I should probably start another build thread for this car ('73 1600 GT Junior). I bought it so I could have something to drive while I restored the Duetto (first mistake). Whilst the driveline/engine etc are quite amazing there was some horrible rust in the rear floors (fronts spotless, go figure)
In anycase, please humour me with this diversion... who can tell me what's going on here?!
It's the transmission tunnel, just behind the handbrake on the RH rear floor. There used to be an L shaped bracket spot welded to the transmission tunnel and the floor (above the seat belt mount etc). The floor has come out for complete replacement as it was very toasty.
My question is the transmission tunnel. On the Duetto the transmission tunnel aft of the gearbox is a single upside down U shaped piece that everything else (floors, flanges, etc) weld too.. In this car however it looks like there are two pieces sheathed together here, which doesn't make any sense to me.
Anybody seen this before and or better still have pics which show what it should look like. I don't quite understand what I'm about to unpick.. Never wise.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg3_zps7fb46441.jpg)
bit hard to tell from the photo's but i think you might be getting confused as there is a right angle strengthening plate in that area to help out the floor where the seat belt mount is. hopefully this photo will help, its of the passenger side as I've already removed it from the drivers side of my shell but its exactly the same in each side
hope that helps
Chees Colin,
No, it's not that. I removed that piece in full to get a look at what was going on underneath. The rear floor had a massive patch running from one side to the other that had just been plated over the old floor. I think I'm looking at either bits of the patch or what's left of the transmission tunnel.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps07abf24b.jpg)
Can anybody confirm my belief that the tunnel is one piece in this area?
And the floor as I found it :-\
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps16a87c24.jpg)
Completely (mostly) removed now up to the cross member
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zpsb9422703.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg3_zps1597d6c9.jpg)
Very odd, The tunnel should just be one piece, looks like what has happened is someone has jammed a repair patch up between a split in the original tunnel panel?
Just keep cuttin - cut your way in, weld your way out :P
Sun was out so a little bit more digging around today.
I believe this car (GT Junior) is two cars and has been cut and shut. Whilst this doesn't really phase me given how much repair work these cars can get, it wasn't something I was expecting to correct. I should have checked the car in person instead of relying on the honesty of the PO when asked specifically about any rust or obvious issues (that were carefully photographed around). Buyer beware, caveat emptor, my fault.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpsea459878.jpg)
I'm told this is a low arch rear end and as such, wrong?
Life's just a bit too difficult at the moment.
I'm not sure if I want to continue.
If it is a low arch maybe I can put on a step front nose without upsetting too many people*L*
Yes, it's wrong for that model to have low arches. Personally if you're not caring about originality I'd convert it to a stepnose/GTA rep.
The easiest way to check if it's just the guards OR a whole rear end welded on, get into the boot and run your eye/hands up around the C pillar badge area from the inside - if you can see/feel welds in that area then it's merely had the arches put on. if you feel nothing then it's a cut and shut job.
Reason is that it's near impossible to get to that area to grind the welds down. i have no idea how they did it at the factory but with factory cars you can't really feel the welds in this area.
I think it's been cut and shut through the sills, see the pic below for the weld line just in front of the the seatbelt mount. It would also explain the sheathing and welding on the transmission tunnel.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps9d4aabba.jpg)
I had planned to repair the rear floors as per factory and later the outer and middle sills. I'm not too concerned about it structurally, however I am a bit deflated.
What's the shopping list for a step front end and how is it different structurally?
I imagine it's the jewellery that costs the most.
If anybody would like this body sans driveline CHEAP let me know.
Or perhaps I should just continue and fix it, then paint it two colours *L*
Okay, so the transmission tunnel is definitely two sheathed together. The tunnel from the rear is over the front up to the very end of the handbrake. The welding is quite neat at both ends. Looks like the rear was silver too, or this was done very early in its life as the sound deadening material I've chipped off the rear was all original silver. I suspect they have done it this way so as not to disturb the seat belt mount strengthening piece which was on the tunnel.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg4_zps4823de3d.jpg)
I should probably start a thread for this car all on its own.. Anybody interested?
Quote from: Craig_m67 on August 25, 2014, 01:43:49 PM
I should probably start a thread for this car all on its own.. Anybody interested?
Yes. I'm interested in where you go with the junior.
Quote from: Brad M on August 25, 2014, 02:00:44 PM
Quote from: Craig_m67 on August 25, 2014, 01:43:49 PM
I should probably start a thread for this car all on its own.. Anybody interested?
Yes. I'm interested in where you go with the junior.
Cool, I don't suppose you can excise everything after post #61 here and start a new tread entitled '73 1600 GTJunior ? Or should I start the thread and then you move the posts?
