Hi Guys
Some advice please.
Jumped in the Mighty GTV6 last week and noticed the clutch felt "different". Over night some of the play was gone and it was engaging quite close to the floor.
I left it alone for the rest of the week hoping the responsible gremlin would jump onto a passing Holden on Bell street, but this morning when I tried to drive to work the clutch was even worse.
So I limped around the corner and back home :-(
So question to the Alfa Brains Trust, does this sound like hydralics, or pressure plate failure. I haven't had a look yet but I suspect I may be putting my brass ones at risk tonight, with a torch, looking for anything obvious.
If it is the clutch pressure plate, is this a massive job or just drop the shaft, coupla bolts and shesa right mate.
Catch ya
Shane
Nah, nothing hard about it really, especially seeing as you have previously done the gearbox mounts i believe?
The only extra bits that come to mind are undoing the clutch line at the join (so either way you're going to have to bleed the clutch) and maybe the speedo cable? dunno where it is on the 75.
Then you need to jack up the rear of the Di Dion tube, which will lower the front of the gearbox. You will need to make up something to jam in between where it bolts to the floor pan. I use the blocksawood. They have to be big enough to allow you to slide the clutch between the floor and the cross member.
Take off your new gearbox mounts.
Now undo the 4 or 5 bolts holding the clutch to the gearbox.
You will have to slide it off at sort of an angle, little bit of a wrestle first time i reckon. Try not to drop it onto your chest, its not the greatest feeling in the world.
Install in reverse and incorporate any steps i've missed. Easy.
Thanks Mick, that's why you're the paid mechanic and i have a bunch of half fixed cars.
I actually didn't read half of it- i assumed it was for the TS. even then i still woulda been miles off. At least my ramblings prompted someone to explain the right way to do it.
Once the clutch is out i handball it off to dad. He's got the necessary tools and know how. I stand there pretending i know what's going on. But you're right, if he wasn't around to do it i'd also be taking it to a specialist.
Check 2 easy things first:
Clutch slave ... remove boot around slave and if it's wet, then you've got a leaking clutch slave.
Also check the position of the clutch slave...mine moved out of its housing one time and caused similar results.
Thanks Guys.
I had a look around the master last night and nothing obvious. No obvious lack of fluid in the shared clutch/brake reservoir, so it is off to the backyard for a Sunday assessment.
Sounds like a slave would be easy. So fingers and other crossable body parts are in a holding pattern until Sunday :-)
CAtch ya
Shane
i had same type of problem with my 90 i drove it everyday then for no realreason the clutch ran away i was lucky though it was only the slave it got dirt and shit in it and sort of jamed i just pulled it out and cleaned the crap out and put it backand off i went lets hope its the same for you
update.
Slave not moving more than a couple of mm when clutch pushed so the assumption is I have a hydralic issue :-)
Pulled the slave off today, very old and dogy looking main sale, so will do a new seal/kit/new slave and see how i go.
Al least some progress today :-)
further update apparently GTV6 clutch slave cylinders are no longer around so the current fix is to use a 105 slave unit.
has anyone done this and does it just slot in no probs.
If i use a 105 spare in my GTV6 does it make it 1% more classy, and will the clutch but just a little bit better because part of it comes from the awesome 105 series :-)
update.
while in the UK i bought a new 105 slave for the GTV6 - total price 32 pounds around 65 bucks or so :-)
Parts seem quite cheap over there.
Should have it in by the weekend :-)
CAtch ya
Shane
Bugger needed the master kit as well :-)
So ordered one, raced home tonight (it's great with daylight savings now )
Out into the car to tackle the Master Clutch - the GTV6 one is the one without it's own reservoir.
Loosened the clutch hydralic line - nice and easy.
Hung upside down torch in the face - glasses on and catching bits of whatever falls on my face :-)
After a couple of minutes I get the split pin and bolt out - not bad only 20 minutes spent so far.
Next just have to get these two bolts out - OH NO - :-( That mongrel engineer has done it again - lets check them off:
1. Limited light to see what is going on - check
2. Heaps of other parts of the car disrupting any access to bolts - check
3. Fragile electrical wiring in the region so new "Electrical Personality" traits may appear - Check
4. One of the botls visible, but the other one totally hidden from view - check
I know just to make it interesting - lets make the bolts 6mm Allen Key Bolts - you mongrel :-(
Seriously would it have killed them to make these standard bolts I have any number of attachments for sockets that would have made the job a snap - but no - it has to be Allen keys.
So out with the trusty 6mm hex key which has spent many a weekend removing drive shafts from 33's and disks off a 75.
Clearly this has taken it's toll as it is now sort of burred :-( Long and short of it is I need a new one so off to Bursons/Repco at some stage.
to be continued ...
Shane, I'm on the edge of my seat, and all i get is "to be continued". You could at least go out to the car and re face your 6mm allen key by taking the front seat off the runners 2 or 3 times. I'll keep posted.
Keep up the goood work. It is truly amazing as to what you can turn into a great yarn.
Cheers
Gully
Quote from: Paul Gulliver on November 04, 2009, 10:50:55 PM
You could at least go out to the car and re face your 6mm allen key by taking the front seat off the runners 2 or 3 times. I'll keep posted.
Keep up the goood work. It is truly amazing as to what you can turn into a great yarn.
Ha ha, that's good to hear, I thought it was just me and Ironsides that had issues with 6mm allan keys.
And agreed, excellent stuff Shane, I think I need to get you doing a regular column in the magazine.
Hey Shane,
Tools at Repco are currently between 70-80% off RRP. Your Allen key problems are Karma's way of telling you to buy more tools!
RL
An Update.....
