Silver HU for 02 GTA

[flipch]

Hi Gents,

It's been a while...    Finally getting around to finishing off my audio set up for my GTA.   Looking for a silver radio/CD that will look ok with the silver surrounds of the dash/console.

Found an Alpine CDE-9882Ri for sale, probably under $150, used.   Has a silver/chrome surround, some other silver sections, but also black, with red LCD display. 

Also a new 2005 model Clarion DXZ856MP CD MP3 Receiver for $198.   

I know Alpines have a better reputation, but the DXZ856MP is all silver and seems to be a good deal.

Anyone know of any new silver single din HU's that are decent.... seem to be an extinct item 

I have decent speakers and amp ready to be connected, so want a half decent HU, but not anything over the top.   I listen to the radio most of the time, and have reception issues with the standard Blaupunkt.   But I will keep it if there is nothing substantially better that is at least mostly silver.

Phil

[shiny_car]

Unfortunately, silver-faced headunits are all but extinct from any current line up. I don't understand it either, but it's very annoying.

The Alpine 9882 is very decent, and I think it will suit your needs fine. Nothing wrong with Clarion either; sound quality is as good as Alpine IMO. But as with any secondhand model, it can be a little hit and miss: buttons may be worn, may be scratches, CD laser may be dirty and worn and prone to skipping and lose some of that clarity. But it's not to say they are all bad, at all.

The factory Blaupunkt is not great for clarity, and I think you'll notice a significant improvement with an aftermarket model with RCA output to connect directly to the amp.

If you want to retain the steering wheel controls, you'll need a model that suits; one with a steering wheel control input socket. Most, but not all, have this, so check the specs carefully. Then you'll need an interface to connect b/w the factory plugs and new headunit. Connects2 (brand) offer interfaces. In one GTA that I worked on, it had an ignition wire in the plug (as opposed to relying on CANBUS alone); so the Connects2 CTSAR001 would be the right interface. But without that wire, you'd need the CTSAR003. I can't advise without seeing or checking the wiring, so seek professional advice if you are unsure (ie: visit a good specialist car audio store). A patch lead is required b/w the interface and headunit; differs according to brand headunit (eg: CTALPINELEAD for an Alpine headunit).

[Cool Jesus]

Try Marine head units, its a larger market in the USA and fairly cheap at that (if you can wait for delivery). They are also just as feature packed as the car units, although having that marine tag I can see them having an extra surcharge on the price?
Here's a couple of links to AUS market for clarion and alpine, not sure what they cost, again I reckon US market will be cheaper...
http://www.alpine.com.au/showPage.php?pid=219
http://www.clarion.com/au/en/products/2012/marine/source_units/M309/au-en-product-pf_1259617388972.html

This was only after a quick search on the www, I'm sure you'll find something that will suite the dash. Very true that car audio has gone to the dark side now, they seem to be marketing the coloured displays.

[flipch]

Thanks Gents,

Finally got myself a Clarion DXZ856MP, all silver and with a touch screen.  It is new, but an old model so go it for a good price, just lacks USB and BT, but I had it fitted with an aux cable into the cabin  to run to my phone or MP3 player etc.

Cost me $528 to fit the HU, tweeters, crossovers for my A/D/S 356cs front speakers, power cable to battery and get it ready for an amp.   I'd already fitted front speakers and run most of the cables.  They provided the Connects 2 interface and fascia.  I should have insisted on getting the latter myself as they charged too much, but atleast it was on them for it to fit and work.

Problem is the Response Amp I got for it a year ago is said to be faulty.  They tested it twice and said it was ok beforehand, but when the ran it with the system they said it was running 10 ohmns on the left and 5.9 on the right, and that the amp was stuffed.   Another tech there said later it could be the speakers that have caused the problem.   

They offered my an Alpine PMX F640 4x5orms for $300.    Cash converters have a Pioneer GM 6500F, 2011 model, unused, 760w peak for a bit over $100, and a Rockford Fosgate P4004 Punch which I gather is 4x50w rms, for just under $300.   Both would have 3 mth warranties.  The Pioneer and Alpine are at least more compact than the Response so should fit without having to build a frame or box.

