advice needed how to get fluid to master and slave clutch cylinder

[THEG105]

ok, i have replaced all seals in master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder pumping ...... pumping ............30 minutes later.......still no pedal
have refilled oil resevoir
i have a 1980 sud ti
what am i doing wrong

help needed

[Andrew Bose]

Hi there,
I have previously removed the circlip holding the slave cylinder in and raised the it, whilst the hydraulic line is still attached, above the Master cylinder as they do not like to push air bubbles down. The other way to try is to bleed slowly along the lines, start at the master cylinder then at the line at the slave cylinder end and finally at the bleed nipple. If you get stuck send me a PM with your phone number and I'll give you a call to try and explain what I mean.   

Good Luck.
Andrew

[dehne]

hi, sort of had the same problem the other week, would pump for ages and get nothing, the pedal and no resistance at all, I undid the metal line that goes to the slave and looked someone else puched the pedal and nothing i then forced fluid into the master and still nothin, was getting a little piss by this time then i had a brilliant idea, give the master a tap with a spanned and then I hear a noise the piston must of got stuck, then within 3 mins all bled and driving maybe you have same prob.

[THEG105]

my number is 0479071600  thanks andrew

was going to try a syringe and suck it from the slave cyclinder bleed nipple

cheers guys for advice great forum 

[colcol]

I had a similar problem, remove horrible circlip from the back of the clutch slave cylinder, pull slave cylinder towards front of car, undo solid fluid pipe from slave cylinder, put solid pipe in baked beans can or similar [empty], get golf tee, with an assistant, get them to slowly push clutch pedal to floor, then keep pedal on floor, then you put the golf tee in solid fluid pipe, and let pedal up slowly from floor, remove golf tee from pipe, have assistant push clutch pedal to floor, put golf tee in solid pipe, then raise pedal off floor, repeat this until fluid comes out of pipe, then connect pipe to slave cylinder, put slave cylinder back in bell housing, and bleed the slave cylinder through bleed nipple in slave cylinder, put plastic see thru hose on  nipple, put hose in baked beans tin, [empty], open bleed nipple, have assistant push clutch pedal to floor, when on floor, close bleed nipple, and release clutch pedal, repeat this until clean fluid emerges from hose without bubbles, sometimes what can happen is that, you are drawing air into the system, as you are pumping, not drawing fluid in, so if you block off the air, it will have to draw fluid in as a displacement for air, always use the "DOWN-UP" method of bleeding, and don't use 1 person bleeding hoses, as they don't work, as i found out this way, the valve opens and shuts and draws air in, much easier bleeding Suds and 33's than 156's and 147's, your neighbours will complain about the bad language, doing the later ones!, Colin.

[Frank Musco]

I suggest the master cylinder should be bench bleed before fitting to the car.
This is so when you initially pump the pedal, fluid will make its way to the slave, and when lifting off the pedal, the master draws fluid from the reservoir.

When the master and slave are fitted empty, or full of air, what happens is you compress the air in the supply line to the slave and the slave itself, which then tends to simply decompress when lifting off the pedal, and no fluid is drawn into the master.

You can bleed the master in the car. You need two people.
Put your mate in the car, then completely remove the supply line to the slave, from the master cylinder.
Then put your finger over the outlet and ask your mate to gently press the pedal to the floor and hold it there, while you let the pressure created by the master to leak/bleed from the master.
When you notice there is no pressure, completely cover the outlet with your finger, making it air tight, NOW ask your mate to slowly remove their foot from the pedal, which will make the master draw fluid from the reservoir. Repeat this until you only have fluid leaking out, NO AIR.

Careful, because depending how you hold your tongue, fluid will squirt out everywhere, in your EYES, in your engine bay and even all over the rest of your paintwork, and brake fluid quickly attacks your paint.

Then you connect the slave supply line and bleed the system like usual.

OR

Make yourself the awesome bleeding tool which Forum member MD posted, not sure how to find it for you, but its the one which you pressurise the fluid reservoir using a hose connected to your wheel which is deflated to around 10psi, and attaches to a spare reservoir cap, works every time, is quick, you only need yourself, and you don't have to press the pedal which can be a problem with old masters with the bottom half corroded.

To catch the brake fluid get some rubber vacuum type hose which you can place over the bleed nipple, then get an old clear glass jar, make a hole in the lid so you can put the hose through, which should not be air tight, so air can escape. Keep the jar upright and the hose at the bottom, under the fluid level, so when you finish, before you tighten the bleed nipple, air cannot go back up the hose into the slave. I like using the glass jar so when I bleed brakes I can easily see when the clean fluid begins filling the jar, but be careful where you place the jar because if it falls it will usually break, and fluid everywhere as well as the possibility of air being drawn back up the hose into the calipers/slave. You can also easily see the air escaping as bubbles, so no more bubbles and you close the nipple and you should be finished.