter low beam, for some reason Italian cars right up to the mid 80's had low beam shields that where designed for use in war time that were far more enclosed them other countries (due to a fear of being bombed by B17's). This also has the added befit of reducing heat at the bulb, so longer bulb life.
When I did relay upgrades for my Giulietta years ago, I also added a single pole double throw (SPDT) relay in the switch wiring to switch off the low beam when the high beam was switched on. It's probably not a major improvement, but if your alternator is struggling with ignition system, interior fan, AC clutch and fan, stereo and the other night time lights, reducing current draw by 7-10 amps is a plus.
I did a relay upgrade years ago on the 33, did one side first, the relayed side was white, the unrelayed side was yellow, i used 4mm wires going to the lights, if my memory serves me correct, and just use the standard wattage globes, as the higher than standard wattage gets too hot and burns everything and melts connectors and discolours reflectors, Colin.
Kartone,
The relay sockets are actually individual sockets that clip/slide together, I then bolted them to a simple tin bracket that mounts on the engine bay/wheel arch above the coil (LHS) with a couple of self tappers. The fuse socket is a four blade fuse socket.
Got the parts from Super-cheap, but can get them at just about any auto parts store, the price adds up so watch out for a sale.
I've used relays with integral fuses in the past, but found on high wattage globes that the fuse holder melts. High power high beam globes are exactly the sort of thing that will push these things to the limit.
Yes it is one relay per light, sort of. The light switch has four outputs, so each one drives a relay. But on the globe side I used dual filament low/high inserts, so there is actually four high beam filaments in total. Therefore each high beam relay supplies both a high beam only globe and the high beam filament in a dual function globe. No relays for the parking light globes. Is that confusing enough?
That pictured set-up is designed to plug into the existing harness, basically using the existing supply to the globes to trigger the relays. No need to cut any wires. I did pull the existing spade terminals out of the plastic sockets and slide them into new ones. Picks up the power from a wire down to the alternator output. Dual filament High/low beams and tar bubbler 100w high beams. Quiet frankly that's actually too bright in my dotage. I reckon for months after I did the conversion I'd laugh every time I turned on high beam.
AL.
Al, pardon my ignorance, dual filament low beams and tar bubbler 100w high beams ?
Can these bulbs be fitted into standard Carellos ?
Kartone,
Sorry, I've just rabbited on. The Corellos take H1 single filament bulbs. Low beams in the outer and high in the inners.
I'd done the conversion where you cut open the old Corellos and glue a new semi-sealed inserts in the old reflector shells. For the outer lights, I used inserts which take H3 globes – dual filament high/low beams, probably ADR says you use 60/55W globes, although you can buy 100/55 (55 watt low beam & 100W high beam). I used single H1 inserts for the high beam headlights, with 100W globes. In your existing Corellos you could use a pair of H1 60W low beams and if you can find them a pair H1 130W high beam globes. But if you try that without relays you'll burn out your expensive ALFA steering column switch. I think ADR also says if you've got 4 headlights, than you should only have a single filament in each, plus 5w parkers.
Hence 4 relays, on high beam I'm supplying power to four high beam filaments, potentially 460 Watts.
AL.
Quote from: Al Campbell on September 27, 2011, 12:41:00 PM
probably ADR says you use 60/55W globes,
ADR's only regulate positioning, effective range and light colour for low and high beam lights. Parkers, tail, markers generally do have a max of 7 watts (usually 5 watts) and day running lights, fog lights have max wattage in the 20s. Depending on build date, this will dictate which ADR's are relevant for your vehicle (ie '69 - '89, 2nd Ed ADR and '89 on 3rd Ed ADRs).
Here's NSW lighting standard attached and ADRs hyperlink...
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/motor/design/index.aspx (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/motor/design/index.aspx)
Oh yeah, definately go with relays were ever you can. Having researched the wiring on my Alfetta rebuild, the wiring schematics for the '76 really was prehistoric compared to current or even 2000 and on vehicle wiring and electrics.
PS... I could have it all wrong about the wattage limits on headlights for pre '89 vehicles?? Last time I looked I had difficulty locating a standard for it as I'm toying with the idea of HID lighting on my Alfetta and its doesn't seem logical that I could concievably instal anti aircraft spotting lumination as long as I have them in the correct position. There is an indication that the headlamp isn't to glare or blind oncoming vehicles, but that seems to be an objective standard.
PSS... HELLA and other reputable brands have installation instructions for headlamps aswell involving relays which boulsters the info already supplied above. Personally I'd avoid relays with inbuilt fuses, the fuse should be as close to the power sorce as possible and if had and seen the all in one relays melt away - especially in high power usage set ups (though I have a feeling the relays I've seen weren't up to the power rating required)