Alfa 911

aggie57 · June 13, 2012, 08:14:10 AM

Just seems so, well, dumb! I mean putting metal plugs in a floor under carpet in a place where moisture is always going to collect....

alfa duk · June 13, 2012, 05:19:58 PM

There was a reason for this design so i have been told. It was there for running wiring under the car if required.
We have politicians that need to justify their positions, Italians have engineers

julianB · July 05, 2012, 11:32:10 PM

Hi Julian/gents,

My plugs were a little rough, but mostly good. Stripped them to bare, had them re primed and are now back in.

just a thought re: sound deadening- I took about 13kg of the bitumen off the floor.

The dry ice is meant to be really good- it's meant to break off in large sheets. I did it with a hammer and blunt chisel/fat headed screwdriver- none of the floor priming was touched, and it took myself and two mates about 3 hours- boot and all.

You've said you don't want to go down this path, but I'm going to point you in the direction of www.lizardskin.com -

It cost me about $600 for heat and sound insulation material and the special paint gun required to paint it.

The panel beaters I'm using were (rightly so) sceptical about the stuff, so they painted it on half a scrap sheet of metal.

When heated with a paint stripping gun, the unpainted metal is so hot that you can barely touch it. However, the half with lizardskin painted on it is cool enough that you can rest your entire hand on it (while heat is still being applied from the underside).

Mine was dusted with a light coat of red (for the girls- they love a bit of colour

)

It's credit card thick- it would weigh nothing.

Keep the thread coming mate- I won't hijack anymore!

GTVeloce · July 06, 2012, 10:49:28 AM

Hi Julian

The pics are great! And this lizardskin stuff sounds very interesting. It's a shame as I have already bought (and mostly installed) Dynamat, Dynaliner and Dynapad.

I like the bonnet on your car - GTV6 superleggera! Could be fun putting a seat in the car, some goggles and taking the car for a fang! It would be extremely light.

Seriously, what is the plan for the bonnet? Do you have a cover, or are you going down the suck-in-small-furry-animals (scoop) path?

julianB · July 06, 2012, 11:55:23 AM

My car was orginally a 2.0- that's the old bonnet- I drove it around with a carbon fibre skinned v6 bonnet with pins for about 5 years. I've cut the hole in the old bonnet to clear the plenum, having a fibreglass moulding of the Zender hump grafted on and cutting the vents out (my engine is fairly worked and creates a bit of heat)- sometime next year, I'll be doing a six throttle conversion, so it will breathe through there as well. I'll start my own topic shortly!

Keep them coming Jules!

MD · July 06, 2012, 07:41:23 PM

I was wondering how long it would take you get here..

Nice going guys.

julianB · July 06, 2012, 10:27:41 PM

Too funny, Mike

I've been in the gtv6.com vortex for too long!

GTVeloce · August 21, 2012, 12:39:19 PM

Finally an update! Due to a number of reasons not much has happened over the past couple of months but I can finally say things are progressing again.

Firstly, I have almost finished the engine bay. The only thing left to do is to tidy up the wiring on the right hand fender, then pour a little oil on the valve gear before starting.

I have also finished placing dynamat in the interior and have started with the dynapad to replace the original underlay. A picture tells a thousand words, so...

As you can see from the interior shot, still a long way to go.

GTVeloce · September 24, 2012, 03:54:17 PM

Have begun putting some of the interior trim back in and have put in the dynapad. It wasn't too hard except trying to go over the tunnel, especially at the back under where the rear seats go. Next up is the carpet and sub box. Then I need to start making sense of the spaghetti that is where the dash needs to go. Part of the problem is I have a new column switch gear which needs to be wired in so plenty of time with the wiring diagrams. I will be fluent in italian colours by the end! As well as colourful language...

Also, does anybody have an interior door handle (RHS)? Mine has broken where it attaches to the rod to the mechanism. I suspect any of the later GTV(6) ones should fit, not sure about early cars.

Thanks
Julian

GTVeloce · October 12, 2012, 02:35:52 PM

Another small update I'm afraid. Still working on the interior and have managed to temporarily finish the doors. I say temporarily as I intend to recover the door skins in leather once I know what the seat colour is going to be.

The first pic is the protective plastic in place. I have covered it with dynaliner to help absorb noise and heat into the cabin. This is the thinnest dynaliner designed specifically for this job (1/8in thick from memory).

The second pic is the door skin in place. Excuse the quality - the sun was just in the wrong position. Also, the front speakers are still coming (5in components) hence the hole however, the wiring is all in place as is the relays for the power windows.

Next week I will get to put the front suspension back together, hopefully!

Midda Samid · October 15, 2012, 11:59:18 AM

Great looking doorskins.. are they new? If so, who did them?

GTVeloce · October 16, 2012, 10:35:14 AM

They're completely original! I am looking to get them re-covered (in leather) but I might find another set of faded ones first so as to keep these as is.

GTVeloce · November 07, 2012, 12:11:00 PM

Finally a few updates. Quite a lot has been done over the past few weeks, the main thing being the front suspension rebuild. New ball joints all round including PACE long shank upper ball joint as well as 28mm bars. Had the usual fun trying to get it all back together properly but managed to just as I was running out f time. The good news is ride height is dead level (<1mm) on both sides, the bad news I discovered once I got the wheels back on etc is the ride height is way off. Probably would have been fine with the original TB's given the amount flex but with the 28's I am a good 50mm too high. Sigh! Another job to do later.

I replaced the sock filter that's on the end of the in-tank fuel pump. I couldn't find the correct one but the one from an American SPICA injected car fits perfectly. Much happier now that's done as I didn't like not having something there (see the pic for the condition of the old one).

I have also almost finished the wiring modifications which has been a major undertaking. However I have a couple of questions if anyone can help.
1) The hazard switch has one too many wires going to it. From the wiring diagram I think the spare might be a Red/Black wire that appears to loop back on itself (see pic - sorry for the quality). It's a short loop so I can't see where else it might go but the wiring diagram only mentions one Red/Black wire.

2) The central locking kit has a cable to attach to the direction indicators. However, I can't work out where to attach this so that both sides light up and that bypasses the switch. Any thoughts where to attach this? Maybe the hazard switch again?!?

3) The new switchgear (indicators, wipers and lights) has a cable that I have been able to ascertain is only for flashing high beam (pulling back on the lights lever). However, the wiring diagrams don't appear to show a cable for this operation so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do. How does it normally work? Does the switch just normally operate the standard high beam connection?

Thanks in advance.
Julian

festy · November 07, 2012, 12:32:00 PM

Quote3) The new switchgear (indicators, wipers and lights) has a cable that I have been able to ascertain is only for flashing high beam (pulling back on the lights lever). However, the wiring diagrams don't appear to show a cable for this operation so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do. How does it normally work? Does the switch just normally operate the standard high beam connection?

The difference between normal high beam and "flash" high beam is that the high beams won't normally come on without the lights switched on, but the flash operation switches them on independent of the parker/light circuits - so the additional wire may be a power feed (or earth, I can't remember if they're high or low switched in the alfettas...)

Midda Samid · November 23, 2012, 02:30:37 PM

Hi, the intank fuel pump, is this a mod or did it come standard on the GTV6's??

If the answer is "it's standard on the GTV6" then I ask, will a GTV6 fuel tank fit in a 4cyl car? I have a custom fuel system for my injected 4cyl and it's currently all mounted in the boot.. I want my boot back and that is certainly a way to reclaim some space.. injector pump and surge tank is planned for remounting on underside of boot floor above the watts link if i can move the pickup pump from there...