Keyless entry for Alfa 75

[Evan Bottcher]

Has anyone added a keyless entry kit to an Alfa 75? 

I'm trying to find the door lock control module - on the LHD cars it's meant to be above the fusebox (behind the little stow compartment).  I pulled the compartment out tonight and there's a LOT of wiring in there above the fuse box, but I see no control box.

I may be paddling without an oar here...

[dehne]

I've been trying to do that to my 90 and no luck yet either

[GTVeloce]

I've just installed a keyless entry kit into my GTV and while doing it I thought about installing one into the 75 as well. Interestingly, the kit I bought used identical solenoids. I suspect the easiest way to install one is to buy and install the whole system but use the existing mounting brackets for the new solenoids. It's quite easy to install - the hardest part would be running the wiring out to all the doors! My kit (4 door) was $100.

[Evan Bottcher]

My understanding - the keyless entry module needs to tap into the lock and unlock wires that go to the door lock controller.  I've found some references online, but for the Milano (US LHD model).

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/diagram.asp?ModelID=12739&MakeID=7&link=Bulldog

This shows that that the power lock is a purple/white wire and the power unlock is a brown/white wire.  It also indicates that the function is negative triggered (which the keyless entry module I have supports).  The wiring matches what is shown in the electrical section of the manual (from http://www.users.on.net/~craigf/) which is presumably also LHD.

Tonight I'll have a proper look under the dash and try to trace wires from the fusebox - bloody hell it's packed in there though!

[rowan_bris]

I had it done by an auto electrician years ago when an immobiliser was required for insurance on a 75 and it only cost about $250 with the immobiliser

[Darryl]

I've done it, and those wire colours sound right - in any case whatever is on the diagrams from Craig's was right in my twinspark. It was long enough ago that I've since forgotten where I found the wires - but it wasn't too hard...

[Sheldon McIntosh]

I'm watching this thread with interest, I need to do the same to my 90.  Worst case scenario, you could just put an actuator on the drivers door, since once that unlocks it unlocks all the other doors too?

The boot may be trickier.

[Beatle]

Sheldon, I was of the impression that that is how the cheaper kits are designed, for use on vehicles where the other door locks are slaved off the drivers door lock.  One actuator only is installed to operate the drivers door.  As you say, boot would be trickier, but I'm sure someone must make a kit with an extra boot actuator operating off a different frequency to the door actuator.

[Darryl]

I have an uninstalled universal solenoid (designed to attach to a cable release mechanism)  somewhere and the immobilizer unit I bought + remote with 2 buttons supports (among other things) running the boot actuator off the other button. All doable but at the end of the day I couldn't be bothered installing the solenoid etc... I will change my mind if the cable release ever fails...

[Evan Bottcher]

The $40 kit I bought to experiment with has keyless entry designed to wire into the existing circuit, plus a boot opening function (2 seconds on the unlock button).  The boot release is a separate line out, I'm betting it would need a relay to run a solenoid for the boot release.

This is the one I bought, no great loss if I don't get anywhere
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230652866106?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3487wt_1144

[colcol]

Evan, i did the same in my 33, the solenoid was mounted on the tail light mounts, so the solenoid got a straight pull with the cable, with the wires supplied, their was not enough power to click the lock, so i ran some heavier wires from the engine bay, still not good, ran a relay next to the solenoid with the same heavy wires and presto, boot opens, shows how important NOT to get voltage drop, and the central locking, i found out on the master central locking relay what wires lock and unlock the doors and if it was positive or negative power unlocking doors, then i picked up the terminals on the keyless controller, that controlled the lock and unlock, on my controller there were 2 positive and 2 negative terminals, so its just a case of picking up the correct positive or negative terminal to lock-unlock and on mine you could have the doors locking when you got to 10kph, had it connected, but disconnected, as it still frightens you when it goes click, Colin.

[shiny_car]

I'll follow this thread with interest too. I am going to fit an alarm for remote central locking, and a PO fitted a boot lock solenoid, but it is currently disconnected from what I can gather. I will have to sort out the wiring and do testing, then integrate with the alarm.

Alarm/immobiliser systems with a '2nd channel' are suitable for operating things like boot solenoids.
Jaycar sell a suitable solenoid: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8834&CATID=92&form=CAT2#5
Be mindful that they tend to require a reasonably robust power supply, so I'd fit something like 12 gauge powerwire/ground with a 30A fuse.

My understanding - the keyless entry module needs to tap into the lock and unlock wires that go to the door lock controller.  I've found some references online, but for the Milano (US LHD model).

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/diagram.asp?ModelID=12739&MakeID=7&link=Bulldog

I also found this link, on a site I often refer to for car audio/autoelecs: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/214.html

Interestingly, it refers to the central locking 'door lock' and 'door unlock' wires the other way around! So you may need to test.

[Brad M]

Any updates Evan?

[Evan Bottcher]

Any updates Evan?

I remembered that my car once had an alarm system fitted - there's still the loudspeaker under the bonnet - although it's no longer active AFAICT.  The locking module seems to have been moved from it's position above the fuse box.  Through the aperture provided by extracting the little stowage box above the fuse box, I can see the correct set of wires behind the dash, but disappearing upwards to where I can't reach - possibly to the alarm control module I'm thinking.  I think I would need to remove the dash to do this job properly, a job I'm a bit loathe to start right now.  The fallback position would be to wire up the new module to the existing lock actuators, again not something I'm that keen to do.

Got some mechanical work to do on the car in the next couple of weeks before going on a long road trip end of March, so I think I'll leave the keyless entry for another day.

[Luckyphil]

for what it's worth, it looks like the 75 I am making into a rally car has factory keyless central locking which is being stripped out atm, if you want the whole system let me know.
Phil