Hi all, looking to do a maintenance tweak of head nuts over the weekend and have a dilemma. I'm juggling 2 manuals which have different torque settings suggested. I'm down the the sequence and slacken, oil and tighten setup but:
Autobooks manual states 52-54 ft lb (at stage 3)
Haynes manual states 64 ft lb (at stage 3)
That seems like a huge difference. The Haynes manual is more specific for the different engine sizes (I've quoted 2l) but seems like a LOT more torque.
What have the experienced ones used and what should I go for? It's not a rebuild, just a maintenance tweak.
Cheers,
DB
Victor Reinz instructions
Thanks George. Is that assuming it a reinz gasket? Maybe it's not a reinz, does anybody else even make them?
90nm is more than both other manuals :o
The previously stated 64 lbt ft is 87nm according to Haynes
Hi Damo,
Do you know the history of the gasket?
If all is ok, and it's not due a retorque due to new fittment then I'd leave it alone.
A retorque of a unknown age/type of gasket might just bring on a failure.
I personally torque to greater than 90nm but thats due to boost.
I had a tiny bit of oil in the coolant overflow last weekend at lakeside (only during 1 run it seemed). Figured either the gasket is dead or a retighten will help. I tightened when I first got the car as part of first service but only to the 54 ft lb as I only had the one manual then and that's what it states. I've probably done 8 track days and a few thousand k's total since then so figured it's due and I'm hoping for a miracle.
Back off half a turn and retorque to 65 ft/lb from stone cold first thing in the morning. Should retorque after every couple hard outings, if not too much. But I could be wrong!!!
Quote from: DHDamo on May 22, 2015, 07:33:17 PM
I had a tiny bit of oil in the coolant overflow last weekend at lakeside (only during 1 run it seemed). Figured either the gasket is dead or a retighten will help. I tightened when I first got the car as part of first service but only to the 54 ft lb as I only had the one manual then and that's what it states. I've probably done 8 track days and a few thousand k's total since then so figured it's due and I'm hoping for a miracle.
Worth a try, 90nm shouldn't do any harm.
Worst case scenario it's off with the head, bit of a shave whilst it's off for some more compression a new gasket and you're back in action 😄
Yeah figured it's worth a try. Have a new gasket if it doesn't fix as well as some different cams I'd like to try if it comes to that.
Quote from: Neil Choi on May 22, 2015, 07:55:56 PM
Back off half a turn and retorque to 65 ft/lb from stone cold first thing in the morning. Should retorque after every couple hard outings, if not too much. But I could be wrong!!!
Is it not worth backing off a bit more to add some oil to threads/washer?
I don't. Suppose you can if you want to.
i wouldn't touch it. you will likely cause a bigger problem! It will disturb what oil seal you have left
I had a similar problem recently with a little oil in coolant. I torqued to 60 ft lb and it improved for a very short while, then it came back. So I torqued to 70 ft lb and it worked well. Then two months later I had a hole in my head gasket and am currently in the process of head removal.
Interestingly I had the oil in the coolant for some months before I got around to trying the first attempt. It didn't seem to get any worse but I did need to keep an eye on my coolant as I would leak a little and needed regular top ups which probably backs up Choderboy's advice.
Ok , cheers for the tips guys. Have been watching closely and haven't lost any coolant in a long while. Have re-torqued as per the manual so will just have to see how we go (had got that far before choderboy said to leave it :( ) I have a new head gasket so if it comes to that so be it.
Correct head bolt tension starts with a CALIBRATED torque wrench. After 30years in the toolbox, I just had my Warren & Brown wrench calibrated. Cost me $140 but then you know why the head bolt snapped if it does.. ;D
Could be just radiator gunk. I just took the cap off and it's got some crud under there but not oily at all.
Back in the olden days, when we still made things in Australia, i worked for a fastener company that used to check its fasteners with calibrated torque wrenches, took all my torque wrenches to work to check them and they were miles out, up to 15% if i remember rightly.
The torsion bar wrenches are accurate, the ratchet spring style less so.
And with the ratchet spring style, when you are finished using them, unwind them to zero, as the spring can sag and loose its accuracy, Colin.
Quote from: DHDamo on May 26, 2015, 07:17:32 PM
Could be just radiator gunk. I just took the cap off and it's got some crud under there but not oily at all.
I doubt that's an issue, my fiat 124 has that gunk all the time. however someone else may know more about this common "gunk"
Quote from: colcol on May 26, 2015, 09:47:36 PM
Back in the olden days, when we still mad things in Australia, i worked for a fastener company that used to check its fasteners with calibrated torque wrenches, took all my torque wrenches to work to check them and they were miles out, up to 15% if i remember rightly.
The torsion bar wrenches are accurate, the ratchet spring style less so.
And with the ratchet spring style, when you are finished using them, unwind them to zero, as the spring can sag and loose its accuracy, Colin.
thanks Colin, you answered my question before I asked. Torsion bar type seem to be the go.
Yes, gr I'm hoping it's just gunk. My understanding is that it's less than ideal but harmless compared to a blown head gasket.