Before I go further with this; still getting to grips with MES. Is the lowermost number the one (the "reference") to keeo between 28 and 28,5mm? I bled the clutch using MES, adjusted it carefully, cycled the gears, then re-checked it and this was the final number, as pictured. Interestingly I'd set it prior using the voltage probe method and it was a scant 29mm.
Then, which adjustment process comes next - an end of line self-learning, or the clutch calibration you do with a hot engine? Thanks for any pointers here!
Clutch Pressure Plate Travel is the one you keep an eye on when adjusting.
Thanks; should I take it a shade closer to 28, then? The thread looks about a 1mm pitch, so two flats on the pushrod would be about 1/3mm...
Closer to 28mm the better
Cheers. Find I can just squeeze my paws in there without removing anything above.
Do I do a full EOL calibration after that or just the clutch auto-adaptation routine? The actuator hasn't been off the box, just a new clutch fitted. I drove it approx. 15km on the preliminary (per voltage) adjustment.
Do both, EOL then Clutch Self Calibration
Brilliant, thank you heaps.
Bazz, you forgot to tell me that I needed to charge my laptop battery! :P
Got the clutch reading down to 28,014-odd mm. Locking off the pushrod, I dropped my 10mm combi spanner into the NSF innards of the engine bay, it bounced on something and ended up straddling the radiator lower support member. Swore at myself. Couldn't see the spanner from above, found it with a torch and mirror and carefully fished it out. Did the EOL calibration, then went to test drive... Bunny-hopped and SELESPEED SYSTEM FAILURE...MOTOR CONTROL SYSTEM FAILURE...
The throttle pot readings weren't tallying and it had gone into full fault mode. Gave the pedal a few full strokes (is this a common fault?) and then cleared the codes. That was about all I could manage before the battery called it a day.
Next time write down the actual fault codes that each system throws up, makes it a lot easier to give advice and help.
I was rushing, panicking - hence the lack of clearer information.
The fault was something like "Invalid signal accelerator track A".
Just for Bazz, I carefully recreated the fault.
P1770 Selespeed
P0220 & P1221 Motor
Gave the accelerator connector a wiggle, and also the green multiplug on the firewall where the bridging harness joins the main loom. No further problems after that.
Incidentally, the green multiplug is cable tied up to the refrigerant tubes. Was this a common ghetto fix at some point?
Can't make sense of the clutch self calibration destructions in MES, the last bit - starting the car in "2" with the accelerator pedal "flat". It reverts to N when you key start it. Do they mean to say (for the second part of the calibration) "Start the car, then place into 2nd gear before moving off. Accelerate to 3000RPM and then release the pedal"?
Quote from: Citroënbender on May 19, 2017, 03:25:19 PM
Just for Bazz, I carefully recreated the fault.
P1770 Selespeed
P0220 & P1221 Motor
Gave the accelerator connector a wiggle, and also the green multiplug on the firewall where the bridging harness joins the main loom. No further problems after that.
Incidentally, the green multiplug is cable tied up to the refrigerant tubes. Was this a common ghetto fix at some point?
This is not an uncomment fault, it's usually that green connector, take it apart, re-tension the pins, clean with electrical cleaner, reconnect & synch it up with a cable tie.
As for the Clutch calibration, just follow the instructions, restart it in second gear, then put it back to second gear of it goes to neutral, drive off with full throttle till 3000 rpm, pull over stop, turn off, take key out, wait 90 seconds, and your done.
;)
Ta, the multiplug fix is not unlike some of the French car issues. Not sold on the English solution of hardwiring it.
Just shaving a mil off the clutch adjustment (from my original 29-and-a-smidge) has made it immeasurably smoother. I'm also getting a pump cycle of about 80 seconds, that seems OK by all accounts too.
What you're describing for the final calibration is more like the instructions for the GTA Selespeed in MES, and makes more sense.
Next challenge will be trying to use the ABS actuations for purging air in the brakes... :D
Been having slight vagueness at intermediate throttle positions, without a fault code logging. While I shake down the whole car, I'm mostly driving in "city" mode.
Just wondering whether it could be wear, either in the throttle body resistive tracks or pedal assembly. Car has 204K on the chassis and external engine components, just the long motor was changed.
Hi
Could be carbon build up around throttle body. A good spray and wipe with throttle body cleaner may do the trick.
cheers
bonno
Have you carried out a "Throttle Reset" ?
G'day Bazz, I did do the initialisation procedure or whatever MES calls it. Didn't do anything not catered for by MES.
After a 1400km maiden voyage I'm about to check the adjustment of clutch again, as it seems a little grabby like before I shortened the travel to a bare 28mm.
No, that is NOT a Throttle recalibration. That sets all the Engine ecu variable learning points back to factory settings.
Google "Alfa 156 Throttle calibration procedure".
I hope to be able to do this tomorrow. Just fitted a set of RDA dimpled/slotted rotors and Ultimax 2 pads up front, need to bed them in. Throttle reset can go first.
Failed my roadworthiness inspection on front brake wear (odd, but maybe they were just being arses to an interstate car) and a noisy OSF wheel bearing.
Haven't yet done this procedure!
However, car has otherwise bedded in fairly nicely; comfy, powerful, smooth shifting and quite amenable to the rubbish roads around here. I think sitting still for eighteen months didn't help it.
All credit to the people here (especially Bazz for the relentless tech support) and on AO who helped and encouraged the "upcycling" of a $400 parts car with seized motor. I dropped about $6000 total on this project and if my labour were costed at $40/hr, at least the same again in sweat equity. Non rimpiango nulla...
One is glad to be of service . . . ;)
I know from past experience I would not clean the throttle body, I have been told from many Alfa repairs not to clean it as one mech cleaned it and cost $3000 to fix. Now that was a fair few years ago when selespeed cost a lot to fix.
Hi Alfisti
With respect to cleaning the throttle body, I appreciate the fact that modern cars incorporating fly by wire and cleaning the throttle body incorrectly can cause damage as indicated. But having said this, if the associated electrics are disconnected and throttle body removed, then cleaned appropriately with carby cleaner should be OK. I would inspect first and see whether there is any carbon build up, before attempting such action. I have provided a link to another Alfa Romeo forum which covered this very aspect.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-andamp-gt/232733-cleaning-the-throttle-body-fly-by-wire-throttle.html