I have already paid more than I wanted to, but don't want to ruin the setup with an amp that becomes the weak link.   I don't need huge volume, looking for quality of sound which the A/D/S and Clarion are supposed to produce.  More light rock, R&B, 60's-70's music, nothing heavy.    If I can find something better value than any of the above I am prepared to look farther afield.  I may try and get the Response repaired at some stage, but may not be worth it.  I paid $175 including freight from memory.

Appreciate your advice,

Phil

[shiny_car]

Good that you found an older model HU to suit.

Pity about the Jaycar amp.
Both the Pioneer and Alpine are limited by the xover filters; they are 'fixed' at 80Hz. That probably suits the speakers ok, but doesn't allow you to experiment to find something more suitable. If you don't play the stereo loudly, you could afford a lower setting for more bass (eg: 60Hz); if you like it really loud, then too much bass will cause the speakers to distort prematurely, so filtering out the bass with a higher setting (eg: 100Hz) would be better.

The current model Alpine MRX-F35 is better in many ways, and streetprice is probably cheaper at a place like JB HiFi (esp if you wait for a 30% off car audio day). More efficient (Class D topology) makes for more power, smaller footprint, and has variable frequency xover filters.
http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=272

[flipch]

Thanks Shiny!

Great to have your expertise.   The more I looked at other amps the more the MRX-F35 stood out.  I watched a particularly helpful Alpine video that compared the X series with the V's.   Similar advantages over the PMX F640 the fitter/dealer was recommending.   Ended up getting the MRX-F35 for $268 inc. postage, so a much better value for money.

Currently without the amp the Clarion HU plays just through the rears, which surprised me as I thought there would be no audio until an amp was in.  I would gather this means they have run the old wiring from the rears from the HU as before, and are only running the fronts through the amp.   Also the steering controls don't work at present, hoping that is because the control runs through the amp.

My real concern is that the problem with the Response amp may have come because of the front A/D/S 356cs's /crossovers having some fault, which might now impact the new Alpine amp.   Any way of figuring that out without just going ahead and fitting the new amp and seeing what happens?   

Thanks again, I am sure I will be back getting suggestions for tuning the system when it is hopefully safely up and running.  Dropping the crossover down closer to 60Hz sounds like the place to start.

Thanks again,

Phil

[shiny_car]

The steering wheel controls should be working. It is unrelated to having an amplifier. So have it checked out; possibly not hooked up properly. Also check if the Clarion needs to have that function turned on.

It would be unusual for faulty speakers/passive crossovers to 'take out' an amplifier. Alpine's have good protection circuitry, so if there's a fault with the speakers (eg: so far as having a short circuit), the amp will go into protection mode until rectified, and should not be damaged.

[flipch]

  Very reassuring, good to know.   I called the fitter and they will look at the Connects set up when they complete the new amp install.

I took the lid of the Response amp.  Very impressive, but not very efficient use of space (it is very long and wide).  The Alpine is going to fit in the boot much more easily, probably a third of the size.   They are going to run the rears to the amp.

The Clarion DXZ856MP looks great, though as others had mentioned, it sticks out from the dash a bit, but in some ways that means the lack of exact matching of colour and shape is less apparent.  The touch screen is easy to use, just have to figure out the basic settings.  The motorised function revealing the CD slot is a nice bit of techy pzazz.

Regards,
Phil

[flipch]

I setup the time and stations on the Clarion HU on Wednesday, setting all the slots for AM station preferences.   When I turned it on today it had lost the time and the stations.  It doesn't stay on after the ignition is turned off.  I had told the fitters that Alfas have some different wiring and gave them some printed info from one of the other forums.   Hopefully they are smart enough to connect it properly on Monday when the amp goes in, but I am starting to wonder.    They insisted twasn't CANBUS and ordered and fitted the CT-ars-001.  What power wire should they have connected to that isn't ignition sensitive.   Is there an ACC one they should use?

