Author Topic: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6  (Read 348138 times)

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Hudders

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #375 on: January 24, 2020, 02:26:09 AM »
Brilliant thread and a brilliant resource for people restoring these great cars.
Many thanks for putting so much detail into of your posts and your photography puts the rest of us to shame.

I found this thread while trying to get details of the underside of a 75 and I found it surprisingly difficult.
This thread is a lifesaver.

I'm doing up a twin spark LE at the moment and trying to keep it factory.
Unfortunately it's in a lot worse shape than yours and I'm certainly not the first person to work on it so a lot of bodges had to be removed and I've no idea of how many of the original details were e.g. pipe runs etc.

If anyone's interested my efforts are on the UK website "Mig welding forum"
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/25-year-old-alfa-75-back-from-the-brink-hopefully.81348/

admin, feel free to delete the link if it's not allowed

Thanks again

As a fellow 75 owner from England, I will be following your build with interest, my 75 has rust, how much I as yet don't know but what I do know is it is certainly more than the tiny little scabs on Shiny's, not jealous about dry Australian cars at all, lol.
« Last Edit: January 24, 2020, 04:10:14 AM by Hudders »
Alfa 75 3.0 V6 (1988)

arristoss

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #376 on: June 24, 2020, 02:16:58 AM »
Hello to everyone. Can anyne tell me where i can find those strange switch bulb holders as shown in the page 22?

shiny_car

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #377 on: July 01, 2020, 05:57:29 AM »
Hello to everyone. Can anyne tell me where i can find those strange switch bulb holders as shown in the page 22?

I doubt that you can buy new-unused original ones separately. Probably best to buy a used switch that includes the bulb holder.
GT . 3.2 V6 . Q2 . Kyalami Black - Red
155 . 2.0 8V . Gunmetal Grey - Grey
75 . 3.0 V6 . Alfa Red - Grey

shiny_car

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #378 on: May 12, 2021, 08:22:56 PM »
Hello again!

Wow, it's been 5 years since I posted any work on the car.  And unfortunately, during this time I have not made opportunity to continue.  But now, after years of wanting to, pondering, wishing I made time, what was 2020  :-X ...I have redeveloped the passion to recommence!

Because it's been 5 years, I've had to relearn everything I knew about 75's, by reading scores of forum topics (here, including readings this very topic (!), AlfaBB.com, elsewhere), rummaging through my old notes, creating a full inventory of all my parts, and refreshing the overall plan.  Though, I've learnt many new things along the way, and through research, I've decided to take the car to another level.  :o

The major difference to my initial dream - now 10 years ago when I bought the car! - is to go the full hog with the engine, and go with programmable fuel injection.  I'm yet to finalise any details; and work on this particular development may be a year away after I complete many other things, but my plan includes:
- programmable system, likely Autronic, if I purchase from Beninca Motors and utilise their skills and advice to make it happen
- this means ditch the airflow meter, and go with MAP (manifold absolute pressure) / IAT (intake air temperature) / CTS (coolant temp sensor) / crank pulley timing wheel and VR (variable reluctor) sensor / potentiometer TPS (throttle position sensor); I've already made some inroads with some of the gear
- COPs (coil on plug) ignition, and ditch the distributor and high tension wires
- yet to decide whether I want any, or combination of, wide band Lambda/O2 sensor and AFR (air fuel ratio) meter, EGT (exhaust gas temp), fuel pressure sensor, knock sensors; I don't believe any of these will add to the day-to-day performance once the car is properly tuned, but I might add a batch of gauges in the interior
- cams: I've ordered a set of RJ (Richard Jemison, who is a regular on AlfaBB.com forums) cams from the US, and decided on a high performance 'street' cam that optimises both torque and power for the road
- very minor head clean-up / porting, which I presume Beninca can perform
- largely a complete engine rebuild, with 10:1 CR (compression ratio) pistons (as fitted to the Potenziata)

Of course, that means an engine-out job, but I'm also motivated by needing to replace the leaking rear main seal.  So whilst I'm there...  ;)

For this return-post, I'm showing just some of the parts that I've bought, much of it very recently:

Though, firstly, this is the Evolutione bodykit that I bought from JOHN G (you in Oz at the moment mate?!).  From what I can tell and recall, it's the real deal, or at least it's a very high quality kit.  I never did ask where he got it from originally.  Compared with the flimsy stuff that I contemplated repairing and fitting (ie: the pieces that used to belong to jazig.k; I posted some pics of these on Oct 06 2013), this kit is very solid, and thus relatively heavy despite being fibreglass.  Some minor repairs are required for the front bumper 'slats' where it's cracked, but nothing major.















