Hey I will be picking up an alfetta gtv and what is the best way to get it onto a trailer if it doesn't run? I am going to use the 3.5T U Hual trailer with the hand winch that comes on the trailer. Is it better to get the car on the trailer from the front of the car or from the rear of the car? What is the best place to attach the winch hook onto it?
I'd wrap a strap around the DeDion and pull it up backwards.
I nearly had a major accident on the Newell Hwy once towing an Alfasud backwards on a trailer. It was fine up to about 95kmh, beyond that it started to get the death sways and I only just managed to get it under control. Life before the eyes moment.
Unless you're driving just a few kms very slowly, I'd tow it front-facing.
HAAHAA, Beatle, wash your mouth out wash soap mate. ;D ;D
Evan is ABSOLUTLEY right. The trailer at speed gets the fish tail wag going big time and starts to steer the towing vehicle in directions you had no intentions of going. Dangerous !
Just ask me...
So to recap, load the vehicle facing forward on the trailer. I wrap a chain around both lower control arms and then pull in the centre of the chain.
That's a jacking point and not a towing point. It is only held in by 6mm bolts. Towing here may cause the distortion of the rear panel it is fixed to. To be safe with an original road vehicle that hasn't been modified with special towing hook locations, just install your towing rope to the lower control arm. See photo.
For clarity the jacking point is held in place by 4 x M6 bolts.
When it comes to corrosion and structural integrity for a race car, my best advice is to hand the job onto qualified trades people who can thoroughly examine the body work, straighten the chassis if necessary and check the suspension geometry. Apply correct welding standards for the repairs.
Based upon the skill level that I perceive you to have, I do not suggest that you carry out this work yourself. Don't bite off more than you can chew.
Cheers
Don't chop up the Alfa door. You may need it in future.....
Better to go to a wrecker, rubbish tip, or find an old wreck (of any brand) in some farmer's back yard and cut a piece of sheetmetal out of that.
Cheaper than buying a new sheet of steel (though that's an option) and old panels have paint which helps protect the sheet from surface rust while it's languishing in your garage.
Go for something pre 1990s. The metal is more likely to be softer and easier to use than late model higher tensile sheetmetal.
How are the bases of your A-pillars?
go for it - im watching keenly to see how you go. planning to do some enthusiastic amateur welding on mine too.
Looks like it will be an interesting project at the very least. From the pic on the trailer, it doesn't look too bad.
Colour wise, I doubt very much its prugna (not 'pink' enough). Could be Rosso, as it can appear darker in some pics and the shade varies greatly online.
If it has a touch of metallic in it, then i back 'Ruby Metallic' - AR534. It changed mid April 76' from AR518 but as yours is a 77' i'd go with AR534.
You'd need to confirm that via a paint test or its 'birth notice' from Alfa Romeo Historico.
Cheers,
Paul.
P.S. Having said the above about prugna, found it in one my colour charts...
Its not the best reproduction of the colurs but you can see their similarity. (Robinia - bottom right is Ruby)
I revise, could be Ruby or Prugna!!
Cheers.
I suggest you get yourself a Dremel, or a cheaper version Rotary Tool (with small cutting wheels and a few carbide burrs), and a cheap Oscillating Tool with fine tooth metal blades to compliment your angle grinder and hand snips.
Here's some inspiration and a few hints.
http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=8649.0
https://www.alfabb.com/threads/alfetta-sill-cut.14822/
Some will be horrified with what I'm about to write.... but.... for smaller rust holes you don't necessarily need to drop in a flush fitting repair piece or weld it all the way around. You can cut a repair piece a little larger than the hole and do a lap repair from behind, or from the front and 'knock-it-down' to take the filler.. You can also just hold it in place with a few welds rather than all the way round. You'll need to use filler regardless, and a little extra to fill a small lap repair isn't the end of the world. Just ensure you treat the inside/back of the repair with rust preventative once the repair is completed.
Watching with interest :D
Email Marco Fazio, he looks after alfa production records at the museum, give him your VIN, he should be able to help.
marco.fazio@stellantis.com
Love those seats by the way. I so wish mine were still in the original velour.
pretty sure its stamped in the engine bay somewhere, maybe on firewall near choke cable?
Just checked mine, and the VIN is stamped on the drivers side firewall underneath the clutch fluid reservoir and master cylinder.
Instructions on contacting Alfa for history is the first sticky under the General Discussion forum.
Quote from: Alfatango on January 26, 2022, 01:56:20 PM
So apparently original valve guides were shot so previous owner took of the heads. Have original plus spares so will need to decide which ones going back on.
DO NOT ROTATE the crank or you risk lifting a sleeve (unless the PO installed sleeve hold downs)
Quote from: Alfatango on January 26, 2022, 01:46:01 PM
How do I go about that? These are the only plaques I can find.
There
might be a paint code sticker on the inside of the hatch, right hand side.
for reference, this is where my VIN is located, as described earlier.
Quote from: Alfatango on January 29, 2022, 06:05:29 PM
I bought the Haynes manual as well as I don't even know where the springs are :o
Ha!
(I did some welding yesterday too.. feels great when it just works)
Quote from: Alfatango on January 29, 2022, 05:58:56 PM
No idea where the vin is as couldn't find it under the clutch fluid holder. Emailed Marco so we will see what he can do.
Look a little further to the left. There should be a large grommet for the wiring harness to the left of the cast alloy clutch pedal box, and right underneath the grommet should be the VIN.
Quote from: Alfatango on January 29, 2022, 06:05:29 PM
I bought the Haynes manual as well as I don't even know where the springs are :o
It has torsion bars in the front, not traditional coil springs. They're the long round bars that run backwards from the lower control arms.
Lights are specific to their position. Outers are low beam, inners are high beam (H1 globes?). The glass is cut to throw the beam the correct way for RHD, and the little pins mean you can't swap them over even temporarily.
BTW, looks like you have a GT 'eggcrate' grille. GTV has more pronounced lateral slats.
You could try to get the tailgate strut refilled. I did a few over the years with varying levels of success and failure. Check cost of new Vs regassing.
'tis indeed the jack. Useless (dangerous), however don't chuck it away as (in the future) some stocknazi will question why it's missing and complain that it's more valuable than the car.
re the lights, I remember that for the SudSprint that there were some early 3series BMW units that were the same size/fitment. No idea about the Alfetta/GTV but worth a Google.
I like the colour 👍
Yes, that's a GTV grille.
And yes, that's the jack. Undo the wingnut to remove it, and fold the arm out. Stick the arm into the slots just behind the front wheels or in front of the rear wheels, and wind the handle.
Start with the jack leaning backwards a bit, because the top will pull inwards as the car goes up.
And watch out for failed bearings in the jack, and rusted-out jacking points. And then get yourself a small, safe, modern jack to use instead ???
Might I suggest you buy a workshop manual before doing anything else? It'll save you some grief. e.g. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234271527404 Brand new from Haynes for $55
Also, these cars are getting rare now so treat each one of those spare parts like it was made outa bitcoins.