One of my annoyances has always been that the electric window switches are not illuminated. At night time you have to fumble in the dark to find them. The US 1986 model had illuminated switches but they looked quite different to the originals and I wanted it to look more like the original. I finally found some! Installed they look and work well. If I was picky, I would prefer they had two leds per switch instead of one as you can see where the led is rather than it being uniform but at least I can easily see them in the dark now!
I bought them from this site;
https://aus.grandado.com/products/1pcs-universal-5pin-car-electric-window-switch-power-window-switch-for-all-autos-with-green-led-light-car-button-switch-12v-24v
They are designed for 5 pin wiring so check if your car has 4 or 5 pin wiring. Altering it is quite simple - the fifth wire is a second earth wire (1:window up, 2:earth, 3:power 12+, 4:earth, 5:window down). I had already altered my wiring when I installed the electric windows so it was plug and play for me.
Nice upgrade Julian! Will have to consider that once my power windows are installed and I can confirm my wiring situation. I have seen the switches relocated to either end of the row, perhaps to help finding them in the dark.
Thanks Julian,
It has been something that has annoyed me for a long time too. Just ordered a few sets for my GTVs.
Cheers :)
Quote from: GTVeloce on June 23, 2022, 11:24:46 AM
One of my annoyances has always been that the electric window switches are not illuminated. At night time you have to fumble in the dark to find them. The US 1986 model had illuminated switches but they looked quite different to the originals and I wanted it to look more like the original. I finally found some! Installed they look and work well. If I was picky, I would prefer they had two leds per switch instead of one as you can see where the led is rather than it being uniform but at least I can easily see them in the dark now!
I bought them from this site;
https://aus.grandado.com/products/1pcs-universal-5pin-car-electric-window-switch-power-window-switch-for-all-autos-with-green-led-light-car-button-switch-12v-24v
They are designed for 5 pin wiring so check if your car has 4 or 5 pin wiring. Altering it is quite simple - the fifth wire is a second earth wire (1:window up, 2:earth, 3:power 12+, 4:earth, 5:window down). I had already altered my wiring when I installed the electric windows so it was plug and play for me.
Quick update: my drivers window didn't want to go up the other day. Swapped out the nice illuminated switch for the original and it works again.
-1 for the new switch. Just as well they were cheap! When I get a chance I will open up the switch and try and see what has gone wrong.
Bummer! Was going to grab a couple myself.
I'm still quite happy with them generally. This failure may have been a one-off. But given they are less than $20 maybe buy 3!
I bought four...just in case. Made sense to use these illuminated switches given one of my original power window switch connectors had been cut off anyway. Just waintng for the 5-wire pigtails to arrive so I can hook them up to the existing loom.
An update on the generic illuminated power window switches bought from the grandado.com website and available from other sites like Amazon and eBay. Quality seems to be an issue as both of GTVeloce's switches failed within 12 months. I bought four in preparation for my power window conversion and they are all faulty.
OKP sell the standard and illuminated switches for abour $60AUD each but shipping is a whopping 75 euro! l also found a slightly cheaper and what looks to be a higher quality OEM alternative from Autoloc rated to 20A and with a lifetime warranty for $30AUD. Might give them a go.
https://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Power-Window-Kits/Power-Window-Switches/AUTSW2/5-Pin-12V-Power-Car-Window-Door-Lock-Rocker-Switch-Green-LED-Illuminated-Arrows
Yeah, as Anth73 said, both of mine failed in under a year so I'm back to using the originals. However, I'm thinking it may have been they were not designed for the current that runs through the switches in the standard wiring setup. The autoloc ones are rated to 20amps which could be the difference.
Also, rewiring the windows with relays should reduce the load on the switches.