Quote from: Craig_m67 on August 25, 2014, 02:11:03 PM
Cool, I don't suppose you can excise everything after post #61 here and start a new tread entitled '73 1600 GTJunior ? Or should I start the thread and then you move the posts?
I think that does the job...
Thank you
I just off to buy some chocolate and beer for a while.
Craig,
Thats bloody devastating to find. I wish I could help out in some way.
At least the job doesnt look too dodgy. Was/is it a common thing to join two 105's together?
The guy on petrolicious bought one with a similar job done to yours (I think his was a not as well executed though).
Just found the link:
http://www.petrolicious.com/ten-dirty-secrets-of-ludovica
All the best,
Andrew
I looked at buying one from a forum member a while back after he copped a rear shunt. Engine T/Spark was sold and I was going to buy the rolling shell but the engine buyer fell through so he decided to get it back on the road.
Pretty sure it was series two front and series one rear cut, not sure where it was joined though.
For context, here's the outside of the car.
It was an impulse buy during the Qld school holidays. I always wanted a coupe (a Scaliano) but it was cheap and allegedly sound. With the excuse of visiting cousins and a big sister, I flew my son and I down to Sydney and surprised him with it at the airport.. We had a great road-trip holiday, catching up with cousins, daughters and driving home up the coast slowly exploring all the bays etc.. The car ran faultlessly back to Brisbane without any issues whatsoever. I was really quite surprised (annoyed *L*) as I didn't have to leverage plan B (breakdown and recovery).
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpse704583f.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps2aa810f7.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps27a5e453.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps5921649d.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg3_zps292b4d51.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpscf7ccc57.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg3_zpse2e72304.jpg)
The GTA reps are off my Duetto.
The doors are a slightly different colour to the body as they were repainted after some rust repairs (*L*) a few years back. I have no idea what the paint code is, it's a metallic red, growing on me but a 10ft paint job with some runs etc., not sure if it's clear over base or not (suspect so). I haven't tried to colour sand it. The door hinges were loose hence the poor fit, I need to find two hinge screws if anybody has spares...
If anybody knows the car, please feel free to get in out touch, privately if you want.
It would be nice to know a bit about her history.
The engine/gearbox etc are exceptional and it'd be interesting to know who/when etc they were rebuilt, it's the quietest 1600 and gearbox I've ever driven, no crunch! It has yellow konis all round and a completely new exhaust. Driveshaft has been off recently too, there are clean marks showing alignment. I doubt this car has done very many k's since it was recommisioned. It managed less than 300ks since it's NSW roadworthy in 2012. I've since put on about 1500.
The only mechanical thing to go wrong so far was the starter motor. So I had it completely rebuilt.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps6c151fd9.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps31db1c68.jpg)
At the same time I took the opportunity to clean (spray degreaser on) the carbs and repaint the airbox. The engine and g'box on this car is completely clean, no oil or water leaks anywhere. It's been rebuilt recently. Did I mention no second gear crunch!
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps3f3e9d3c.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg4_zpsd18dd8a7.jpg)
I need to paint that coil, let's everything down.
Last week, planning ahead for queensland roadworthy, I had the front screen replaced. The original had some deep scratches from the wipers and wouldn't have passed inspection. Was quite surprised to find paint and no rust or bog or crap inside the frame. The fitter was in and out in an hour and paid particular attention to ensuring the trim was saved and refitted neatly without damage, thank you O'Briens glass
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpsf49bec4b.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps82cb589f.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg3_zps2e453ab6.jpg)
Mr Fazio tells me (the front half should be) AR727 Light Metallic Silver. The metallic red is growing on me though. There are a few rust bubbles limited to the front sills and rear boot frame forming but nothing around the windows (yet). No perforation anywhere 'outside' as yet.
Would be nice to just get her registered so I can drive her
I should really persevere, it's a nice car.
Craig, have a look in the channel for the boot lid about 6-8" left of centre below the rear window - there will be a second chassis stamping - hopefully it matches the firewall!
If you want someone to poke around it and see what you've got, let me know...
I assume you won't have it back together for Cars and Coffee this weekend?
forgot about the boot channel stamping! If it says 10504 or 10537 then it is definitely the rear off a stepfront.
C&C this weekend? damn, another one I will miss in the Super. It runs but not ready for a cross city jaunt yet!
Today's update is brought to you by the letter D
Dremeling delicious dubious droppings with demonstrably draconian deliberation.
