Hi everyone
After picking up the new project GT, it's got a lot of love in need in the paint and body. Mostly straight, some average repair work all over due to a poor paint job. Im not fussed though, I dont want it to be dressy and polished, but I do want to stop the rust from getting worse and one day smooth enough to wrap it.
Inside the driver's door they look like they've had bitumen stuff sprayed into them before the blue paint was applied, and it's cracked all over, showing some signs of rust-orange in the cracks of some areas. It might be original but i don't remember this much in my last GTV. I
'd like to start by stripping the doors bare and respraying them inside out. Patching if I find anything underneath (but they seem real solid).
Is there a best way of tackling this? Bit worried that a heavy sandblast would just warp the outer skin. Has anyone done the inside of doors before?
I'll get some pictures when I get some time to redo the plastic linings behind the trims. Might pick at a bit and see if it's easy to scrape or chip off.
Maybe trying "Freeze Spray" and giving it a tap/pick to get it to shatter?
https://crcindustries.com.au/products/crc-freeze-spray-300g-2039.html (https://crcindustries.com.au/products/crc-freeze-spray-300g-2039.html)
Door off
On its side
Dry ice in thin plastic bag
Freeze a spot and chip with a paint scraper
Job done
I second Craig's method. Did the whole floor of my Super in 15 minutes back to factory primer 10 years ago. Be aware the bituminous deadener may have asbestos fibres.
The key to all of the above is the need to freeze the sound deadener then remove by scraping off. You can find a previous post on the subject at the following link together with videos on how to.
http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=19151.0
Thanks everyone. Seems there's one good way to go about it.
Just wonder if work will let me borrow some dry ice... they seem to have ~50kg of pellets get left out to evap after particular processes.