I recently purchased this Berlina.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/2C9556DD-C754-4BCA-B954-741DD460BA9D-7181-00000969B6A7818E_zpsfaf09ecd.jpg)
The car was built by local alfa nut and great bloke Nigel Wright. I knew the car from when Nigel owned it and when accidentally I saw the car for sale I didnt have much choice but to buy it. The car has been mechanically restored and improved and has a stunning interior. The body is straightish and cleanish, far from perfect but theres nothing really to do for now, just drive and enjoy!
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/E2525458-539B-4041-A83C-41427C314EB9-7181-00000969B05CB7D4_zps6c3e1122.jpg)
There were a couple of issues with the car, the motor had no torque and didnt rev, the brakes were very spongy, speedo didnt work and there was a horrible vibration at speed.
The issue with the motor was due to an incorrectly set VVT solenoid and the VVT relay was wired incorrectly. The speedo cable was not done up fully at the gearbox, there was air in the brake lines and the flexible coupling between the gearbox and tailshaft was torn into four pieces (one piece was missing!). All of these issues have been fixed with the only outlay being for a new tailshaft donut.
The car passed a RWC inspection today with zero defects. Now I need to remember how to drive a 105!
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/455F5C86-4120-449F-8606-53DB0E55B16F-380-0000008520587461_zps787f25e9.jpg)
And a quick one at that! Good work!!
Me: "Its in miles darlin, go 60 and you'll be doing 100. Ok!?"
Later.....
GF: "Hey, i couldnt get it to go 60, I got scared at 45"
Me: what gear were you in?" GF: "5th"
What gauge were you reading?????
Congrats. I think it's a great car. Nigel's a top bloke and was kind enough to let me drive this car a few years ago to get a feel for the twin spark. As a result, I ended up putting one in my super and never looked back!
Tony r.
Yep, congratulations, you have done well.
Look forward to checking out the car when we have a club drive to your area early May.
Nice one, a bit of a wolf in sheep's clothing, should be a lot of fun. Love the 1750 Berlina interior, particularly with the burgundy seats and door cards, lovely old radio in there too.
Its like driving a really comfortable couch
What a ripper !
Phillip Island sprints are coming up ...... :)
Sprints!! Cant wait. I'll need to sort out a few items first.
The idler arm is flogged out and the rear end wiggles over bumps. The brakes drag too, quite a bit.
'Divano Veloce'. Cute 8)
Thanks for the kind words everyone... Yes I fondly remember this car but I spent too much money on it! :P (don't we all?!) Glad it has stayed in the family. Hope to see it out and about a bit more now with its new enthusiastic owner!
That is just Full Of Win - congratulations !
We returned from our honeymoon with a box of alfa parts to refurb the front end. Today most of the suspension came apart and I was surprised to find the castor arm ball joints were badly worn but the lower control arm bushes ok... All will be replaced anyway. There was some serious play through the left side track rid and idler too. Only 1-2mm of brake pad remaining. Tomorrow the intake comes off and the steering box comes out.
How does one correctly adjust the tie rod (drag link).
I have an idler arm repair kit, does anyone have experience with removing and rewelding the arm to the new shaft?
Divano Veloce. Congrats on both the wedding and the Berlina. That car is a lot more than a mere wolf in sheep's clothing, a whole lot more fun too I'll bet and, unlike the wolf, much more easily tameable. There are a whole bunch of 105 experts on this forum so you shouldn't have any troubles getting answers to any of your queries. Castlemaine and surrounding area is fast becoming home to a few Alfisti too so answers could well be available locally. Good luck.
Barry
QuoteHow does one correctly adjust the tie rod (drag link).
In a way that no run of the mill wheel alignment shop would do, only the better Alfa workshops would know (considering that few would actually do their own wheel alignments).
Caster (More the better IMO) and camber (if you have adjustable top arms: set for your tyres and intended usage) are straight foward adjustments (and are always performed first).