The dodgy floor patch begat
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps07abf24b.jpg)
Some confused tunnel vision which had
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg4_zpsd1a573ad.jpg)
hidden treasures with bad weldy droppings on rusty crusty steel
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg3_zpscb2502f3.jpg)
Which just peeled off, now exorcised and shiny
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps599eee67.jpg)
That's the first time that (new)rubber handbrake boot has been able to fit.
I'm open to origami welding suggestions for tomorrow :)
Indeed any comments or suggestions from any of you who have patched up these beauties before on a budget or professionally would be appreciated. If it's not obvious, I'm firmly making this up :) Good practise before I attack the Duetto I guess.
Quote from: LaStregaNera on August 26, 2014, 08:08:03 AM
I assume you won't have it back together for Cars and Coffee this weekend?
Is this a challenge?? :)
Turns out it's next weekend - you've got an extra weekend to get it together :P
Quote from: Craig_m67 on August 26, 2014, 02:32:16 PM
Dremeling
Indeed any comments or suggestions from any of you who have patched up these beauties before on a budget or professionally would be appreciated. If it's not obvious, I'm firmly making this up :) Good practise before I attack the Duetto I guess.
Air tools :)
Die grinder with a nice carbide burr, and a 3" cutoff grinder are super handy.
As is a nice big brass/copper/aluminium block to use as a heatsink if you find a thin bit and start blowing through alot.
Buy lots of cheap vice grips!
That last photo - have they lap jointed two tunnels together??
Quote from: LaStregaNera on August 26, 2014, 04:08:26 PM
Quote from: Craig_m67 on August 26, 2014, 02:32:16 PM
Dremeling
Indeed any comments or suggestions from any of you who have patched up these beauties before on a budget or professionally would be appreciated. If it's not obvious, I'm firmly making this up :) Good practise before I attack the Duetto I guess.
Air tools :)
Die grinder with a nice carbide burr, and a 3" cutoff grinder are super handy.
As is a nice big brass/copper/aluminium block to use as a heatsink if you find a thin bit and start blowing through alot.
Buy lots of cheap vice grips!
That last photo - have they lap jointed two tunnels together??
Cheers, got most of that. Buying tools is not really an issue, talent and experience is limited though :)
I used the Dremel as I wanted to unpick slowly. The floor on the other side will be chopped out in seconds now that I know what I'm dealing with (yes, the other side is just as bad).
Yes, they have lap jointed the two tunnels over each other. The tunnel from the rear goes over the tunnel from the front. It's lap welded right behind where the handbrake mechanism bolts to the original front tunnel, you can see the weld running up and over. It must have been lap welded underneath about 10cm short of the kick panel, in line with the handbrake cable adjuster, you can see the weld coming through the tunnel at the back.
After a cup of tea and a good lay down, I think I will:
1. Butt weld a patch into the square hole i've made to cut out rust and birdshit welds
2. Peen down the horizontal cut i've made in the 'top' tunnel onto the lower and lap weld it together
3. Hammer and dolly a sensible shape to it all
4. Replace the floor (got two new rear ones) as per factory, may have to patch the kick panel corner
5. Replace the L shaped bracket with a longer thicker stronger version that can tie all that together
Anybody see anything wrong with this idea ?
.... or perhaps somebody has a spare coupe tunnel laying around brisbane (or surrounds) I can cleanup an just rosette (spot) weld in as per the factory? - Actually, this would be my preferred option. Then only the sills will be 'joined' incorrectly for a bit. If you've got one (donor car) let me know and I'll bring my grinder.
My preferred option would be to track down a tunnel from somewhere, I can''t imagine it would be to hard to get hold of one, it's probably the last part left in wreck! and when do you ever need to replace one?
Got a lead on a tunnel 8)
Out of interest, what are people's reactions/thoughts to finding out about by car like this.
Will it ever have any value again or is it forever doomed to be a dodgy cut and shut?
QuoteWill it ever have any value again
Roll Cage....Tarmac rally car!
Cut your losses, buy a set of 13x8"s and some GTAm guards :P
I'd be happy to cut my losses.
If anybody wants this - CHEAP - I'd be more than happy to get it off my drive.
Make me an offer (although I'm keeping the GTA reps.)
I'll be moving house soon and I don't need two projects (any projects really).
Picked up that bootlid on gumtree this morning, quite nice, very, very little rust in the lower frame I can see, thanks Rod.
If anybody has a shed in SEQld I can rent some storage in for 12mths min. let me know.
I don't need access during this period, just a dry spot.
Quote from: Craig_m67 on August 28, 2014, 02:08:05 PM
I'd be happy to cut my losses.
If anybody wants this - CHEAP - I'd be more than happy to get it off my drive.