BMC CDA (Carbon Dynamic Airbox) and aftermarket 75/SZ-specific parallel-flow aircon condenser.  Not everyone approves of custom air intakes and filters, but some seem better than others; because this setup is fully enclosed, I can create some form of cold air intake.



Now onto some more serious stuff, the full RSR (Ron Simons Racing) adjustable suspension setup.  From the decals, you can see it's built by Intrax; the Intrax catalogue lists its own large range of suspension setups for this car (including far more serious racing upgrades), but this is one of the sets designed/tuned to Ron Simons's specs.  Of the two kits he created, this is the adjustable-shock absorber version (for combined compression + rebound); having fitted various suspension parts to my cars over the years, I've always found any non-adjustable setup to be a little lacking, so I am happy to stump up the extra for some fine tuning ability.

The kits are available directly through RSR (I'm speculating/observing here, but I think Ron Simons was bought-out by another company but they still utilise the name): https://www.trackmodified.com/product/alfa-romeo/

However, I bought from OKP in Germany, who sell the kit, and held an Easter sale: https://www.okp.de/xtc2/

After researching what suspension options were available, I determined that the RSR kit had very favourable feedback from users, provides a very complete setup, and is readily available.  There's undoubtedly cheaper setups, and possibly 'better' setups (though that may be subjective), but this has always been my dream kit.  So here it is.



Front coilover: this works with the original torsion bars (ie: doesn't replace them), and provides the adjustable shock absorber, and adds another spring for increased spring rate.  The thin red spring is a 'helper spring' to keep the main spring in position during full extension.  The threaded adjustable platform can alter tension, but mostly caters for whatever ride height you choose (ie: after setting the ride height via the torsion bars, you can then dial-in the coil spring tension).  The black, knurled knob near the bottom bracket twists, to make the compression/rebound adjustment.





Rear springs sit on adjustable platforms to alter ride height.





Rear springs and shocks fit in the standard location points.  Shocks adjustable from the top.





Front antiroll bar seems a crazy 30mm diameter!  Maybe it's rubber  :P except it's quite heavy, so I figure it's steel.  ;D Rose/rod-end/heim joints affix the ends to the lower suspension arms.  I will add rubber boots to cover the joints and keep them clean, and I have reinforcement plates that need welding to the chassis where the bar is bolted in place.



Rear antiroll bar is 26mm diameter, and adjustable via the different attachment holes.  Rather fancy looking billet 'brackets' attach to the original De Dion mounts.



To round out the suspension, I have the Watt linkage parts (it's part of the package, but I bought it separately years ago when someone in the UK was selling it, unused), and De Dion spherical bearing.





Next: these parts are from Chris Snowdon Racing (operated by Richard Melvin, an experienced UK campaigner).  Richard is great to deal with, and some of the racing parts on offer are quite serious but unfortunately go beyond what even I consider appropriate for a street car (yes, some of my parts might not have ADR certification, but I think an engineer might find they would meet the standard if required...maybe!).

https://alfettagtv6.co.uk/



For the front suspension, these are extended-pin upper ball joints, the sealed version (ie: feature the metal cap + rubber boot for protection).  Some of you may use knuckle-risers, which achieve the same outcome, to raise the end of the upper suspension arm into a more favourable position (for better camber during cornering).





This is a reinforced clutch housing.  I probably don't need it, but hey, why not?!  If I achieve 250-260 hp (~190kW) from the engine I'll be happy, but that still probably wouldn't crack the original housing; not from driving on the street.  But this is something fancy!





