Hi All,
Can anyone tell me if the crank angle sensor off the 75 TS engine is the same as the one on the 164 V6.
The 164 I just bought doesn't fire. I can't get any spark at all, so I'm going to start with the cas, but I don't have one for a 164, only one for a TS.
Thanks
Steve
Adelaide
If the mounting is the same, the clearance between the 60-2 wheel and the sensor face is the same and finally if the connections are the same, then there is every chance it will work. One millimeter clearance will do as long as it doesn't touch the pulley.
Mount it up and check these parameters.
Also use an ohmeter with a high impedence range and measure for continuity across your old sensor. If it shows continuity, this is not likely to be a problem initially but they get intermittent from rise and fall of temperatures causing a make & break circuit of the very fine wire windings. So the engine may fire and run but as it warms up it may cause intermittent ignition issues.
Thanks MD.
Cheers
Steve
Hi Again,
Well, I ended up using a known working 164 cas, but that didn't work. Also swapped out the ecu and that again didn't work. I've now tried replacing the cas, ecu, coil and have checked the front plugs, which are old but good.
I still don't have any spark. Can anyone suggest anything to try to get me on the road.
It's actually quite a late 164, being built in 1992 and the overall condition is good. I would like to get it out of the po's front yard. The po said to me that the power steering doesn't work, but when I took the cover off to get to the cas, I saw the p/s belt was off the pump, so I think maybe that's the problem.
Cheers and TIA
Steve
Adelaide.
Gday,
Check your coolant temp sensor plug on the front of the thermostat. It is blue. The ecu won't work without a signal from it.
Cheers.
Mick.
1 I presume you have checked that there is fuel pressure.
2 Replace the igniter. If this has failed it doesn't matter that you have done, it cannot fire.
3 Replace the high tension lead from the coil to the distributor just in case it is open circuit. The coil may be working but not delivering high tension for distribution if this is circuit open.
4 If you can establish a spark and you have fuel but it doesn't fire, you have an ignition timing problem.
Don't give up. You will achieve a great sense of satisfaction if you sort it out.
Good call Mick. Learned something myself ! Cheers.
I'm pretty sure the ECU will attempt to run without a coolant sensor.
It will either use the IAT sensor value or substitute a static 'limp home' temperature, depending on a number of variables.
Does your fuel pump start running while the engine is turning over? If so, the ECU is seeing a valid signal from the CAS.
You can also wire up a 'check engine' lamp, and flash out any error codes to help with diagnosis.
Quote from: festy on September 17, 2014, 07:28:16 AM
I'm pretty sure the ECU will attempt to run without a coolant sensor.
It will either use the IAT sensor value or substitute a static 'limp home' temperature, depending on a number of variables.
Does your fuel pump start running while the engine is turning over? If so, the ECU is seeing a valid signal from the CAS.
You can also wire up a 'check engine' lamp, and flash out any error codes to help with diagnosis.
Attempt is the correct word mate!
It'll start and run like a bag of shit then cut out with a bad connection on a cold engine.
Mick.
The point I was trying to make is that a faulty CTS will not stop the ECU from triggering the ignition.
Is this a dizzy/rotor set up or individual coil packs?
You've managed to rule out some major components at least for the no spark issue, but you need to work backwards from the spark plugs to the ecu. A multimeter would come in handy. Coolant temp sensor? I tend to agree that the engine would still fire up with a faulty coolant sensor.
Just noticed that you mentioned coil.
Well I'd start checking continuity on HT lead, there resistance, coil pack resistance, check rotor and dizzy cap continuity and tracking, is the rotor spinning? Then you can move onto the wiring and fuses, is power and ground where it's meant to be.
Noticed some mention an error code check with the check engine lamp. Not sure if how that's done, but if you don't have diagnostics, see what errors are logged with the ecu. Anyhow, soldier on mate, it will be something stupid and simple in the end.
Do you know when it last ran?
Damn it, back again. Just an after thought. Is it an auto? Check the trans cutout switch is ok, switch may be stuck/faulty and registering that it's not in park or neutral.
Hi All,
Thanks for all the suggestions. I feel that I'm groping around in the dark a bit with the Motronic, as I've only ever worked on L-Jet up to now. (Apart from wrecking a few.)
Jesus, yes it is an auto, but it will crank, and I am assuming the trans lockout switch works the same as any other and if it's cranking, it should be good to go.
MD, haven't checked fuel pressure yet although after a bit of cranking, I can smell fuel from the exhaust, so once again I'm assuming.
As it seems to not be anything obvious, I've decided to add to the $210 purchase price and have it brought to my place on a flatbed for $125. Once it's there I can have another go, preferably in daylight on the weekend.
I think I've still got a spare set of leads and cap from a 164, so that will be the next step.
Once again, thanks for all the suggestions. I'll keep you informed and there may be more questions.
Cheers
Steve
Adelaide.
Hi All,
Got it in the driveway now, but the mystery continues. I do have spark. Don't know if I had it before, but I was using the old screwdriver in the end of the lead and didn't get a spark. Andrew suggested I use a plug and I do have spark.
I also have fuel pressure. I sorted my pressure gauge and I get 50psi at crank and it takes about five minutes to go away at rest.
I've swapped the ecu and afm for known working ones all with no change.
Where to next, oh knowledgeable ones?
Cheers
Confused
Adelaide.
So there's absolutely no firing at all? Not even an occasional pop?
It could still be ignition related, a really weak spark will jump the gap in open air but not with the compression inside a cylinder, but I'd still think you'd get the occasional firing.
Have you verified that your injectors are actually opening? With ignition on, there should be 12v to one side of each injector, and the ECU grounds the other side. If you unplug an injector and stick a noid light or test lamp on the plug, you should see it flashing while you crank the engine over.
If the car has been sitting for a long time, there could be air locks in the fuel line or the injectors could be gummed up.
I wouldn't expect every one of them to be stuck, but I recall it happening to someone before...
You could pull the fuel pump fuse, and see if the fuel pressure drops when you turn the engine over. If the injectors aren't opening, the pressure should remain.
And is the battery charged and in decent condition? Are the terminals clean and tight? These systems really struggle if the voltage drops too low, and while the starter is turning the battery voltage might be getting too low to open the injectors and charge the coil too.
Failing all that, it might be time to wire up a check-engine lamp and diagnostics switch. Not only will that tell you what faults if any are present, but you can also run self-tests on the injectors etc.
Steve,
Quoteyes it is an auto, but it will crank, and I am assuming the trans lockout switch works the same as any other and if it's cranking, it should be good to go.
I am not sure that it does. It's why I was looking for the neutral switch location. The wife's 75 cranks but does not fire until I wriggle the auto gear selector and then it fires and continues to run like a Swiss watch. So as soon as I get a chance, I am going to examine that sucker, give it a lobotomy and fit a new one.
You got nothing to loose but your smoker's cough mate..
I seem to recall that the P/D switch only really affects the idle speed (higher idle in D), but MD's evidence sounds convincing - it could be a function only implemented in certain chip versions.
The switch should ground pin 28 of the ECU if that helps...
Hi All,
I'm embarrassed to say that I completely forgot the basics.
Put in a new set of plugs and guess what.....vroom.
Now, just need to fix the major p/s leak, new front brakes, put the interior back together (from getting to the ecu), etc., etc..
I'd like to say that I'll remember this in future, but you know, some mistakes are so simple you forget you've made them. Or is that just me. Now where did I put my memory medication.
By the way MD, there is adjustment built into the selector cable for when things need a bit of adjustment.
Cheers and thanks once again to everyone for your help.
Steve
Adelaide.