Make me an offer (although I'm keeping the GTA reps.)
I'll be moving house soon and I don't need two projects (any projects really).
Picked up that bootlid on gumtree this morning, quite nice, very, very little rust in the lower frame I can see, thanks Rod.
If anybody has a shed in SEQld I can rent some storage in for 12mths min. let me know.
I don't need access during this period, just a dry spot.
I *know* my wife would kill me if I put my hand up for it!
If you want a hand welding a floor/tunnel back in it, let me know - you'll want out of it less once it's driveable and fun again.
Alrighty Heidi,
Good old (1750) transmission tunnel sourced and half cut out for collection tomorrow. Will clean it up during the week and see how badly it's rusted out in the rear corners. Then decide if it's worth cutting it in correctly and disturbing the front floors, I'm not convinced personally.
Okie dokey
Got the donor 1750 transmission tunnel out and back home on Tuesday evening. Thanks John!! (Alfafarm), appreciate the chat too.
I've chopped off the extra bits left on when I cut it out of the donor to allow me to the drill out all the spot welds for the bits attached to the tunnel ie. front gearbox housing, side floors, chassis cross brace and the top parcel shelf attached to the rear kick panel.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps026e18ca.jpg)
Then I cleaned it up a bit. Will wire brush tomorrow and flatten down the drilled out spot welds and straighten some other bits to ensure the new floors fit flush. Still need to remove the final bits of the chassis cross members, they're seam welded on. Hopefully the rear kick panel isn't to toasty and I can use it in my car.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps4120be6d.jpg)
The crusty looking stuff on the rear kick panel is foam that has melted a bit (thinners), it's also has a bit of surface rust under it... Don't put open cell foam on steel people, it holds moisture and rusts!
It's a nice piece (now :) ), I just have to decide if I use it.
Attaching it at the back using the kick panel should be fairly straightforward as it can be rosette welded from above onto the parcel shelf, then a simple vertical butt weld on each side to the existing kick panel (if i cut it to the right width that is). The front is more contentious as it means separating/cutting about 10cm of the good front floors, the gearbox housing spot welds (easy enough) and the middle chassis cross members off the tunnel to remove it.... oh, and the handbrake.
I'm very tempted to attach the floors to the tunnel before I fit them which will save me welding underneath later. When done it will be 'as new' but it does seem a bit of a palaver. I mean I could just patch the double tunnel and move on, who'd know ?? (Shh, Internets people are watching)
Interested in anybody's thoughts as to how to assemble and if it's worth it.
Anybody there?
I am using new rear floors from Classic Alfa.
I also have new front floors but don't *think* I will need them.
I don't have good access to the underneath, it's on it's wheels.
Craig - I reckon rather than selling this off you should stich it back together and just drive and enjoy it - it sounds like it's mechanically pretty good, and it's just the cut/shut that's the issue for you - In which case, just enjoy it for what it is :)
I spent the first couple of years daily driving my rusty GTV and flogging it through the hills - they're fantastic fun when you're not too precious about them!
Come to car/coffee tomorrow and talk shit and look at cars :)
And fwiw, it was probably cut/shut before the previous owner bought it - I'd suspect it's a 70's or 80's repair job...
There is nothing actually wrong or illegal about a cut and shut if done properly, there are guidelines that the RTA, VicRoads and the others have regarding this, might be worth a read.
Looks like the perfect GTA rep candidate to me!
Good luck with sale.
Totally agree with Ben, get out there and use it. Who cares if it's cut and shut as long as it's structurally sound I don't see a problem. If it doesn't have holes in the panels you can put your fist through and it's mechanically sweet then that's a good 105 in my book. They can't all be show queens and nor should they be. Besides if you sell it you know you'll get overwhelmed with the amount of work on the Duetto and buy something else. Also if you decide to keep it I won't be tempted to make you an offer ;)
Better the devil you know. Hang in there mate, you can do it :)
Hej
Thanks for all the replies, I've been away up Hervey Bay for a Father's Day weekend with Finn at our grandmas, internet free.
I'm not worried about the cut and shut aspects of the car and agree this is most likely how they repaired them back in the day. The repair happened when the car was still AR727 Metallic Silver and somebody obviously cared enough about the car and repair job to maintain this colour throughout. The sill welding is quite neat and the location of the tunnel welding has clearly had some thought applied to it to retain strength for the seat belts.
With the floors and tunnel replaced it will be just as good as new in my mind, if not better than those running around with unknown trouble spots waiting to be addressed or explored correctly. The only question then will be the sills and how/where it was joined around the C pillars. Areas that would get explored and addressed as required when the thing has roadworthy and can be used.