To set the drag link link: the steering wheel must be at the straight ahead position, the right hand wheel is then set to the desired toe (relative to the centreline of the vehicle) by adjusting the RH tie rod. Measure the length of the RH tie rod from centre to centre. The left hand tie rod must then be adjusted to exactly the same length as the right hand. The drag link length is the final adjustment to get the overall toe correct. Road test to see if the wheel is straight.
It is usually not that straight forward. It always used to take me one or two goes to get the steering wheel dead straight with the equipment I used back when I twirled spanners. Fine adjustments are made with the tie rods (as long as the difference in length side to side is no greater than about 3 mm to avoid bump steer) Modern laser wheel alignment equipment may make this easier.
The main point is that the tie rods are the SAME length (insist on this with the person performing the work). The drag link length will then be correct.
Agree with Luke 100%.. I tried a couple of alignment shops (both ill and well reputed) and they used the drivers side link to center the steering wheel and set d/s toe, then the pass side link to toe the other side.
if the d/s and p/s links aren't close in length, the ackerman geometry is thrown out, so it will turn in faster on one side compared to the other.
I was sceptical - but tried a method to align the car myself - flat ground, 4 large floor tiles, some grease and a $40 laser level from bunnings. it takes a little time but is very rewarding.
Jack up the front of the car, stick two tiles on the ground under the front wheels, shiny side up. grease the shiny side liberally, put the other tile on top shiny side down, then lower the front wheels onto the tile sandwich. the grease lets them settle out to a normal rest position, and makes it easy to turn them when adjusting.
lock the steering wheel centered with the contraption of choice.
then you make up a mount (timber / steel etc) that will let you hold the laser level against the rear rim (not tyre) pointing forwards - hold it on the wheel with a ocky strap or similar, and then use a tape measure / ruler off the front and rear edge of the front wheel - the laser will hit the ruler and show if that wheel is true to the rear. adjust the drivers side link to get those measurements the same, you will have that wheel setup with zero toe. you can choose to set a little toe in or out depending on application
measure the length of the drivers side link, ball joint centre to ball joint centre and then adjust the passenger one to match, then using the laser on the opposite rear wheel - adjust the center link until you have the same toe on the passenger side front wheel.
bear in mind this difference from the front to rear of the front rim is not the toe in mm - to work that out you need some trig and imaginary numbers like eleventeen, and thirty-twelve.
basically it's the same as the string method, with less setup time and with frickin' lasers !
Obviously this aligns the front wheels against the thrust angle of the rear - if your rear end is all out of whack, you'll still end up with a car that steers well, but crabs along. If you have a bent rear wheel or axle stub it will throw the laser out too.. Last time I did the alignment, (it was miles out of true) first go got it close, second go got the steering wheel centred, and my last go was a tiny adjustment on the toe.
Anyway - hope that helps - I'm sure there are a few wizer denizens of the forums who can do it with some blu-tack and a rock ;)
cheers,
Thanks guys!
Alas the steering box is at the doctors for some major repairs. In hindsight i should have replaced it. It had the tri-fecta - pitted steering shaft races, excess wear between the nut and rocker and some big cracks.
I should have it back tonight for install over the weekend.
Brakes are apart too, they will be off to be electroplated next week. So at least another week or two before its driving again.....
