Hi Folks,
As the topic states, this is a question for those who have done it before...
So it is time to start getting the engine back to a state ready for reinstallation. The 164 12v block is 4mm shorter than the original 2.5. I have a 4mm spacer (thanks Steve) to go between the crank and the flywheel which will then allow the starter to engage properly as well as keep the length of the drive train the same (althouugh I expect that the slip joint could absorb that if asked to). However as the starter is 4mm proud of the back of the block in this scenario - what do people do when remounting the bell housing? Is there a need for 4mm spacers (washers?) on all the bell housing bolts (except for the starter motor)? Do you move the starter 4mm towards the front somehow (if so, why do you need the spacer then?)
Open to ideas and proven know how :D
Cheers
Marty
Hey Marty, haven't done this swap, but couldn't help myself to impart my lack of wisdom. Sounds like a fun project to by the way.
Started typing away when I came across this to save my little fat digits.
Found this on the forum which seems to answer your dilemma. Looks to have further links to full transplants too 8)
http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=5826.0 (http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=5826.0)
Hi Marty,
Just add the spacer and then everything else bolts up the same except the starter, where you have to remove the two thick washers under the bolts at the back of the starter.
This needs to be done to get the rear mount for the starter to line up with the mounting hole on the engine mount. (It's out by 4mm because the block is 4mm shorter).
Call me if this doesn't make sense.
Cheers
Steve
The 3.0 block is 4mm shorter but the crank is 8mm shorter. So the 4mm spacer moves the flywheel back to the same position relative to the rear face of the block as in the 2.5, giving the correct starter alignment as you say. Overall though the complete engine assemble remains 4mm shorter than in the 2.5.
Dimensions of a 3.0 75 flywheel are quite different to a 2.5 GTV6. Not sure what a 2.5 75 is like as that is a later engine than a GTV6 and these dimensional changes where made to all engines built once Alfa started on FWD cars. They were made to shorten the assembly and facilitate east-west installation.
If you are using the bellhousing etc off the original 2.5 then what you will find is that when you install the engine, the rear mount will not line up and the tailshaft engagementment is slightly less. The tailshaft isn't an issue and fixing the rear mount is an easy 5 minute job with a dremel. Just saying.
Thanks, sorted this last night!
It remains a complete mystery to me why there had to be the difference in the engine lengths for the 164 install.
The 164 engine bays I've looked in seem to have plenty of lateral room. The 4/8mm difference almost looks like the change was done and then found to be not needed.
Confused
Adelaide.
Probably for the 155 which had the 2.5 V6 in Europe.
Marty, so what was your solution?
I followed Steve's advice! :) It has set me straight a number of times throughout the project.
Basically I took the washers off the 2 small, long bolts that go through the starter motor and mount it to the engine mount. It still didn't look right but I figured (rightly as it turns out :)) that doing that and then bolting the bell housing on and then loosening the nuts on the engine mount side allowed me to pull tight the starter onto the bell housing and I then tightened up the small nuts again so it was all tight.
I had to use the spacer otherwise the front flexdisc bolt heads on the flywheel would catch on the back of the block. All looks like it should and I am pretty happy - and the engine is now in the car again as of last night (pic in my build thread :)) - just having a slight disagreement with the front splined joint of the drive shaft - came out easily, now cleaned and lubed but now not going together so figure it must be catching on something but not sure what yet... got any pointers?
If I remember correctly, it has a master spline and will only go on one way. Engine looks great BTW, I like the black wrinkle. Are they PACE extractors?
Scott
Thanks Scott, will check that out. I am very happy with the way the crinkle paint has worked and the way it looks. The headers are CSC, got them from eb spares some time ago. It used to have Pace headers but they had been on the car for ages and been banged up pretty bad, repaired and then banged up again.