Thursday found 5 mins to buy a 6mm allen key to 10mm socket adapter :-) even looked like it would do the job.
So Sat morning up bright eyed and bushy tailed. Due to the lack of hand space tried to convince the Spider Monkey to give me some help - no go - apparently primates dont work weekends :-( so i pointed my middle finger at the roof to show him something.
Taking the suggestions pulled out a long 1/2 in extension and a 10mm socket, bashed it on, turned it and easy stuff bottom bolt out. Top one is a different kettle of fish. Eventually manged to get a 3/8 drive socket, two extensions, onto a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and then the long extension, gave it a bash, out it came. I did have the bottom half of the steering column cover off, couldnt get the top half off but there was enough room to push the long extension through next to it.
I made the call to leave this in position as I figured it would be a bugger to get this arrangement back on the bolt so just leave it.
After a small fight with the "foot" which connects to the pedal all was out. Probably a good idea to remove the foot/spring assembly first, but me being me i always find the most difficult ass about way.
Just cleaning, fitting new seals and putting it back in left. Hopefully a tomorrow job :-)
to be continued...
Sheldon,
Happy to do a regular column - Ramblings of the Mechanically Challenged or something like that :-)
QuoteRamblings of the Mechanically Challenged
Shane,
Chapter one could be a step by step analysis of those famous last words " ...I Can DEFINATELY do that myself!".
Then you could move on to the sections what happened, how it happened and who is going to fix it for me now.
This by the way is coming from some one who has got the mechanical skills of Mr ED ( Oh Wilbur !!!).
Cheers
Gully
Hi Shane,
From memory my favourite method of removal is to take the plastic covers off the steering wheel and remove the pinch bolt that tightens the height adjustment so the steering column hangs down,I then use a very long extension bar with a 6mm allen key in a socket to remove the socket head screws.Since you have already removed the clevis pin from the pedal it should come out.I have a suggested modification which I do to my cars to make it easy next time and that is to tap the holes in the pedal box to take an m8x1.25 hellicoil so that you can screw two socket head screws or bolts through from the inside such that you have enough sticking out of the pedal box to put the master back on with nuts from the engine bay.You will of course have to drill out the thread in the master itself for this,the only hard part is then putting back the spring and clevis pin in the pedal and dont forget that in my experience the master actuating shaft length is adjustable to increase or decrease pedal travel,some times you may want to adjust it just to get the take up point where you want it when everything else is correct.
Cheers
Andrew
The Beast Lives :-)
Finally got it all back together, all went in rather easy although unfortunately the rubber boot slipped off the operting shaft which means the pedal tends to hang out abit but it does work and it is driveable.
One of the things i noticed before bleeding everything is that the pickup for the clutch fluid is almost right on the line for Minimum on the brake reservoir, so I wonder if this was low in the first place :-(
Anyway I have had fun and an interesting time changing the slave and putting in a master clutch kit.
I like the idea of dropping the steerign shaft right down - maybe next time.
The beast will be at Spettacollo tomorrow, wont win any awards but it looks nice and clean and sounds as good as always :-)
Wash Up.
So what did I learn during this process:
1. Always check your brake fluid first, it needs to be around the max level to be sure to be sure (not sure if this was my original issue or not but now I have some new bits in the clutch system )
2. The Clutch slave on a GTV6 is the same as the ones on a 105, just swap over the operating shaft.
3. Repair kits don't appear to be available for the Clutch Slave.
4. You can buy good quality parts from overseas - the UK is good value at the minute so Alfaholics and Highwood Alfa can be good sources of parts.
5. Hire a spider money (hopefully one who works on the weekend) to remove the Clutch Master cylinder. At the end of the job my hands looked like I had been hunting blackberries all weekend :-(
6. Buy a nice new 6mm allen key to 10MM socket adapter (around $5) this will ensure you dont burr off the allen key bolts. Give it a bash and use a long extension to make sure you get a firm connection.
7. Remove the plastic cover around the steering shaft, and potentially take off the bracket so the shaft can drop down and give more access. I didnt do the bracket bit but it makes sense.
8. Be careful with the plastic pipe in the top of the Master it is likely to be brittle.
9. when reassembling the master with a new kit use a little bit of water based lube on the new seals to make sure the cylinder can freely move up and down - luckily i keep a good supply in the bedroom.
10. When I loosened the top 6mm Allen key I just left the extension and everything with the bolt still in the hole as it looked like a pig to get back in.
11. I invested in a good quality set of circlip[ pliers many years ago - they are worth their weight in gold and turn a dangerous time consuming job into a snap :-)
12. There is a rubber boot which fits on the head of the master cylinder. The operating shaft fits on the end of this. Once you connect the operating shaft back onto the pedal - dont pull the pedal out :-( The shaft comes out of the rubber boot, your pedal sticks out so far you have to disconnect your hip to push the pedal back down and its an absolute pig to get back on without going through the whole removal process again :-( I'll try for another few hours and then I will just say stuff it and pull the whole thing out again :-(
13. When you put the pin back through the pedal push the pin through from the driver door side so you can actually see the hole for the split pin and this also gives you a little bit more room for the job.
14. Be patient when you bleed the system and have a friend who is happy to push the pedal many times :-)
Thats it.
Tomorrow I am under the bonnet again. I had to go to Echuca this week, I was in the process of putting the Beast in the backyard as we were going in the Rav4.
Clearly the GTV6 didnt approve of this because when I kicked it over and turned on the lights it decided to blow a main fuse and wouldn't start :-(
The message I get form this is "Stuff you mate, if you dont want to drive me to Echuca you can bloody well push me into the backyard" - which my son and i did :-(
It's all about the personality of the car :-)
Catch ya
Shane
Shane