[flipch]

Amp hasn't arrived yet, so had to postpone fitting until mid next week.  Fitters admitted it is CANBUS and will try to remedy the power issue.

[shiny_car]

There is CANBUS, but it isn't required to operate an aftermarket headunit.

Losing settings does indeed suggest the wiring is incorrect. 'The other forum' my be the Guideline I have written on AO.
It should be very easy to swap over the two relevant powerwires:
1. main power supply to run headunit and keep settings: should be in position A7 and may be labelled 'Ub' (conventionally in position A4, hence it's swapped in Alfas); need to be redirected to the yellow Clarion wire (Clarion 'constant' wire)
2. switched ignitoin wire that trigger headunit on/off when turning ignition key: this goes to 0V when you turn off the car; hence, if this is incorrectly connected to the Clarion's main wire, you lose all settings; should be in position A4 (conventionally in A7), and labelled with a 'switch' icon; need to go to the Clarion's red 'ACC' wire (Accessories)

Seems shoddy work to me. They have obviously fitted it without testing = rushed work.

[flipch]

Thanks Shiny!

Where would we do without you 

[shiny_car]

  Someone else would fill in for me. 

[flipch]

  the saga goes on some more...

Had the new Alpine amp fitted today.   But they hadn't secured the drivers door tweeter, so got them to put some sikaflex on it as they'd done with the passenger side. 

Drove off and did a couple of things around town.  Played a bit with the Clarion HU to get the front rear speaker fade better.   All sounded ok, but then there was a quiet snap sound and the a/d/s front speakers stopped and I only had the rears (originals).   Went back to the fitters.  After the Response amp smoking and them getting a reading of 10 ohm and 5.9 ohm from the speakers (crossovers?) I figured perhaps the a/d/s crossovers are problematic.    I ran the a/d/s speakers from the original Blaupunkt h/u for a year or so without any problems, but as soon as they put in the crossovers the problems seem to have started (the Response amp blowing smoke and now the front speakers getting cut out).  The only thing of any significance that I changed in the h/u settings was to change the ADF setting

If I turn the Clarion off and then back on in a few seconds, the fronts are back in business again.   Would it be the crossovers, the amp or the h/u that is cutting them out?  I was guessing it is the amp, but the "snap/crack" sounds like it is coming from the passengers door (crossover)...

The fitters admitted "we aren't technicians, just product fitters and sales".   Of course they want me to ditch the a/d/s setup and buy some Alpine R's ($350) and say it isn't worth trying to fix the crossovers.  One suggested just replacing the x/overs with Jaycar universal ones, the other said that wasn't a good idea.

Secondly, the manager said he looked into the Clarion DXZ856MP h/u, and even called Clarion, and said that they won't work with the steering controls, which is one more problem.

For reference there is a manual for the a/d/s woofers and xovers at; http://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/og/ads-mobile/G39301.06_04-04.pdf


Regards,
Phil

[shiny_car]

There may indeed be something wrong with the speakers/crossovers. If possible, pull them out, and bench test them. Trouble is, you may not have spare equipment to do this, but a good shop/installer would. Though, a simple inspection of the xovers may reveal the problem: look for a broken dry solder joint, which could be the issue; or stray wiring, something that is shorting out.

Alternatively, one of the speaker terminals or wires is shorting out (ie: an installation fault).

Seems you've been sold a headunit that isn't meeting your needs. I think you'd have every right to obtain a refund if you wanted (or on the steering wheel control interface they sold you!).

Honestly, I think the shop could be doing a lot better. They have sold you an inappropriate headunit, installed a system without checking it all works properly (steering controls, powerwiring to headunit), and presumably can't be bothered to trouble shoot your speakers. Hey, I could do some testing and I'm not a technician! They presumably have full demo boards, so it's not hard to hook your speakers up to an amp that is already up and running!

If you wish to discuss your retailer and want an alternative one, PM me.