Quick question. All indicators on my '99 156 have just stopped working. Not even making a sound. So is it likely fuse, or maybe a relay?
Hi Poohbah
Sounds like it could be the flasher relay, but just check your fuse first. If it turns out to be the relay you should be able to purchase through your local Alfa service centre or via e-bay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Warning-Turn-Signal-Flasher-Relay-for-Alfa-Romeo-156-Opel-Astra-Corsa-Tigra-/272570276362?hash=item3f76745a0a:g:qPsAAOSwr~lYq-fO
thanks Bonno
BTW - where is the flasher relay located? And are there any pitfalls to watch out for when changing?
If your cabin fuse panel looks like that from a 147 then the flashers and hazards are controlled by the body computer and there is no external, serviceable relay.
Have you checked fuse "53" under the dash, if the above applies?
Quote from: Citroënbender on September 02, 2017, 10:32:00 PM
If your cabin fuse panel looks like that from a 147 then the flashers and hazards are controlled by the body computer and there is no external, serviceable relay.
Have you checked fuse "53" under the dash, if the above applies?
Doesn't apply. 156 electrics for the most part vastly different to 147, no body computer. Not a lot really interchanges between 156/147 outside of the basic mechanicals - engine, gearbox and suspension, and even some parts of those don't, depending on year.
You'll need to remove the steering wheel to change the relay. It's located under the column switch.
Cheers.
Mick.
QuoteYou'll need to remove the steering wheel
You're kidding? Just to change a bloody relay?
Haven't had a chance to have a look at anything yet, as it failed tonight, but will in the morning - hope its just the fuse.
You gotta love Italian electrics.
Checked the fuse - all fine. Regardless, I swapped over a new one, and indicators still not working.
So I pulled the bottom steering wheel column cover off, and discovered (assuming its the square blue relay attached directly to the back of the indicator switches) you can access the relay without removing the steering wheel.
For the sake of it, before removing it I decided to test the indicators again with the column cover removed.
And guess what? They are now working just fine...
Refitted the cover and still all good. Seems poking around was enough to get them going again. But at least now I know where the relay is located if it goes again and needs replacement.
Just to hearten you, my Aussie made ute has this morning been - once again - returned to base on a tilt tray (AC compressor bearing seized, tore the serpentine belt). So all the nonsense about Italian mechanical fallibility is just that - nonsense.
If it's the square box type flasher unit, I have had the Bitron brand ones fail on two occasions from slight overheating and resultant dry joints inside. Towing plus hazards on (loading the trailer) had evidently exceeded the working threshold without popping the fuse. My field repair was reflowing the solder with the prong of a fork heated on a hotplate, it got me the last 1000km back to base no problems and I fitted a lower mileage unit thereafter.
The relay is located at 6o'clock on the steering column. Right in between the wheel and the column. It's usually a blue colour. The relay can be removed without taking off the steering wheel, however it's an absolutle pain in the arse and ultimately impossible to get back in. It's far easier to simply remove the steering wheel.
DON'T turn the steering column, wheel or clock spring while it's off or the VDS gets confused (thinks the car is travelling in one direction when the wheels are pointing in another and try's to brake and correct - fascinating the first time it happens) and will need recalibrating with MES.
Undo the battery, wait 30 mins before unplugging the airbag. I've done this several times, it's not rocket science.
There are different relays dependant upon model (flash times etc) - most suppliers don't realise this. The common problem seems to be a dry solder joint, simply take the relay carefully apart and resolder the joints.
I imagine it's working again as you've tapped/moved it. It will fail again, the internal joint is intermittently connecting ( ask me how I know 🙂)
Between now and when you finally pull it and resolder it, just bash the bottom of the column to make it work again. It will eventually fail completely. I bought two "correct blue" replacements and neither of them worked the same. It was easier in the long run to just fix the original. I had some pics of the problem up on the other forum but I imagine photobucket has removed them
Cheers Craig for all the detailed advice. Will come in handy when it goes again. What a faff though. If I need to do all that I might as well just drop it in for the workshop to do. Fifteen minutes work for them, five hours for me! Just a bugger it didn't happen two weeks ago before it was in for its regular service.
Its actually pretty easy, I can have the wheel off mine in about five minutes now. It will be a dry solder joint in the relay on one of the connectors. Easy fix