Just reading up on the front pulley of the V6 engine. Trying to gauge how hard it is to remove in the car. It looks like front nut is done up to 245Nm or thereabouts which is pretty tight. But reckon I could get that with 3/4" 41mm socket and long bar. But how hard is it to get the nut off and then to get the pulley off while still in the car? I assume that the pulley could grow on a bit.
I am assuming to remove it with a rattle gun means lifting the engine up a bit.
Radiator out! You'll never get a rattle gun in that gap. Radiator out is 2x hose clamps, fan wires, and a 13mm bolt up top. Piece of piss and while you've got it out flush the cooling system and the radiator.
You could get to it with a long bar, but you'll probably just skip a tooth on the crank or strip the timing belt if you try undo it with the car in gear. Rattle gun is the smart option!
And yes, sometimes you'll need to jack the motor up at the front a bit to clear the body.
Assuming you get the nut off, how hard is it to get the front pulley off? Not much room to attack it in the car, not sure if it is a light press fit or just sits there.
Once you've got the nut off, the pulley should just slide off. Not a press fit at all.
+1 for the rattle gun and definitely need radiator out.
Steve
Adelaide
Just got the front nut of the 164 engine off with battery rattle gun. Took a bit but got there. I had been on it with a long breaker to no avail so another +1 for the rattle gun (borrowed mine from the ex's hubby :P)
Once nut is off, pulley will come off with a puller :)
Quote from: VeeSix on March 28, 2013, 01:04:19 AM
Once nut is off, pulley will come off with a puller :)
As previously stated, you will not need a puller, it will just come off easily.
Unless it's rusted.... hah!
So is it advisable to put some copper based grease/non seize compound on when putting it back on? Or is that a bad thing to do?
You can if you want, not necessary though with this motor.
Double check there isn't a lock washer peened down on the nut :) If it resists your best efforts and you don't mind changing the oil seal behind it, give the nut a good toast up with a propane torch and it should come off a bit easier.
At least, that worked well on a couple of 105 engines I've rebuilt.
Cheers,