Steering box photos:
the usual lower bearing inner race
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/BC5B1878-5645-4041-95F6-B3E4823E1341-1128-000001591A115C09_zpsc1cfeb0b.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/BC5B1878-5645-4041-95F6-B3E4823E1341-1128-000001591A115C09_zpsc1cfeb0b.jpg.html)
the upper bearing inner race
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/6A77716D-93E2-4497-8E8C-D40F511B69C9-1128-000001592A001308_zps2ef1dac1.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/6A77716D-93E2-4497-8E8C-D40F511B69C9-1128-000001592A001308_zps2ef1dac1.jpg.html)
new lower bush and box machined for a lip seal
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/843C3130-5EDB-4D21-BE3B-8BC0A2E80FB3-1128-000001589304B965_zpsd54af1be.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/843C3130-5EDB-4D21-BE3B-8BC0A2E80FB3-1128-000001589304B965_zpsd54af1be.jpg.html)
the case was cracked at three of the four threaded holes and required welding. THis required the top and front flange to be re-machined and the inner diameter re-bored.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/43F49836-B2AA-4DF8-B401-4BE7AD811F5F-1128-0000015884939FCB_zpsfea58f63.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/43F49836-B2AA-4DF8-B401-4BE7AD811F5F-1128-0000015884939FCB_zpsfea58f63.jpg.html)
skf 30303J2 bearing installed. The timken bearing mentioned elsewhere is a better fit
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/C0F2C1EA-F623-4D61-991D-04F62F800389-1128-0000015865122491_zps334fde80.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/C0F2C1EA-F623-4D61-991D-04F62F800389-1128-0000015865122491_zps334fde80.jpg.html)
refirbed suspension ready to go back in
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/692D8457-F4A2-4541-9E02-2F6A35F16347-1128-00000158A6ED50D4_zps941f4b67.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/692D8457-F4A2-4541-9E02-2F6A35F16347-1128-00000158A6ED50D4_zps941f4b67.jpg.html)
brake piston removal using the grease gun method. the pair of bolts and nuts are keeping the lose piston from moving, forcing the stuck piston free
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/EEA9707D-43FA-414B-8698-90D3E0BBBB62-1128-0000015901D95196_zps2ff22f60.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/EEA9707D-43FA-414B-8698-90D3E0BBBB62-1128-0000015901D95196_zps2ff22f60.jpg.html)
brake calipers prior to diy hot tank and plating
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/7202B0D3-32FC-4FD3-BD7C-9B2CE40D26D1-1128-00000158EC102BA9_zps3bb4d22d.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/7202B0D3-32FC-4FD3-BD7C-9B2CE40D26D1-1128-00000158EC102BA9_zps3bb4d22d.jpg.html)
front end going back together
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/5450EDEF-45DD-4469-B6A5-32E93D205601-1217-000001ABDCD34D2C_zps744a7769.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/5450EDEF-45DD-4469-B6A5-32E93D205601-1217-000001ABDCD34D2C_zps744a7769.jpg.html)
i know, the car is filthy....
;D Too true, ;D so a real pity not to be able to take advantage of giving the inner wheel wells a sprucing up before re-installing all that nice shiny stuff. But sadly I guess time, and the need perhaps to get the Berlina back on the road is working against you.
BTW it is a very 8) berlina !!
I can promise the new bits will quickly match the old bits ;)
Great work !
Calipers are back from the platers
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/BBFBA2F5-2D4D-472D-9CC8-702091ED99E1-405-000000A2EFD14641_zps581d26eb.jpg)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/E04520E7-432F-49E0-AFFA-244032399B88-405-000000A2E06E50CE_zps6cb8174a.jpg)
I'm very happy with the result!
Spectacular !