And a few extra bits and pieces.  Here is a crankshaft pulley from a 164 featuring a '60-2' toothed timing wheel.  Apparently this can be pressed-off, then the 75's pulley needs some minor machining (to make slightly smaller diameter), before being pressed onto it.  It's seemingly impossible to find an original Potenziata pulley with the wheel, but one advantage of keeping my original pulley is that it's already balanced with the crankshaft and flywheel, so the toothed wheel shouldn't impact in that regard.  'Timing' is achieved with a VR (variable reluctor) sensor that is 'in the post', but I also have an original mounting bracket.  And because the timing wheel creates a bigger overall diameter pulley, this fouls against a standard water pump pulley; hence, the need to change to a Potenziata setup, which means a water pump shown here, that uses a separate smaller diameter bolt-on pulley...that's 'in the post'  :P .  I hope it fits!





Lastly, an LSD upgrade kit, from Racing Diffs.  This will refurbish the factory diff, but with 4 friction plates instead of 2.  Nice, complete kit from the looks.

https://www.racingdiffs.com/products/alfa-romeo-lsd-clutch-kit





It's nice to be back - posting - and of course getting my hands dirty again.  I don't know whether I'll be posting every month like before, but I'll post when there's a worthwhile update on progress.

Thanks for looking...again.  :)
« Last Edit: June 07, 2021, 08:12:18 PM by shiny_car »
GT . 3.2 V6 . Q2 . Kyalami Black - Red
155 . 2.0 8V . Gunmetal Grey - Grey
75 . 3.0 V6 . Alfa Red - Grey

GTVeloce

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #379 on: May 13, 2021, 12:15:36 PM »
Great to see you back posting and with such shiny parts! Serious part envy here.

Although, no electric water pump?  ::)

shiny_car

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #380 on: May 14, 2021, 06:20:54 PM »
Although, no electric water pump?  ::)

Hmmm *strokes chin*.  :P
GT . 3.2 V6 . Q2 . Kyalami Black - Red
155 . 2.0 8V . Gunmetal Grey - Grey
75 . 3.0 V6 . Alfa Red - Grey

shiny_car

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #381 on: June 08, 2021, 10:15:12 PM »
I've pleasingly made time to work on the car, so there's been some good progress, and new parts continue to make their way from various parts of the world onto my shelves.

I spent my first session removing the transaxle from the vehicle.  That was quite straight forward.  Then spent the next group of days stripping it.  Some of that wasn't so straight forward!

Part 1

Firstly, the front wheels were chocked, and then the rear was raised onto axle stands.  Silver stands support the vehicle by the jack points; red stands are holding the De Dion tube for the moment, but not taking the weight of the whole vehicle.  I gave the floor underneath a good vacuum and clean.



To summarise transaxle removal:
1. disconnect the minor parts: antiroll bar, shock absorbers, brake line, speed sensor, reverse gear switch, clutch line, gearshift rod, prop shaft (I'd already done this), exhaust
*coffee time*
2. disconnect the major parts: front crossmember, Watt's linkage arms, gearbox rear connection
*have another coffee*

The antiroll bar and shock absorbers were unbolted.





Shock absorbers attach to the De Dion infront of the rear wheels.  They also limit suspension travel, as I discovered; the wheels will drop to the ground if unsupported!  Hence, the axle stands under the De Dion tube were important.





Rear brake hose and handbrake cable were detached.



To prevent brake fluid from completely draining out, I wanted to leave the flexible hose connected to the hard line (pipe), and clamp the hose (which will be replaced, so no issues if it is deformed from the clamp).  However, to disconnect the far end from the T-junction, the whole hose needed to twist to unscrew, so the hose needed to be unfastened from the hard line first.  The connection between hard line and flexible hose was supported by a chassis bracket.  Handbrake cable nuts then loosened and removed from the caliper arms.





On the left side of the gearbox, the speed sensor was removed, and reverse-gear switch unscrewed.  A while ago I temporarily loosened the speed sensor and did not refit it completely, hence oil has seeped out.  The oil stains are not from leaks elsewhere!  I tucked the sensor and switch over the handbrake cable, out of the way.





Then on the right side, the hose was removed from the clutch slave cylinder.  Like the brakes, the hose needed disconnection from the hard line first, then unscrewing from the cylinder.





At the front, the gearshift rod was detached from the gearbox linkage.  The rod was cleaned and painted previously, which is why it looks clean.  Back then the roll pin had been partially reinserted (hence it's sticking out of the rod, in the photo); I couldn't pull it out easily, so had to punch it right through, and out the other side.  Prop shaft previously removed (years ago).



