OK, the mud map is pretty ugly, but the critical dimensions are there for any aspiring machinists to knock up their own ;D.
All dimensions are in mm.
Note that some dimensions are dependent on the size of the retaining circlip.
There are 2 of the top photo needed to do the job, and ignore the 9mm dimension as I changed mid way.
Bearing: SKF GEH 25 ES-2RS
excellent! i planned to giving this a go oneday, iv got a fair few dions laying around...
Here's my take on what the 'mud maps' and bearing measurements gave me. Note I'm yet to buy a bearing so made a dummy to assemble it... Not sure why, but the bearing sits offset from the centre of the sleeve. Maybe because the measurements intend to use the original washer that comes with rubber bushes? I dont believe my polly bush had a washer? Been too long, I'll get under the car and have a look soon...
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s403x403/996950_10151614665622109_880262107_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1383159_10151614669662109_2095553919_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1382867_10151614669927109_499607475_n.jpg)
Awesome!
That's the beauty of great machining! 8)
As per my PM to Jazig, from memory the bearing is offset so that when everything is put together, the end of the DeDion sits in the middle of the cross member. This was to make sure there is equal articulation for bump and droop without the arms of the DeDion frame binding on the cross member.
I tried mine with the Watt's linkage and shocks attached but no springs and it could go into more than enough bump travel (no bump stops at the back of my car for some reason) and would hang on the shocks no worries. So definitely no binding with full movement of the rear suspension.
Thanks, but it's all in the CNC! And thanks to your 'dodgy mud maps' haha, credit to you!
Yep, I held mine up to the cross member and that makes sense now.
The cross member is 'double thick' on the bottom. Offset makes sense. Except my cross member seems bent or squished 1~2mm... I never had the washer/spacer on the poly bush, so I take it its ment to be there even with the poly bush, otherwise it only has about 3~4mm of poly top & bottom of the bush between the dion and cross member. Regardless, the bearing assembly shouldn't need the spacer.
Duk suggested boots... http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=128
When I go to the bearing place I'll see if I can get these locally.
Also, I'm thinking of drilling lube holes and machining lube grooves. Would require drilling the dion and knocking a grease nipple into it too.
Fantastic looking results. 8)
I am going to fit rubber boots over all the rose joints/rod ends being used (front ARB 'drop links' and Watt's linkage), so rubber boots/seals for the spherical bearing would be a nice addition.
:)
More pictures, more parts, more changes... Finally got bearings, made some new sleeves up with grease grooves and holes. Pressed it all together.
I have enough bits to make up 3 'kits' [I have 3 cars.]
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1391964_10151633518017109_1321368775_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1396033_10151633518147109_959823185_n.jpg)
Nice work mate! Let us know how they go once you've fitted one.
:)
Stupid question but is this the bearing that is used for the watts linkages ?
No, front of the Dion triangle, inside the cross member that the gearbox mounts are on. It's usually a rubber bush that the whole thing pivots on.
Awesome work!
If you decide to make more to sell I will be interested before I fit a new poly bush into it.
After I fit one and run it for a while I'll look at making more. I made a 'grease cage' today, just another sleeve that the unit drops into with a grease nipple on the OD so I can pack them quick and easy.