Thanks Scott. The plating was done by bendigo electroplaters, $80 for the calipers and nuts/bolts/bleeders.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/E39C352D-AC1D-4CAD-9B38-D2A9754AAB86-1805-000001EFA8231259_zps180ef9f0.jpg) with pistons and seals
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/F72E305E-2D02-4EB6-9636-B1452EF62812-1805-000001EFD6D2C582_zps03c5d3c5.jpg)
Here i've ground then punched out the old idler shaft. Unfortunately I didnt photograph the reassembly process but what I did was as follows:
Tap the new idler shaft into the idler arm then assemble the whole thing with all the trust washers and the top nut and washer (ensuring that the thust washers are located on the roll pins). I then, using a hydraulic press pressed the new shaft in until all clearance was taken up. I removed it from the press and checked for smooth rotation. All good! I then replicated the original weld.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/CFE58C92-2DC3-4F46-BAA1-EAB2C4ECE619-1095-00000170C007648C_zpsb159daab.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/CFE58C92-2DC3-4F46-BAA1-EAB2C4ECE619-1095-00000170C007648C_zpsb159daab.jpg.html)
suspension and brakes back together
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/2DAE0961-DFB4-492D-9783-80363B6A528A-1095-0000017151BF3313_zps94cd6ef5.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/2DAE0961-DFB4-492D-9783-80363B6A528A-1095-0000017151BF3313_zps94cd6ef5.jpg.html)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/E41F0DA5-996E-48D0-A12E-CE71A6EB81CA-1095-00000171971C3B03_zpsd2d411e0.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/E41F0DA5-996E-48D0-A12E-CE71A6EB81CA-1095-00000171971C3B03_zpsd2d411e0.jpg.html)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/8BE0FFEB-6CE8-445E-85F9-B80425FCEE41-1095-000001720DD478CB_zpsc75d313c.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/8BE0FFEB-6CE8-445E-85F9-B80425FCEE41-1095-000001720DD478CB_zpsc75d313c.jpg.html)
Steering box finally back together!
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/2A59D002-52E0-4D0F-B621-0AB4A744C51D-1095-00000171D1131CF8_zpsf5de9812.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/2A59D002-52E0-4D0F-B621-0AB4A744C51D-1095-00000171D1131CF8_zpsf5de9812.jpg.html)
where the magic happens (where i make time dissapear!!)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/25E1C6BA-F36D-4BCD-8F71-B53A38E0BF8C-1095-00000172802A35EC_zpsa4786589.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/25E1C6BA-F36D-4BCD-8F71-B53A38E0BF8C-1095-00000172802A35EC_zpsa4786589.jpg.html)
Shed..... So..... Big......
Great work on the box and idler ! I've never done a complete idler rebuild like that, really interesting to see - and that box is going to be a jewel !
Cheers,
Scott.
Thats only half of it! its 6 portal frames wide with 3 of them being the workshop. Im standing in a large carport taking the last photo. It is an enviable shed and is one of the reasons why we (I) decided to buy the place.
The car is going very nicely since its undercarriage work. The list however grows.... A big swaybar, new exhaust, steering wheel with column spacer are on the cards, also decent tyres.
What I forgot to mention is my workaround for the rear brake pressure regulating valve. Mine was stuffed and I was quoted $150 to repair or $150 for exchange for a rebuild item. I instead installed a rear brake pressure regulating valve from a VW. Its a PRV labelled 3/35 which i am told means that it has a cutin pressure of 35bar and a ratio of 3:1 for further pressure rise above this point. The alfa unit also has a 3:1 ratio but i have no idea of its factory set cutin pressure.
I have tested this PRV insofar as the rear brakes do not lock up before the front. I have not been able to lock the rears in my limited tests so it could be over-regulating.... It would be good to test an alfa unit on the bench to determine where its cutin pressure is.
Take a good look at the lower control arms. A lot of people miss this but there are front ones and rear ones. I cannot tell from your pics but you should make a check to ensure that the rear one has a a machined scollop running around the inner end (this may vary from model to model... long time since I owned a 105). This is to ensure that there is working clearance for the tie rod/drag link ends. Note also that the original Alfa links ends were smaller in certain positions. These design nuances are to ensure that there is no binding/contact of steering parts.
Nice work on the box. I also have previously used tapered bearings. From memory, it was a early box without a steering lock so I used them top and bottom.
the leftover bits
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/0D877F1F-D44B-4C11-9F96-E38DEDCB4A77-435-0000005F943FE703_zpsdfca3bc2.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/0D877F1F-D44B-4C11-9F96-E38DEDCB4A77-435-0000005F943FE703_zpsdfca3bc2.jpg.html)
but it still managed to get to spetaccolo
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/E45ADB73-99BB-4300-B59B-01CA715EBDDA-435-0000005FA8E34F35_zps55487961.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/E45ADB73-99BB-4300-B59B-01CA715EBDDA-435-0000005FA8E34F35_zps55487961.jpg.html)
Quote from: Divano Veloce on November 24, 2013, 09:19:01 PM
the leftover bits
It seems you'll need to do that a few more times before you have enough leftovers to build a second car. :D
Looking great, lovely work.
