Hi all,
I am in the process of replacing the water pump on the 75 TS and have hit a frustrating problem >:(
When you try to withdraw the pump from the studs on the front of the block you can't because the timing needle (arrowed)
hits the inside of the crank pulley :o
I can feel 2 or 3 holes in the back of the crank pulley, do I hand rotate the crank to align a hole with the timing needle?
If so, looking at the engine from the front do I go clockwise or anti clockwise?
If this is not the correct procedure what the hell is!
Help much appreciated!!
Quote from: alanm on April 22, 2017, 03:32:08 PM
Hi all,
I am in the process of replacing the water pump on the 75 TS and have hit a frustrating problem >:(
When you try to withdraw the pump from the studs on the front of the block you can't because the timing needle (arrowed)
hits the inside of the crank pulley :o
I can feel 2 or 3 holes in the back of the crank pulley, do I hand rotate the crank to align a hole with the timing needle?
If so, looking at the engine from the front do I go clockwise or anti clockwise?
If this is not the correct procedure what the hell is!
Help much appreciated!!
Alan, I was doing a water pump this morning too but on a Nord motor. The crank pulley has to come off, at least in my case, I think. You turn motor clockwise looking front on.
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Think the holes on the back of the pulley could be balance drill holes. Could be wrong.
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If you don't have means to remove the pulley (a 36 mm socket and a long breaker bar): cut the pointer off shorter to get the pump out.
The water pumps that you buy now that are made for all post cable tacho drive engines have a longer pointer than the original T-S water pumps. The T-S pumps had a shorter pointer to clear the trigger wheel. Cut it off so you can just fit the pump in. The pointer is only used for cam timing. Ignition timing is ECU controlled and cant otherwise be altered.
Of course, it is advisable to replace the front pulley seal while you are there.....
Thank for your reply Neil, I Googled this before I started I didn't find much so I assumed it was going to be relatively easy.
What is it they say about assuming... ::)
If someone confirms that the TS is the same of the Nord I will probably truck it to MPS – I am not as handy and brave with the tools as you are.
I would be great if you could post how you go with your job.
Cheers,
Alan
Luke, thanks for your reply, I remember now someone saying the same thing on another forum. Removing the crank pulley can sometimes be a huge PITA by all accounts so I will shorten the pointer as you suggest.
Neil, do you need the pointer because the Nord does not run on an ECU?
Al.
Nord vs TS water pumps are different slightly. TS one doesn't have the hole to accommodate the tacho drive gear thingy.
Sorry Alan I don't need the pointer WP, if that's what you mean. I just picked up a couple of Nord WPs to use.
Up to the part of taking off my crank pulley, either radiator out and rattle gun off the 36mm nut, or use long breaker bar on the socket. Rest is as normal, ie 10mm and the 2 x 11 mm nuts, clean surface, silastic etc.
No Neil, I wasn't thinking of a part swap, I was just wondering if you could short cut your pump change by shortening the pointer (I am assuming you can't).
Let us know how you get on with the crank pulley removal, I am curious to know how stop the crank turning when you attempt to undo the nut.
We talking about the Group S car - looking forward to seeing it on the track again.
Cheers,
Al
Put into gear. Someone's foot on brake. You with a big pole on breaker bar on socket and lever. Or radiator out and rattle gun.
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Fitting new water pump went well, I ended up leaving about 5mm of the timing pointer on the new pump.
The old gasket came away almost in 1 piece, but I cleaned up the surface with some very fine emery paper to make sure the seal was as good as it could be.
Road tested, no leaks from any of the removed and replaced hoses. All good ;D.
Thanks guys for the advice. How did you go Neil?
Cheers, Al.