Hi all.
Back on here after a bit of a hiatus. Yesterday took ownership of a new addition to the family.
Sold this...
http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=4878.0
....when my twin daughters arrived in 2012 to be replaced by a sensible family wagon.
But the 105 fire was still burning in my heart and so after a fair bit of searching I pulled the trigger on a 1970 GTJ 1300 stepnose 'project'.
Got delivered yesterday to my rented lockup and so the story continues. Little bit daunted by the state of it. Mostly complete but in need of a full restoration! (Is rustoration a word!?!)
Historical info from Centro Documentazione Alfa Romeo (FGA) states
"According to our documentation files, the chassis number AR 1293426 originally corresponds to an Alfa Romeo GT 1300 Junior RHD (105.31), manufactured on the 17th October 1970 and sent to Alfa Romeo Australia, Sydney. The body colour is hawthorn white, with black skai interiors."
If and when I get the time will be stripping it down and then off to Paul Rankin for assessment.
Then I look forward to asking a million questions on here. Have been reading everything I can on here and the BB. Obsessed isn't the word.
Pics next time I'm there.
Cheers!
Awesome news !
That's great, good to see your back
And another Junior
Fantastic
Quote from: Ursus on January 16, 2014, 11:13:15 AM
The body colour is hawthorn white, with black skai interiors
Ah, the best combo ;)
So after having stored the Jnr at a friends garage for the last 9 months without being able to get there, I'm now moving it to my parents in laws place so I can begin to tinker.
One thing is that when it got dropped at my mates it was with a hydraulic tilt flatbed truck. Now it's in a garage at the top of a very steep slope.
Anyone got any good ideas on how to get it down said slope without working brakes?
Block and tackle with a long chain?
Be adventurous!
4wd in front with a mattress between the cars, crawl the 4wd down the slope in low gear on a dry day.
Ha! Like it. Although that sounds a little crazy, it also seems easier in my mind. Will have to enlist the brother-in-law.
I had another think - if you can bolt something to the bumper mounts to distance the nose cone from the car in front you can protect the metalwork (nose) - I'd take everything off the front end first to ensure no tears.
There's an idea. You know the bolt hole diameter off the top of your head?
I'm not that much of a nutbag.👳
Quote from: Ursus on October 22, 2014, 02:55:19 PM
There's an idea. You know the bolt hole diameter off the top of your head?
(http://tomfoolerystore.com.au/tomdat/product_images/N81086/1.jpg)
You'd need a long shank bolt M10 x 1.25 me thinks from what I can see
of my bumper bolts and mounts in the garage
Will try to attach a pic
Ha! Nice work Evan. Thanks guys.
So I'm picking the 105 up from storage this weekend. Considering I'm fairly green when it comes to this stuff (although I'm reading a lot here and on the BB) what's the best way of establishing what needs replacing / fixing in terms of body work. Electric sander? Paint stripper? I'm going to get as hands on as I can where possible. Thanks.
Thanks for those specs Pep.
Any chance you could measure the distance between the bolts for me if you get a moment? I'm making a hilbilly bubmper bar.
:)
Hey mate,
Using my sophisticated calibrated measuring equipment ;) :D
740-745mm pitch to pitch (centre of bolt hole to centre of bolt hole)
If your making a hillbilly bumper I'd slot the holes just in case, as yours is a stepnose
there might be a slight difference there too.
Cheers
Pep
Legend. Thank you. I'll post pics for hilarity.
Wow. What a day! So the angle of the drive was so steep it rendered my hillbilly bumper useless as the first contact was bull bar to heart grille. Luckily a spare tyre was just right to go around the heart and protect. Towed the car to the in laws and now have it somewhere I can work on it. First step I guess is to strip it down. I'll post pics as I go if people are interested.
On the trailer.
Got the car into the garage with a bit of help. Either one of the brakes is seized on slightly of the tyres are a bit too flat.
Began removing things and keeping bags of parts labelled for reference.
Sadly the heart has a small crack and underneath what I thought were really tired lenses (actually domed plastic covers) there are a set of crystal clear Hellas. I'm guessing they should be Carellos and so have been replaced at some stage.
Hellas
Looks like you've got some space to work on it !
Does it need a new nose? Looks like it's had a few hits and pulls.
To be honest Pancho, it needs a new lot of things. Deff a nose, front guards, outer rockers (so far) and some front floors/patches. Then there's the trim... How's your stock looking? :)
Going to do the April welding course at Kangan to see if I'm feeling brave enough. Also, about half way through your BB resto thread. Had a great day taking it apart though. Archaeology it certainly is.
It looks like a great project and as you get stuck into it, I am sure you will find plenty of interesting past panel work, let alone problems (rust, bog etc). But it is all repairable, given the availability of parts.
BTW there is absolutely nothing wrong with Hellas, especially H4s. I had these on my 1750 GTV and would have them anyday over Carellos. Carellos to me stand for candle power, nice to look at but totally useless for lighting up the road at night. I had Carellos in my 124 sport and was glad to ditch them in favour of some decent Marchals. But each to their own of course ;D
Today's finds. Seeing as it's a 1970 1300 Jnr And it appears to have had some front end work (badly) done, I was wondering if it had had a retrospective facelift (facedrop?) at some stage. This however would be contradictory to the 'body mods' that have been made to make it feel newer.
C-pillar 'upgrade'.
Rebadge
Probably due to this...under years of crud.
If my (limited) knowledge is correct, this 1750 is more sought after than, say a 2000 engine. As it is not correct in mine I'd happily trade for a working/warm 2000 if that might be interesting for someone.
I have some 40dcoe Webers and the original airbox, but this motor clearly needs some love.
If that is madness, then I'll be sending this to someone for refurb at some point.
Thanks for the info, David. Maybe I'll see what they look like 'on' before I give them up then.
At this stage I'm dreaming of a fast road car that is as original looking as possible while still being able to take it to the track if I can.
Seeing what's ahead will help!
So my work so far has been taking the car apart when I'm with it, and bringing things home to refurbish when I'm not.
First up is the gauge cluster.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/IMG_9587_zps6f2ea7b7.jpg)
Seems one is Veglia and one Jaeger.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/IMG_9590_zps9085a74f.jpg)
I'm assuming one has been replaced at some point? Anyone know what is correct for a late (S1?) stepnose Jnr?
The Veglia unit has some seal problems as can be seen. Seems to my untrained eye, that these units are sealed. Anyone had one open?
Also, is there an easy way to check they are working?
Thanks for any info.
Also have been collecting various parts and panels. Hoping to do a welding/restoration course soon.
Will post results for a laugh when I have them.
What manufacturer are the main gauges - that will tell you which one has been replaced - I'd guess at the Fuel gauge.
You can open them up by carefully prying the tabs on the back of the bezels - they're chromed brass, so if you break a tab, you can solder the bezel into place if you have a decent soldering iron and sand a localised patch of the main casing back to bare steel, and a localised area of the bezel back to brass.
I believe the Jaeger and Veglia petrol gauges have senders that are a) specific to the gauge, and b) operate in the wrong direction when swapped.
Thanks La Strega, I'll have a look this weekend when I'm with the car. The back of the Jaeger seems to have been messed with at some point too. The Veglia mount is much more elegant a design.
Veglia's are way easier to pull apart. Keep stripping it and zip lock bagging the bits. Just dont make my mistake and write on them with ink that fades with time...