Hi guys, I'm heading up to NSW to pick up a couple of rolling shells and parts including engines etc. how do I tell what model year the body is and what size engine? There are a few engines so want to make sure it's a match. Will the body have a code/number I can then match to an inventory list or something? Will the engine have any marks/symbols to indicate it's a 1750?
Hi guys heading up to pick up the two alfas this weekend. Can I get some advice on how to identifying motor sizes (is there a mark or symbol?) and how do I tell which is the 1968 and which is the 1970 bodies? I want to make sure I match the right parts to the yellow body to ensure it's right. Cheers.
Seeing that the Alfa service for chassis numbers is off the air right now you'll have to revert to the old fashioned methods. Which starts with, there is no concept of model years in Australian delivered cars. There is however the concept of a series, say in your case a series 1 vs a series 2 1750.
Basicly a series 1 will have the indicators mounted on the bumpers and a series 2 will have them mounted in cutouts on the front panel. That's the start.
There's also no concept of "matching numbers" in a 105 Alfa. Yes, there is a correct and an incorrect engine number range which others will be able to comment on. But that's it. Bless you have some original documentation saying otherwise the best you'll be back to do is get the right series.
Looking closely at the pictures of the shells I would say that the yellow ochre is a series 1 and the red is a series 2
Here's a photo of the yellow front end, does this offer any more clues?
What were the year separating series 1 & 2? Was series one up to and including 1969?
The red car looks like a S1 1750 GTV due to the two slots in the front nosecone under the radiator intake. I think the S2's came out in late 1969. Good luck with the restoration!
Hi
1750 RHD Chassis identification S2 from March 1970
IMO ....
Red one is an early S2 1750. Mounts for twin boosters in the engine bay and cut outs in the front panel under the headlights for body mounted indicators. Bumper poking out of the windscreen looks like and S2. I think the early S2's had 2 slots on the front panel and later on in their run had 4 a la' 2000 GTV.
Yellow Ochre looks like a S1, no cut outs under front lights for indicators, so would be bumper mounted S1.
If both engines are around check these markings on the heads to see if it helps. Once again anything could have been done to the engines etc,. over the years, so its indicative only.
The other way to check the engines is to measure from the top of the water pump to the top of the block, i think each is slightly different.
Cheers,
Paul.
You could always search for Fusi's Production Numbers. I understand that this is as close as it gets to factory information.
Oops - missed the nosecone holes for the indicators! But the two holes below the radiator intake are odd for an S2 1750? Looks like an S2 that has had some front end work.
What would be the most desirable to restore. I prefer the yellow car, series 1 would be pretty special however the plan was to de bumper and lower slightly to achieve a look similar to this example. Where would I mount the indicators if I have no bumper on a S1? In the bumper mount hole left over?
The legend returned today. 18 hour 2000km drive but made it back in one piece!!! It appears this is a MK1 1968 1750 GTV. So happy, I didn't grab the second body as it was trashed and couldn't fit it on the trailer. However I have nearly two of everything else. I'm also actually pretty happy with the Globe wheels. I think they will clean up well?
As well as the Weber carbies, there is also a pair of Solex. I don't know anything about these, would these have been the originals? I was going to put the webers on as I loved them last time but should I restore the Solex? Do they have value?
The webbers are standard - doubt there is much value in the Solex carbs.
You will have a lot of fun restoring the car.
Cheers
Paul
What's with the cuts through the a pillar and the front guard?
The entire front panel kit is cut off. They guy claims he bought it like that. There's some weird cut put sections too. I have work to do.