Its been a while since my last update.... since then I've done a couple of sprints. At Winton the car wouldnt turn, on the fast entry corners i could trail brake but the cows tits were a screechy scrubby hell... So i installed Vins top ball joint extenders (and new top arms amongst other bits and pieces). THe difference is remarkable! At Broadford on the weekend I had no trouble whatsoever with turn in or front end grip, but the rear is a bit lively.... I also picked up a pair of red leather seats from Pickapart for $100, very comfy and good on the track.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/FD021823-0AFE-4B50-9964-549D24CFDEB8-207-00000009A5B4110D_zps63aa647d.jpg)
1:20.5 at Broadford with ordinary street tyres and no tacho (hence the short shifting)
http://youtu.be/8jhn27Sx5ac
Love the seats! They look kinda familiar...
Short shifting? But it's a twin spark - it has a built-in rev limiter! ;D
Awesome !
(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view7/2662103/spaceballs-ludicrous-speed-o.gif)
The seats look great. Re those upright extenders; I have them on the tarmac rally car and they do a great job. I did find that they introduce a big bump steer isssue, as you would expect. Ran a Targa tassie with the extenders but no bump steer fix and although it was good I never felt entirely settled when braking, especially on bumpy bits. Checked the bump steer and it was massive, 10mm toe in per wheel at full bump! (dotted line on the pic)
As you can see in the picture changing the vertical position of the pivot points of the track rods fixed the problem (solid line). Next tarmac rally and the difference was amazing-- and we moved up the placings.
Word of warning though. If you use a rose jointed track rod kit to get bump steer adjustment be very careful that the angular limit of the rod ends is not exceeded under all bump, droop and steering angle conditions.
Thanks guys!
the seats are out of a 156 twin spark. For $100 i couldnt resist.... the old seats were very nice and comfortable but had no headrests and not much lateral support. I dont like red leather interiors in a 156 but am surprised at how good they look (albeit a bit modern) in the Berlina. The pleats even match the back seats!!!
there was no reason to use 5th at broadford, i was being unnecessarily cautious after the rev limiting/pinging symptoms i'd had.... the car still pulled really well in 5th though.
as for bump steer, is there a cheap (ie, non AH) kit that can be adapted to suit the alfa steering arms? It seems like something that could be fairly universal between makes of cars that use the same/similar track rod ends....
The AH Rod end based kit is pricey. Now that we know what the issues are maybe a way to go would be to leave the centre rod alone and just think about the track rods. Basically the inner pivot of each rod needs to be lower and/or the outer one raised. 2 ltr steering arms are already swept up and maybe a further upsweep is all that is needed? If so the ball joints could probably be retained--unless they run out of angular travel.
The required difference in outer vs inner pivot height seems to be about 15 to 20 mm. A temporary mock up with the springs removed and a $5 laser pointer attached to the hub should sort out the approximate positions needed.
Then bending (carefully!) of the arms should do the job? If spacers are needed to lower the inner pivots then it gets a bit more complicated bacause the ball joints are tapered fittings.
Quote from: Divano Veloce on December 18, 2014, 08:50:56 AM
I also picked up a pair of red leather seats from Pickapart for $100, very comfy and good on the track.
Hi Divano,
Do happen to recall whether or not the 156 seats bolted straight to your existing floor mounting points, or did you need to make modifications to the seat runners or floor mounts?
