Hi all, nice to be posting on the forum again!
I'm struggling with a no start on my 2.5 L-Jet 75. The car has sat for 4-5 years and we've just done a timing belt. The car ran fine when it was parked. The car cranks well and sounds like it starts to catch while it's cranking, but never catches and dies as soon as the key is returned to the run position
If you have any ideas I'd love to hear them, here's what we've done so far:
- Timing belt and tensioner bearing replaced
- New coolant, engine oil and filter
- New plenum couplers
- Pump all old fuel out of tank using fuel pump, replace with fresh fuel (at least fresh a month or two ago).
- Added a bottle of fuel system cleaner to the tank
- Replace all rubber fuel hose in engine bay
- Check fuel pressure, before and during cranking and it shows nearly 40psi consistently. Measured by taking the cold start injector hose off and connecting it to a gauge
- Check voltage at fuel pump while cranking, sits at about 9 volts, and only has a little more before you start cranking, but the pressure is ok, so I don't think this is it (?)
- Confirm 12v at coil with ignition on
- Check ignition timing with a light. It could be advanced a few degrees for best running but it's close enough for starting
- Recheck cam timing, still good
- Apply 12v directly to the 4 of the 6 injectors, and they click
- The exhaust pipe smells like fuel after cranking
What we haven't done
- Pulled a spark plug or two to see if they're wet
- Put 12v on the cold start injector. But would this stop it starting if it's not too cold?
I'm leaning towards fuel considering we have spark according to the timing light, but we also seem to have fuel so we're a bit stumped
Any ideas gladly received
Thanks, Scott
Gday Scotty, have you checked the distrutor contacts and or rotor button ? Check those to see if they are corroded or worn, and check some of the leads going into the dissy as they can corrod too
Triple check EVERY engine earth/ground. Including the flat braided earth strap that grounds the inlet plenum to the rocker cover.
Also check the airflow sensor "flap" is not sticking. It MUST move very easily so as to detect the relatively low airflow during the engine start process.
If the flap is sticky (a possibility if the car has sat for 4-5 years) the pump contact will not close, and the fuel pump will lose 12V as soon as the key is returned to the run position.
Also check the condition and operation of the Bosch "double relay".
Colin.
Thanks for the replies. We got it running. In the end Dad put some new plugs in it, and it ran on 4 or 5. So I put 12v directly to the last two injectors and now it's running pretty well. The timing belt is a bit tight and it's a bit whiny so that the next thing to fix!
Thanks again,
Scott
Glad to hear its sorted and no serious issues.
Hope you changed the tensioner and water pump when you did the belt?
A couple of tins of Liqui Moly injector cleaner wouldn't hurt?
Tensioner yes, but the water pump felt ok so hopefully it lasts a while.
Actually blocked off the oil feed to the tensioner, but replaced the idler pulley/bearing.
Some injector cleaner certainly couldn't hurt!