Last minor task, to disconnect the exhaust centre section from the rear muffler.  After loosening the clamp, the slip joint seemed seized.  The centre section is to be replaced, so I started attacking it with a reciprocal saw, only for the joint to fall apart before I'd finished!





I kept a couple pallets to hold and manoeuvre the transaxle.  I initially secured swivel wheels to the larger pallet, but then realised the smaller one was more suitable because it could fit between the car wheels.



To fit the pallet under the car, and the trolley jack beside it, I swapped-out the red axle stands supporting the De Dion tube for blocks of wood under the wheels.





The six bolts holding the front crossmember were removed (2 short, 4 long), and then lowered onto the pallet.





The Watt's Linkage arms were unbolted from the chassis.





The last disconnection point was the gearbox rear mount.  The gearbox was obviously heavy, so required support from underneath (with blocks of wood) to remove the bolt easily, before gently lowering onto the pallet.  I removed the rear muffler to make the job easier.







With the wheels removed, the whole transaxle could be rolled out. Yeh!  The springs were also wiggled out from their positions without difficulty.





/Part 1
« Last Edit: June 09, 2021, 09:13:44 AM by shiny_car »
GT . 3.2 V6 . Q2 . Kyalami Black - Red
155 . 2.0 8V . Gunmetal Grey - Grey
75 . 3.0 V6 . Alfa Red - Grey

shiny_car

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #382 on: June 08, 2021, 10:25:01 PM »
Part 2

The transaxle was ‘parked’ to one side in my garage until my next session, to dismantle it into sections.



Off came the Watt’s Linkage from the centre pin.  Bit of surface rust on the pin.







The wheel shaft was secured by a large nut, covered by a lock nut secured by a split pin.  After straightening the arms, the pin did not slip or punch out easily, hence quicker to cut the arms off first.  The lock nut simply fitted loosely over the main nut.









Temporarily refitting the wheels made it easier to ‘break’ the axle shaft bolts loose.  The axles then slipped out of position.





The inboard rear brake discs were bolted to the diff shafts via a spacer.  To break these bolts loose, I engaged the ‘handbrake’ to hold the discs stationary, using a turnbuckle and shackle I had lying around.





Pads were removed, allowing the discs to drop out.  Keep hold of the pad anti rattle clip when taking out a retaining pin, or else it will spring out…and hit you in the face (don’t ask how I know).







Brake fluid hard lines were removed.  The T-piece bolted to the gearbox, and a bracket held the righthand pipe.





Brake calipers removed from their studs.  Some surface rust on the left studs.







Clutch slave cylinder slotted through a hole, and held by circlips either side.

The rubber boot was secured by cable ties.  It appeared to be cut along the inside, presumably by a ‘lazy’ mechanic who didn’t want to remove the slave cylinder to slide the boot into position intact.





Unsurprisingly, the push rod and clutch fork were grubbier than they could have been.



Slave and clutch fork removed.







These were the chunky metal spacers that fit between the crossmember and chassis.  Their thickness on the 75 is apparently more than the GTV or Alfetta sedan.



Isostatic gearshift linkage!  Some people loathe it because the shift quality suffers when the components wear.  It does seem overly complex.  I will completely overhaul it with new aftermarket parts.  Schematic might add clarity:



Moving the gearstick fore and aft (blue arrow; eg: changing from 1st to 2nd gear) naturally moves the gearbox shift rod in and out.  Moving the gearstick side to side (eg: across from 1st/2nd to 3rd/4th row) rotates the shift rod via the Isostatic linkage (red arrows). 



The ‘engagement lever’ (#5 in schematic) pivots at this neat little rod end bearing.



The linkage bolted to this arm on the end of the shift rod.  I found a fair amount of (abnormal) free-play between the arm and rod.  A roll pin secured the arm in position.





« Last Edit: June 09, 2021, 09:27:19 AM by shiny_car »
GT . 3.2 V6 . Q2 . Kyalami Black - Red
155 . 2.0 8V . Gunmetal Grey - Grey
75 . 3.0 V6 . Alfa Red - Grey

shiny_car

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #383 on: June 08, 2021, 10:26:49 PM »
A separate bracket, bolted to the left side gearbox mount, held the Isostatic linkage.  The M6 bolt passed through the mount (red arrow) then a spacer and out the other side of the bracket.