Regards,
Nick
Quote from: Paul Byrne on December 18, 2014, 04:15:18 PM
The seats look great. Re those upright extenders; I have them on the tarmac rally car and they do a great job. I did find that they introduce a big bump steer isssue, as you would expect. Ran a Targa tassie with the extenders but no bump steer fix and although it was good I never felt entirely settled when braking, especially on bumpy bits. Checked the bump steer and it was massive, 10mm toe in per wheel at full bump! (dotted line on the pic)
As you can see in the picture changing the vertical position of the pivot points of the track rods fixed the problem (solid line). Next tarmac rally and the difference was amazing-- and we moved up the placings.
Word of warning though. If you use a rose jointed track rod kit to get bump steer adjustment be very careful that the angular limit of the rod ends is not exceeded under all bump, droop and steering angle conditions.
Hey Paul, do you happen to know how much you moved the track rod ends by?
QuoteHey Paul, do you happen to know how much you moved the track rod ends by?
as he said he dropped the inner down about 15-20mm from standard. When i did it on my car i had combination of a bent up outer arm and a spaced down inner arm of similar values.
Definitely worth checking for yourself though as you may be running different camber, caster or ride height, also we both did this with the risers in place), you'll never get it perfect its a matter of getting it the best you can in the used area of suspension travel
well worth the effort though!
Quote from: Colin Byrne on January 05, 2015, 01:31:52 PM
as he said he dropped the inner down about 15-20mm from standard. When i did it on my car i had combination of a bent up outer arm and a spaced down inner arm of similar values.
Definitely worth checking for yourself though as you may be running different camber, caster or ride height, also we both did this with the risers in place), you'll never get it perfect its a matter of getting it the best you can in the used area of suspension travel
well worth the effort though!
I read that as there being a height difference from inside to out of 15-20mm, not a height change of 15-20mm - just wanted to get a rough idea of the change.
I've got Vin's risers on my car too - 2l uprights/steering arms - works nicely, but occasionally bumpsteery.
yea its crazy how much bump steer these cars can have in them with semi standard setups
what ride height are you running? we're both running fairly standard ride height to get some decent ground clearance
lower than you I would imagine, but not super low, see pic
(http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t242/Bish_500/Alfa/13162909795_f51322c983_o_zpsd5791c88.jpg)
Just to clarify track rod end points change to reduce bump steer with the risers in place.
I meant that I changed the pivot points so that there was a 15 to 20mm increase in the height of the outer pivot relative to the inner. I raised the outer by about 5mm and dropped the inner by about 10mm.
Hope this clarifies!
Yep, got it now :)
The gearbox did NOT want to be left behind so they both came out... I think it was binding on the spigot bush which pulled out with the gearbox
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/0D572E5D-4FE2-4CBC-8E39-F43CC6D81EBB-570-000000447602C091_zps2xfqkhyj.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/0D572E5D-4FE2-4CBC-8E39-F43CC6D81EBB-570-000000447602C091_zps2xfqkhyj.jpg.html)
Improv torture rack
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/1D2A7FD2-34E0-4E45-BE93-983D8AF4A8EA-570-00000044AD2B25B2_zpsrzko14qo.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/1D2A7FD2-34E0-4E45-BE93-983D8AF4A8EA-570-00000044AD2B25B2_zpsrzko14qo.jpg.html)
next off with the head. Again I used the block and tackle to save my back
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/0FD96896-C33A-459B-B61D-4581A5206EAA-570-00000044C9AC941F_zpshf6uobet.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/0FD96896-C33A-459B-B61D-4581A5206EAA-570-00000044C9AC941F_zpshf6uobet.jpg.html)
Off with the battery tray
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/CF3842D6-CEEB-4AF2-9192-29E26B34B267-570-00000044916CE84A_zpsjaolkxt7.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/CF3842D6-CEEB-4AF2-9192-29E26B34B267-570-00000044916CE84A_zpsjaolkxt7.jpg.html)
Engine bay after a wash.... When the TS motor was installed the owner had the engine bay painted... Thanks Nigel!