My reasons for listing it are not related to the condition, more a rationalisation of projects to help me focus over the next three months. There's change coming. I could probably finish the floors quite quickly. Although I do wonder if this would help sell it. There are several tens of 105 coupes in all manner of fettle and price for sale at any time in Aust. that just don't seem to shift.
I'd also likely want to keep as it would be a known quantity to me at least, my mum (75) fell in love with pictures of it over the weekend and said I can park it at her place just so she can look at it *L* maybe take up driving again.
Decided to weld up the ten or so trim holes in the tunnel after successfully removing all the spot weld nuggets and old crossmember bits ....
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps6e37d2a0.jpg)
After this quite successful start I managed to blow massive holes everywhere else ::)
The transmission tunnel is paper thin (0.7mm)
I hate it. Having beers instead.
Must agree--beer helps
Get your hands on a big chunk of brass (or Alloy) and hold it behind where you're welding - helps alot with blowing of holes.
It's been a difficult month, just wanted to say thanks to those I've been in contact with. Small steps, onwards. Finn and his mum left OS today for a few weeks/mths should give me some time to sort/plan/action some things for myself.
A special thank you to Keith, when you're next in Brissy please let me buy you that beer.
So, after a good month pfaffing around with the 'new' tunnel I decided not to use it as it was just going to increase and complicate the floor build time. I've wasted a month (on and off) with it already so decided to simply patch the original tunnel as planned and fit the floor.
Managed to move a fair bit forward on Saturday. The floor needed a little bit more fettling after these pics but is essentially, correctly in place. I had planed to seam weld (inch on, inch off) from the top as I couldnt be arsed drilling a 100 or so holes and rosette welding upside down for that factory look.. This car is not factory - it will be honest, strong, clean and hopefully acceptable in the end though.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpsea47971b.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps0d8ef637.jpg)
My tunnel patch, I need to grind down the welds here and clean up the birdshot. Also discovered the tunnel contour doesn't quite follow the new floor very well, although now I'm a tunnel expert I can declare this tunnel solid but nasty. Nothing a bit of hammering won't fix.. Looking forward to it :)
You can also see the toast in the rear kick panel.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg3_zps615a47d3.jpg)
Perfect fit on the inside sill. I will cut through the front (new and old currently overlayed) to get a perfect line and butt weld this joint.
Yesterday I folded up a replacement kick panel/patch from 40x1.5mm flat to replace all the toast on the bottom of the rear kick panel. It's a fairly hefty panel at 1.5mm thick and I figured it's probably hefty for a reason, so fixed it properly. Much easier to weld 1.5mm steel. Although harder to fold, bend and weld up the corner contours
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpsc8650798.jpg)
Following on with this little success, I also chose to drill eleventy billion holes and rosette/plug weld the floor in from underneath. Managed to butt weld the front and then get three plugs done at the back before the light failed. The floor is much thinner steel (1mm) and harder to weld, upside down, in the dark.
As of this afternoon I just need to weld up the tunnel side, attach the two rear seat mounts, clean up the welds and paint. I decided to mimic the factory spot welds as closely as possible in the end as they're invisible from above or in the car. It looks nice :)
Only set fire to myself a few times
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpsc5d99213.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg2_zps9815a419.jpg)
There's a cover plate that goes on the end of the rear swing arm that I need to bend up and attach. I suspect it's just to protect the bush from detritus as I can't imagine it adds any strength given it's welded to the floorpan.
I think it's worth saving
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps6a069005.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpsd579282f.jpg)
yep worth saving!
Love the new floors, i was so tempted to get them for my current project, but didn't make much sense when the $ could have been better spent on speed!, if it was my road car then that would be a different story
Those kick panels on the drivers side always rust badly, your repair looks good though
The little bracket that closes of the trailing arm mounts is definitely worth putting back in, its not so much the connection back to the floor, more the fact that it "boxes" in the trailing arm mount and therefor ads some rigidity in that area
Cheers Colin, it's easy enough to fold up, will look to it tomorrow along with placing the rear seat mounts and some paint... to stop it rusting :)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps12bb98aa.jpg)
Getting there.
Great too see you ended up perservering with it--well done--its looking good
Floor painted and seats and stuff fitted.
Driving her up to Hervey Bay tomorrow to put her in deep storage on my sisters property for 6-12mths or so while I reset my life to single.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zpsa6f6bd02.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/craig_m5/imagejpg1_zps898e5147.jpg)
Here endith the Junior for the moment.
Need to get the Duetto mobile.
Hi there, loving your persistence. Who rebuilt your starter motor? looks fantastic :)