Gearbox mounts removed, now freeing the gearbox from the suspension completely.





Around the back again: I temporarily refitted the wheel to hold the hub still, to remove the main nut.  I could not break the nut free with the wrench I had (torqued to 265-324 Nm when fitted), so out came the air impact wrench.  Tightness and rust meant it still took some effort, and penetrating oil, to be removed.

The wheel shaft was easily pushed out with a whack from a hammer.





But, oh, to remove the hub!!  I’d read about this job being one of the most difficult on the whole car, because parts seize together.  I didn’t anticipate this to be such an issue on an Australian car, compared with a vehicle in the UK driven on salted roads.

The common problem is the hub (green arrows) seizing to the bearing (red arrows).  The problem is more difficult because of the factory ‘dust shield’ fitted to the hub, which prevents tools from being used in that area (eg: to slot a bearing remover into the gap, or attach the claws of a gear puller around the De Dion).



The whole De Dion and hub don’t fit at the correct angle in a standard hydraulic press (I tried!).  I also tried a ‘big hammer’ to punch it out (with thanks to my patient wife, who held the De Dion upright without dropping it); fail.  Then I refitted it to the axles and gearbox to brace the wheel shaft, but there was too much slack in the CV joints to brace the shaft adequately. FAIL.

I was a little disheartened.  I didn’t really need to pull this section apart because the bearings felt quite smooth.  But having it in pieces would make cleaning and painting easier.  After using the big hammer, I must have damaged the bearing a little, because it was now rough and a bit sloppy.  So then I was forced to finish the job.

Look at the factory tool to brace the back of the wheel shaft!  I don't have one of these in my toolbox.  ::)
(Images courtesy of: http://www.dep-o.co.uk/features/replacing-alfetta-rear-wheel-bearing/)





The wheel shaft requires ‘fixing’ in position to use tools to pull the hub out.  I did more research, and saw many home made tools and mash-up tools to replicate the factory version.  Hoping not to spend more $$ on more equipment, I chanced upon a technique using the opposite wheel shaft as a brace.  Voila, it worked!

With the shaft braced, I could use a conventional gear puller to grasp the hub, and push against the end of the shaft.  Together with lots more penetrating oil sprayed onto the bearing/hub, a big hammer intermittently whacking the tip of the gear puller, and poking my tongue in a south easterly direction (!), the hub went TWANG and it shifted!  I gradually ‘wound’ it out, twang by twang.





The rear wheel bearing is a ‘double row’ bearing (two bearings side-by-side in one housing).  The wheel hub was successfully pulled from the inside bearing, but the outside half remained stuck to the hub.  I’d seen many photos of the same situation.  Removing the outer half is a job for the future, but shouldn’t be too bad.



The remaining parts of the bearing were the outer race and inside bearing.  And clumps of old grease; bearing probably due for replacement anyway.



Surely the left hub would be easy enough, having won the battle on the right.  No!  The rusty discolouration was perhaps a clue that it was more seized.  Aside from penetrating oil, this one required fire!  Out came the propane torch.  I focused on heating the bearing, theoretically causing it to expand and loosen from the hub; but of course, heating the hub was unavoidable.

The twang when the hub first shifted was again startling!









The bearings were secured in the De Dion by a thin retaining ‘nut’ (red arrows).  This was revealed after cleaning away the grime.  The nut will also be replaced, thus suitable to cut out.  After carefully cutting through a couple places, a segment was bent up, and then easily pulled out.





Removing the remnants of the bearings was not difficult, with tools I already had.  These included a set of drifts of various diameters (eBay: sold as Bearing Seal Drive Tool Kit), a large ball joint remover (glorified G-clamp, with its own set of drifts), and gear puller.

Starting with the ball joint remover and 64mm diameter drift, removal was initiated.  Once broken free, I used the puller to…err, push.  The claws had to be positioned out of the way.  Hmm, this step felt like it was giving birth to a bearing!  Puuuushhh, harder!  Here it comes!  Pop.









