Hi guys
Hope you expert guys can help with my 2009 2.2 jts
Haven't driven the car in a while and when I went to start it , it was struggling to start , it fired up but stalled on 3 attempt's and battery went flat.
My partner got our jump starter out and it kicked over but would not start .it tried to start but it kept stalling,
At first he thought it might be flooded so we left it for a day and tried again but again wouldn't start.
Same issue it seemed to not getting fuel as it is trying to start then stalls.
Any idea where to look at fuses or relays?
Baz you must be getting sick of me😄
Kind regards
Ok, if your battery went flat after just 3 attempts it needs replacing, it's stuffed.
Fit a new quality battery and then see how you go. Till you do this it's a waste of time trying to give any comment as to what the issue is.
One must always remember, with modern vehicles you are no longer driving a car, you're driving a Local Area Network with 9 computers, that just happens to have a set of wheels under it to get it around.
Quote from: OzzyAlfa159ti on March 29, 2021, 04:26:16 PM
Baz you must be getting sick of me😄
I'm not the only source of knowledge on here, many other cleaver heads hang out in these parts too.
Hi
I will buy new battery and see then
What's strange baz is that it cranked fine with a jump starter so I was puzzled why I new battery would be any different.
Regards maria
The problem is that cranking and operating voltage are two separate things.
And as Alfatango said, it may make no difference, but it's a waste of time going further without eliminating it from the equation.
As mentioned, if it died after 3 attempts, the battery needs replacing anyway.
There is one other thing you can do without spending any money, check the fuel cut-off switch under the passenger seat.
It's a large black rubber button, slide the seat all the way back, you'll see it. Give it a press and see if it makes any difference.
Hi baz
Not having a great time
Had battery checked and said all it need was charging so I charged it .
Kicked over but Still wouldn't start.
So I plugged in obd2link and full paid version of AlfaOBD
Found faults
On body computer
U1602
B1041
B1040
On bosch injection
P0575
P1560
P0560
Tried pushing the button under passenger seat
Tried removing and reseating the earth cable
Tried leaving battery disconnecting for a day
Tried clearing codes
Tried proxy alignment
I can hear the full pump when we insert the key
And sometimes it tries to fire up
Any help would be much appreciated as I lost my income and trying to fix this without going to the mechanic
Kind regards
Maria
It helps if you give the description of the errors with each fault code.
Hi baz
Ok so problem is I cleared the codes
I'm bad.
I will try and plug it in again tomorrow and see if the faults are still there.
If not have I stuffed up royally?
I did take some screenshots but not sure which is for what.
1 I definitely is right is
Body computer
U1600 description is minikrypt
2 is B1025 description optional service relay
Short circuit to ground
Fault intermittent
Far out hope I haven't ruined the chance to fix this
Hi
Here are the description of the codes
Your Engine ECU is not getting voltage. Check all applicable fuses in engine bay and under the dash by drivers right knee.
Also look at the battery voltage - 10.7v
If you cant find any blown fuses try disconnecting the MAF and starting, as the MAF is indicating that the air temperature is over 100'c
Battery voltage 10.7v
Perhaps circle back with unclebazz's original thoughts
(I once had a brand new battery that charged and presented good voltage, until placed under load.. when it shat itself)
Hi
Thank you for your help
All fuses in engine bay are good
The inside fuses near the steering wheel , there isn't anything regarding ecu.
Ok so went out and bought a brand new battery.wow the price!
Still no luck
So then I Unplugged the maf sensor and it now wants to start but fails
With the maf unplugged its the first time since having this issue that it's getting closer to starting
But still no start
Ok so I plugged the OBD in again and I faults from Bosch injection are all gone.
The 3 that I posted with pictures
On the body computer I now only have 1 fault
U1600
PLEASE SEE ATTACHED
Btw this OBD check was done without the maf plugged in
Here is a better description
U1600 is a failure in the Immobilizer circuit, usually because the key reader is not reading the immob chip in the key correctly.
Do you have a second key, if so try using it.
Hi baz
Ok so after replacing the battery and disconnecting the MAF sensor as explained the car tried to start.
