Hi, is the oil filter for a 156 jts(2006) any different than the earlier jts's. Low funds have prompted me to start doing my own maintenance! However, i have lots of time on my hands and any advice on a basic service would be greatly appreciated , thanks
There are 2 types of oil filters for 156 JTS's early and late, i would assume that the first series of the JTS, 2002 - 2004 had the early type oil filters and the second series of the JTS, 2004 - 2006 had the late type, ....although, they may have made a change halfway through a particular run.
My JTS is the early one, 2002, and i have used small and large oil filters on it, i think the 2nd series JTS had different exhaust / cats, that restricted the size of the oil filter, so the later ones used a smaller filter.
Some filter catalogues list 2 filters, some only list one, a smaller filter that fits both series.
The filters are tiny, compared to the big one in my 33, so on the 156 i would change it every oil change as it can't have much filtering capacity, Colin.
When i say big and small filters, i should have said short and long, from what i have seen, the early JTS has a longer distance, between filter mount and exhaust pipe, so it uses longer filter, the later JTS has bigger pipe, so less distance to fit in filter, while you are changing the filter, check for leaks around the sump and oil heat exchanger, a know source of leaks, Colin.
Thanks Col, i purchased both sizes to be sure from bursons in Mornington and will return the one i don't need, the one that is shorter in in fact wider.I'm really surprised how reliable this car has been, not a hiccup since the lamda connections were cleaned. Is that picture of your's the 70's oz tv star 'deadly Earnest'?
It doesn't seem to matter that much about the diameter, there is a bit of room there, its the height or length that is the issue, my JTS has been good too, but then again i look after it, no that picture is really me me!, you must meet me one day to confirm, who is this Deadly fellow anyway to which you refer to?, Colin.
Hey, i can't get the sump plug off!, i'm afraid to use more force because of damaging it. Is this normal?The allen key fits snuggly but it's like it's welded on
Make sure you are going anti clockwise, give the sump plug a few taps with a ball peen hammer to 'shock' it loose, squirt some WD-40 on it, as it may have seized on the outside of the sump, get a paint stripper heat gun and apply some heat to it, and at a last resort if this doesn't work, try some spray freeze that freezes the plug and causes it to contract and have a bit of movement on the threads.
When i first got my JTS, the sump plug had been mangled and i ended up getting off with a spline socket that i hammered in, as the hex was all rounded off.
This seems a problem on these motors as there are a few sump plugs for sale off ebay, and you need a washer with a seal in it, you can see them as they are usually for sale with the sump plug, i was curious when i purchased mine, as to see what sort of tool i had to use on it, it was a hexagon head socket, like for cap screws, Colin.
Can I ask if you are using an allen key shaped like a "L". The "L" allen key will not give you enough leverage to undo the plug. Perhaps.
You might want to, instead, use a 3/8" allen key socket, fitted to a long 3/8" ratchet, giving you more leverage, turning anti clockwise of course.
Just a thought.
Ha Ha,i just used a'L' shaped key and destroyed it! I'v got if of though, used another hex shape connected to a wrench and me using my legs, all my might, wd40 and the help of three angry gorilla's. As it turns out, it wasn't a hex shape bolt!, but it hung on. Oil filter came off nicely.Tanks for advice.
As i said, a sump plug is quite easy to buy new, this must happen often, use a torque wrench when you put the new one on, use a low profile hex tool next time, so that when you put some elbow into it, it doesn't try and twist out, Colin.
No offence intended here, but it sounds like you have minimal mechanical knowledge, and the reason you want to do the work yourself is to save money correct?
yes, although i have always done my own oil changes,spark plugs, air filter etc, but i wouln't try and do the cambelt myself. I found some copper washers on ebay. Talking about the cambelt, it's only done 20k since the last change but 3 years is nearly up?
Saving money and owning an Alfa Romeo are generally two things that don't go together. I admire your determination in wanting to maintain the car yourself but be careful as any mistakes you make may end up costing you more in the long run. :-\
Thanks, i think il' do the sump plug better next time with the right tool
When you get a new sump plug get a new washer as well, some call them Dowty washers or bonded seal washers, don't use copper washers as they don't have a seal on them, and torque it up to about 15 lbs, like i said, low profile 1/2 inch drive hexagon socket that won't twist out, the sump plugs are very soft and round off easily.
The cambelts go hard with age, the minute you take it out of the box and expose it to heat / cold / oil, etc it starts to harden and the teeth will seperate from the belt, the belts rarely break, if you ever see up close the cam belt setup in a JTS or Twin Spark, you will be amazed at the amount of work they do, they are not under engineered, Colin.
It's not just the belt itself but the tensioner and idler bearings that wear.
If it's been 3 years I definitely recommend a cam belt kit.
If you are in Melbourne there are several specialists who advertise on this website and have reasonable rates to do the job.
And yes a dowdy washer is very important to use on the sump plug.
An 8mm 1/2' drive socket will work on the sump plug.
