Wondering if any of the Sydney indies have the factory kit for compressing and reassembling struts.
About to swap over my front shocks and remembering the "fun" last time with maintaining ideal alignment of the top hat and strut body.
This is what I use.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31K35TMHZ6L.jpg)
And they are very well priced for what you get.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1T-Coil-Spring-Compressor-2200lbs-Auto-Strut-7-Holes-Adjustable-Hydraulic-System/273787629930?epid=14031206853&hash=item3fbf03b16a:g:o-sAAOSwhSZcoac5&frcectupt=true (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1T-Coil-Spring-Compressor-2200lbs-Auto-Strut-7-Holes-Adjustable-Hydraulic-System/273787629930?epid=14031206853&hash=item3fbf03b16a:g:o-sAAOSwhSZcoac5&frcectupt=true)
There's a comparable tool at the back of the shop I sometimes haunt, the main difference is it pushes the top down at the spring "saddle", not the bottom up. The ability to lock in perfect alignment with the dealer tool, was why it appealed.
Interestingly, the genuine tool with accessories is sub $1K per the Euro parts houses. I'd have expected much more.
The one shown does push up from the bottom, but pulls down on the spring at the top, allowing the top hat to be aligned easily.
Comments invited.
To me the rubber hat looks barely worn, and fine to re-use. I do have new genuine ones if required. Am I mad to re-use, or mad to replace?
Also, if resting so the upper bolt pair are parallel with the bench (eg this picture), is the "fin" or indexing tag at the far end supposed to be at a true 90°?
(https://i.postimg.cc/d7zBRpSn/2-D7362-BB-E12-F-4-F99-84-F1-566-D698-A488-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d7zBRpSn) (https://i.postimg.cc/w14FM7XC/2-EEE08-B7-0653-49-EA-95-DD-3-C0-AF34-E5783.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w14FM7XC)
I used the ePer method for getting the shock out, Andrew of Alfamotive had sort-of explained it to me but it hadn't fully clicked last time and I wasted hours dropping the stub axle, lower wishbone and driveshaft. Much simpler this way!
If you have new* ones sitting there, you're mad not to replace them while you have it all apart.
As you know, rubber perishes with age (as well as use). No point having them sit on the shelf doing squat but getting old.. there's a life lesson here, use it or lose it!
*Unless the new set you have is not OEM, or just wrong somehow, then I'd leave the originals well alone if they look and work okay.
It's not just the Rubber Top Hat that wears but also the metal bearing in the middle that the shoulder on the shock shaft bears upon.
Craig - have just had a look at the new, genuine, strut top rubbers. Honestly not that impressive! I can see the metal inside its castellated riser playing peekaboo.
Bazz - any comment on my proposed alignment of the top and bottom?
Ok, in the first photo you see that hole in the top mounting plate. That is supposed to line up with the metal Indexing tag at the bottom, that is what it's there for.
If you look at the mount holes in the shock tower you will see they are not parallel to the center line of the car, so thus the the shock mounting horns/bolts at the top should not be at right angles to the indexing tag.
Any of that make sense?
Yes, all understood thank you. :)
It's just that on this assembly - never dismantled before, never separated from the alloy bracket before - the hole is maybe 5° offset from perfect alignment. I wasn't sure if I should be replicating that offset!
That compressor you linked, Bazz, is now $10 cheaper... Close to play money territory.
I did the offside strut with my mate's gear. Chipped the heck out of everything and sent me into OCD damage control mode. Touch up epoxy paint (red for the strut, black for the coil) and hot air gun to resolve. So if the Fleabay special is not too scratchy it's a must-have.
The top plate alignment hole and bottom fin deal, this is a winner. I got it pretty darned close, mounted the strut, then fitted the fork with pivot bolt, guided the strut bottom starting into the fork top and then carefully jacked up the lower wishbone - went home like they'd just met at the club. Perhaps I should note I'd carefully de-burred the bore of the strut fork, it had very slight galling from almost twenty years of dissimilar metals in contact. A scant wipe of synthetic grease might have made it even easier.