Hi Alfisti,
I've just replaced the cam belts on my 33.
I reckon relocating the spring in the RHS cam belt tensioner arm (see pic attached) is just a might tricky for the home mechanic (garagiste!). There might be a special tool or maybe there's a secret method - but several hours and many different methods on the one task was frustrating, to say the least.
And some wonder why the professionals charge a lot - well they probably earn it.
Last time I did it I had the motor out and it was tricky.
This time the engine was in place - you cant see what you are doing and you really dont have much in the way of room, especially when you are trying to squeeeze in two fists, three different tools, the loose spring, assorted washers and a nut (not the operator !) while you hold the arm in place.
Anyway, 'tis done, but not without leaving the odd bit of skin behind.
So what's your most challenging task ...
Ciao,
Peter.
On the 116 series for me the number one pain is the prop shaft removal followed by the removal of the pedal box and any of its related parts. Not that it cannot be done more easily with appropriate tools/facilities but at home they would be it.
Hey MD,
Have not had to do that on either of my 116s yet (well haven't had to on one and haven't bothered on the other!) but not looking forward to it. There has been a bit of advice in other threads lately on this issue - so it shouldn't be too much trouble ... ?
Doing the Watts link bushes at present - but seems I need a press now!
I want to replace the rear brake calipers in the GTV6 soon, (before 2010 event in Vic?) - not looking forward to that either.
Compared to the 33 cam tensioners though, these should be a breeeze !
ciao
I hate this job so much that I have gone to the trouble of modyfing the prop shafts on my transaxles to eliminate the last two donuts. This provides for a degree of slide in the assembly so you dont have to drop the cross member on the transaxle to remove the shaft. Of course there are other benefits...
The upside to personal effort in the maintenance of our cars is the development of respect for the machinery and a sense of satisfaction when you get it right. It's easier to sign the cheque but it's not the same buzz.
I have never owned a 33 but I can readily sympathise with what you are saying.
I take my hat off to u guys,i wish i had the talent for these tough jobs-my friend mechanic changed the belt and tensioner on the 166,he virtually had to take the top of the engine,i can tell u it was tight in there.rgrds
Replacing the handbrake cable on an Alfasud Sprint 'aint a whole bunch of fun. I'm sure there are tricks which make it easier but I never found them.
I suspect the next job will not be fun on the 105...
Replacing the tacho... dash out etc.
The 116 prop shafts weren't fun until you got the knack. I got it down to a couple of hours to drop the box out, after the 4th time.
Cheers,
AP
Rear main seal on a 105.
The question is, do you take the gearbox out and leave the engine in or remove the lot....which is typically easier when removing a 105 g/box. A lot of effort for one little rubber seal.
With out a doubt.....changing the heater tap on a 75.....
Apparently (as I found out later) ....I did it the hard way....I didn't remove the dash!
Worst thing I have ever done on an Alfa...... (rather do a head gasket!).
Cheers.
Not sure i agree the heater tap being all that bad on a 75? I'm not saying it's any fun, but i was hugely relieved when i found out i didn't have to do the heater core. Taking the dash out would surely take MUCH longer? i just removed the driver's seat and lay on my back to get to it. A good torch or light is a must though.
Progressive results of the straw poll (in chronological order not degree of difficulty):
1. 33: RHS cam belt tensioner (but I have an idea for a tool for next time ...);
2. 116: prop shaft (I hate this job so much that I ... modify the prop shafts ...);
3. 116: pedal box (and any of its related parts);
4. Alfasud Sprint: handbrake cable;
5. 105: tacho (... dash out etc);
6. 105: Rear main seal (do you take the gearbox out and leave the engine in or remove the lot...);
7. 75: heater tap (... rather do a head gasket!);
If these are the only jobs we dont like across the whole range of Alfas - we must all love our cars! ;D
And as MD said, there is satisfaction in doing the job yourself - and doing it well too.
Mat,
I seem to remember lying on my side....with my right arm taking a path along the accelerator pedal....above / across the steering column
to get to the 2 bolts. One was easy.... the other (either top or closest to the firewall) needed a 90 degree bend in the spanner to get to it.
Then the undoing & tightening of the bolts seemed to take ages as there wasn't much room/angle to get a decent rotation.
When I asked spoke to the experts about it...I think they intimated that some of the console / dash is removed to get at it....
Still a horrible job!
Cheers.
replacing the nut on the alfa 90 that joins the gear selector to the box (the little swivel part) whilst still in car and to get it tight. did not want to pull the box out the cure was cut a hole in the floor easy access and not only did it fix the problem of not being able to select any gears but the shift is now really tight with hardly any movement in it
steering rack on 116 gtv with race extractors still in place (the ones that go between rack and footwell straight over the mounting bolts)
Replacing 30 year old wires so that it all worked, without letting out any of the smoke contained within them. I think Italian and English auto sparkies jobshared on this one.
Hi Guys, I only have 116 GT experience & have done driveshaft donuts a few times. I manage without disconnecting anything else but it is a struggle! Maybe being a bush mechanic helps ;)
My vote though goes to removing the clutch slave cylinder without letting anything else loose, it is virtually impossible to get a spanner on one bolt head. I managed this once but the next time cut a hole in the floor to gain access!
Pretty much exactly how i remember the heater tap, with the exception of re installation. Didn't use another alfa one, as i figured it would probably break again soon anyway being so old. Made a joiner that bolts to the heater core, then relocated a generic tap into the engine bay. The joiner was much smaller than the original tap, allowed for a bit more room to work with. Better description in the 160 series board somewhere.