Cheers. - mick
The belts are a time thing as they go hard and brittle from day 1, the tensioners wear out with distance, but even though they may not have much wear, the grease in them hardens up and fails to lubricate, then they get noisy, and while you are changing the cam belt, the tensioners are there just looking at you, just change them, Colin.
Good on you T-rex for having a go at maintaining your Alfa, as you know oil is a critical part of the car, it is like blood. Change oil regularly with the right oil and the JTS will be good to you. Build up a good set of tools and things will get easier, or just have a BFH on hand.
I would have advised you practice and learn car maintenance on a Toyota!!! But you have an Alfa, so keep asking questions and lots of people here will be able to help and point you in the right direction.
Re: timing belt, you could jump on the East Link and you will be at Monza Motors in Bayswater in no time, they do only Alfa's and they will look after you.
And if you want some inspiration on all things mechanical, look at Scotty Kilmer on Youtube, but leave cam belt changes to the proffesionals, and for the cam belt changes you need cam locks, Top Dead Centre gauges, tensioner pulley setting tools, etc, expensive for a one off cam belt change, Colin.
Thanks for all of your advice, i'll get a quote from 'Monza', and i think i'l need a new variator and water pump. Is there much difference in quality in the cam belt kits? I can land one from uk a lot cheaper than local retailers but even with the stocks in the uk,the prices vary considerably. The 'dayco' kits seem to be quite common
I would only replace the variator if its noisy and your car sounds like a diesel, but replace the water pump every second cam belt change, if unknown, replace it, as it is part of the cam belt tensioning system.
The timing belt kits are Genuine, Dayco, Gates, Continental, they are all good, but buy brand names from known retailers, try Italian Automotive Spares in Brunswick, [9036 1606], as they are a club sponsor and they know their stuff, Colin.
Changed the oil in the JTS today, still managed to get half the oil on the floor, the oil is so thin, 10 viscosity and its hot, when you take off the sump plug, the oil rushes out and hits the bottom of the drain pan and flows back up the side of the drain pan, onto the floor, need to look for a deeper drain pan.
To change the tiny JTS oil filter you need a strap wrench that is flexible enough to twist it around the filter to avoid snagging on the cat, but its in a great position, nice and easy to get at it, Colin.
We use these for removing oil filters.
(http://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Objects_lg/images/YA4274.jpg)
Ha, I can't afford Snap On, but use a SCA one, $17 and works a treat like the Snap On. It was on sale the other day for about $13. But there is that certain prestigious feeling about using Snap On tools.
Mmmmmm, tools.............., mmmmmm, power tools.........................
Found a good oil drain pan, it has 15 litres capacity, has a decent pouring spout, for tipping the used oil back into an old container, and it has a ridge on top, similar to the top of a toilet bowl, to stop the oil flowing over the top, it is quite solid, cost $28 at Bursons, Autobahn had a similar one, but it was a bit flimsy for $25, Repco only had the type that i already have that don't stop the oil flowing over the side, seen similar type on ebay, but postage was a bit steep, because it was a bulky package, Colin.
All good, thanks for your reply's. Now the fun really starts!, air filter. I removed the three bolts(that separate the air filter housing) but don't know what to do next, I don't want to remove any thing that I can't put back! Does the air pipe unclip from the filter housing?, does the MAF come off?
You have to unclip the flexible rubber pipe at the top of the air cleaner housing, if i remember rightly, you need special pliers to unhook the hose clamp, so naturally, i cut it off and replaced it with a normal hose clamp, to make it easier next time, when you get the air cleaner element out, there will be a lot of rubbish in the bottom of the air cleaner housing, as it is low to the ground, and sucks up rubbish off the ground.
Thats why it is important in a GT, 147, GTV and 156, that you don't drive through water as it will pick up water easy and you can hydraulic your engine, a few years ago after the Queensland floods, there were a few sad cases of the above mentioned cars with water damaged engines, Colin.
Quote from: colcol on April 23, 2014, 04:45:58 PM
Found a good oil drain pan, it has 15 litres capacity, has a decent pouring spout, for tipping the used oil back into an old container, and it has a ridge on top, similar to the top of a toilet bowl, to stop the oil flowing over the top, it is quite solid, cost $28 at Bursons, Autobahn had a similar one, but it was a bit flimsy for $25, Repco only had the type that i already have that don't stop the oil flowing over the side, seen similar type on ebay, but postage was a bit steep, because it was a bulky package, Colin.
You can find empty 25L clear polypropylene containers around, free, just cut to size, say, 2/3 and you have 15L capacity. Just an idea as I have heaps around and recently helped to drain and store 95L of diesel.
Every time i drain the oil in the 156, its ends up on the garage floor, i could not quite work out why, so i actually watched it, instead of allowing to drain while i do something else, and what happens is, it runs up the side of the drain pan and over the side, the new one is like a toilet, in so far that it has lip on the top to stop the oil flowing over the side, never happens with the 33, as it has thicker oil 20-50, where the 156 has 10-60, the 25 litre containers have a large radius on the bottom that helps the oil flow up the side, i cannot beleive what a mess i always make, but it gives a use for old newspapers, Colin.