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/663CCC9F-C78E-47A3-A196-9003DE432339-570-00000044F64C75AA_zpsakwreuc1.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/663CCC9F-C78E-47A3-A196-9003DE432339-570-00000044F64C75AA_zpsakwreuc1.jpg.html)
All pistons look like this on the inlet side, the rest of the skirt looks perfect
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/DBBAE7B2-E56A-4A3B-951D-6B98690603A3-570-00000045345BA855_zpsgozspcot.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/DBBAE7B2-E56A-4A3B-951D-6B98690603A3-570-00000045345BA855_zpsgozspcot.jpg.html)
Big ends all look pretty good
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/A13C0677-A5EA-4BFE-A8DE-E4EF3E12FA2A-570-000000451D75BF77_zpsp8o1xrd8.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/A13C0677-A5EA-4BFE-A8DE-E4EF3E12FA2A-570-000000451D75BF77_zpsp8o1xrd8.jpg.html)
No more bench space...
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/ohospaghettio/07A15F3C-4CA0-4EAB-AF7C-880F304FC0A3-570-0000004507B5CFA5_zpsodavgmgu.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/ohospaghettio/media/07A15F3C-4CA0-4EAB-AF7C-880F304FC0A3-570-0000004507B5CFA5_zpsodavgmgu.jpg.html)
Quote from: Divano Veloce on July 11, 2015, 09:11:43 AM
By the time I'm done I will have a car that's probably too nice to enjoy the way I have....
https://youtu.be/A-oLGZRoRWI
Nice video, but you should have had your sleeves rolled down. Pit lane marshall slacking off 8)
Fark.. That's why I hadn't posted this vid... Whoops
Turns out spare sills are a mixed bag. At best 1.5 lhs sills.... However unlike coupes the sill profiles are straight/parallel so can be easily made.
Nord rods perhaps? Bump up that CR...
I think you should be able to re-use most of the TS bottom end. I doubt there is any issues with the block itself. A set of second hand nord rods in good condition would be very cheap. Get the original crank checked out for balance and condition. New (probably over-size) big end bearings. Have the pistons and liners checked for out of round etc. Then maybe have your pulley checked for balance as well.
Should be fairly cheap; be balanced; have slightly more compression and still have the TS motor. Only potential major problem would be if you need to replace the pistons and liners or crank.
I'm just envious you were able to pull the head off so easily! I'm guessing it has been off not that long ago.
I vaguely recall the nose being slightly different.
I'd re-use the TS crank - alfa cranks are pretty solidly overbuilt - maybe throw a can of dye-pen at it to check for cracks, but i reckon you'll find it's ok. They're Nitrided, so it's pretty rare that the crank needs re-grinding.
I must have missed it, what's the reason for engine stripdown?
The nord cranks are a little different on the nose - but there's also a difference on the radius on the edge of the bearing journals. earlier nords have a sharp edge where TS cranks have a 2mm radius. You have to be careful to check the bearing shells you use are chamfered on the edges to allow for this radius in on a TS crank (or just chamfer an earlier set with the edge of a steel ruler - thanks Vin...)
I've been using an earlier 2L nord crank in the last two iterations of the TS in my super. (because that was the crank I'd tapped grub screws into the galleys on already... :) )
Ben's right - the nitrided cranks are super tough...
See you have rust repair sills for your berlina-?i am wondering if anyone out there know of anyone making/selling rust repair panels for berlinas?
Re the vibration, I read your other thread about the pulley. I've removed the extra grooves from a couple of pulleys now, but I cut them off with an angle grinder and then faced them in a lathe to clean it up. A friend of mine did it with a hacksaw, neatly, and his doesn't have any vibration issues.
If you get it all back together and still have an issue - you're welcome to borrow my pulley to test - the super's TS is coming out for new pistons :)
Does the nose of the crank run true ? I have seen one bent a tiny bit from careless shipping of an engine....
That's certainly not going to help :)
Erm, yeah, that's not ideal!