Right then left sides completed.





Lastly, unbolted the front of the De Dion triangle from the crossmember.  I manoeuvred the triangle from under the gearbox and flipped it over, to access the bolt head.





This came apart easily.  The bush looked in good shape, but will be replaced by a spherical bearing.

The silver ‘washer’ was the original spacer.  However, sandwiched between the spacer and bush, I found what looked like an exhaust hanger.  This isn’t a standard inclusion according to the Workshop Manual and ePer parts list!  I’m guessing it was fitted either as a dust seal or to reduce some clunking noise.





There were two spacer rings, above and below the bush, to help hold it in position.



All done for now - tucked away again. Everything is ready to be cleaned, repainted, replaced, and/or fixed.  I’ll clean the outside of the gearbox, then access the clutch, and crack open the ‘box to change some internal parts including the synchros.



/Part 2
« Last Edit: June 09, 2021, 10:55:18 AM by shiny_car »
GT . 3.2 V6 . Q2 . Kyalami Black - Red
155 . 2.0 8V . Gunmetal Grey - Grey
75 . 3.0 V6 . Alfa Red - Grey

shiny_car

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #384 on: June 08, 2021, 10:28:44 PM »
Part 3

Here’s a selection of more replacement parts that have arrived.  Anything and everything that can potentially be upgraded, or replaced, has been researched, considered, and sourced accordingly.  Parts have come from overseas, including the US, UK, Germany, and Italy.

CSC stainless centre exhaust section.  I thought CSC Marmitte had closed shop permanently; I read they have filed for bankruptcy three times in the past, probably four.  EB Spares supplied this, so I presume they are back in business!



This little kit from AHM, replaces the distributor with a mini shaft, bearing, and cap.

https://www.ahmotorsports.co.uk/



The water pump I originally purchased via eBay, perhaps unsurprisingly, did not fit the Potenziata pulley I bought separately.  Many internet stories about difficulty finding a water pump with the correct (small) size mounting plate that suits.  The pump I received - despite being advertised as suitable - was really a 164 pump, with larger flange.  One day I might find the right pump!





Instead, EB Spares sell this replica SZ/RZ water pump that should work.  The pulley on either setup is meant to clear the trigger wheel fitted to the crank pulley on Motronic engines, whereas the L-Jet V6 pulley dose not.  So hopefully this works!



Brise make smaller (lighter and more powerful) starter motors that are a bolt-on replacement.  This is necessary (perhaps not essential) with CSC exhaust headers fitted, which reduce the clearance with the original starter.

https://brise.co.uk/







Rear brake caliper spacer kit, modifies the calipers to accept ventilated discs.  Several vendors offer similar.  This kit is from CSR (Chris Snowden Racing), where I also purchased the front extended-pin upper ball joints and reinforced clutch housing, that I posted about last time.  The kit includes the spacers, O-ring seals, longer bolts, and longer pins.





This kit might interest some of you.  I saw it on a facebook post!  Alfonso Ciardullo, from the US, makes a mounting plate to hold a bearing for a longer cam belt that provides far more wrap around the pulley.  The kit includes all required parts, and is a direct bolt-on (except requires a small amount of the head to be ground flat near one bolt hole); the belt is a Toyota Cressida part, and bearing from a Lexus.  It was US$450 + shipping.  He has used and refined the setup in his race cars over many years, apparently without any issues.



One of Alfonso’s FB photos:



Message me if interested in contacting him.

/Part 3

That’s it for this month.  Thanks for looking!
Richard
« Last Edit: June 09, 2021, 11:02:05 AM by shiny_car »
GT . 3.2 V6 . Q2 . Kyalami Black - Red
155 . 2.0 8V . Gunmetal Grey - Grey
75 . 3.0 V6 . Alfa Red - Grey

alfagtv85

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Re: Project car - 1989 75 3.0 V6
« Reply #385 on: June 09, 2021, 09:52:05 AM »
Shiny

I have been following your post from the beginning and am really glad that you are back and working on the 75, your attention to detail is incredible and the pictures are both fantastic and informative, especially to someone who is not mechanically talented.

I use the information that you provide to work on my 75, although not to the extent that you do.

I love what you do, keep it going!
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1985 GTV 2.5
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