What I did next was I noticed 1 headlight bulb was not working and I replaced it and the car started.
It ran really badly but I suspect that it was flooded with petrol due to trying so many times to start it
After that I plugged the MAF sensor back in and all is good
I checked the for any codes and I had 2 . 1 was air temp and the other was MAF short to ground.
Which I believe was due to unplugging the MAF sensor.
I cleared the codes and took the car for a drive and retested for faults and none showed.
Not sure what actually fixed it but when I installed the new headlight bulb it started
Thatnk you for your help VERY MUCH APPRECIATED
kind regards
Maria
Hi
Unfortunately has happened again
Won't start.
What the hell could it be
have you unplugged the ECU and plugged it in again to check that the connection is seated correctly? this is based on your earlier fault about the ECU not getting power
Have you checked again for any returning error codes?
Are you still getting the U1600 error?
Have you tried using the other key? (If you have one)
Did this happen after you "looked" at the fuses?
If so, start there.
Quote from: pasey25 on April 06, 2021, 12:10:22 PM
have you unplugged the ECU and plugged it in again to check that the connection is seated correctly? this is based on your earlier fault about the ECU not getting power
WARNING!!!
DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING ECU PLUGS !!!
of course. thanks Barry for the warning. Can't assume people will know that.
Hi guys and thank you for your replies
Ok so I haven't unplugged the ECU yet
Is the ecu the one next to the battery?
And yes I will unplug the battery first
Baz I tried the other remote and still not starting.
I even replaced the batteries in the remotes and still no luck.
Craig_m67 , the issue was there before I even looked at the fuses.
The non starting issue was the reason why I was looking at the fuses.
Baz I haven't plugged the OBD scanner in yet to see if there is anymore fault codes.
Will check tomorrow and update here .
Thank you all for trying to help me
Kind regards
Maria
Hi everyone
So I got new fault codes
Interesting thread, perhaps of value
https://www.alfaowner.com/threads/need-a-help-to-start-my-159-with-the-problem-vehicle-protection-system-not-available.418442/
Best of luck
Hi Craig_m67
Thank you for your help
will try tomorrow
These are 2 more codes
Feels like I have tried everything
The TEG (Key Reader) does not seem to be recognizing your key.
There could be an issue with the TEG, as it is unlikely both key Transponder Chips would fail together.
You will need to take it to a Alfa Specialist who know how to test/replace the TEG unit.
Hi everyone
Ok so my partner got feed up and replaced spark plugs and fired up straight away.
Cleared all codes and haven't returned at the moment.
Car drives perfect
Once again thank you all for taking your time to try and help us out.
Kind regards
Maria
Hi Alfatango
Thank you for your reply
Crossed fingers it is now sorted
Funny thing is none of the codes pointed to spark plugs.
The car started first go after days if chasing fault codes.
After speaking to a alfa mechanic he said that not to use 98 petrol but to use 95 because it fouls the plugs and tarnishes the ends.
Infact they where really bad and had worn out the middle of the plugs.
Also the gap due to wear was huge.
He told us that the codes drive none alfa mechanics crazy and because when the car cranks but doesn't fire up it weakens the battery and triggers all sorts of codes not related to the issue and they keep replacing parts that are not the issue to why it won't start.
Especially 2.2
Hope this is the case and helps others
Kind regards
Maria
UPDATE
so after a few weeks of using 95 fuel and seeing if it truly was the 98 fuel causing the issue, and happy to say that it was 98 causing all the problems.
Running perfect on 95
Another thing you should check is the air intake bellows for cracks/holes. My car would never start first stab of the button on 98 and so I changed to 95 where, as you say, it would then always start. It was after this that I discovered the hole in the bellows and so after fitting a new one, I tried 98 again and it now always starts first stab.
Hi thanks for that . Will check when my partner services the car
Makes sense as air is still getting drawn in and probably effecting the air flow meter
Exactly Alfatango; MAF's are extremely sensitive things although I'm happy to be corrected if the MAF is unaffected. Beyond that, if you do have a hole, your engine is drawing significant air in AFTER the air filter which is clearly no good thing...