- Welcome to Alfa Romeo Owners Club of Australia Forum.
Recent posts
#1
116 Series (Alfetta Sedan/GT/GTV & Giulietta Sedan) / DHLA40 carb woes.
Last post by simmi1983 - May 08, 2024, 07:06:02 PMHi all,
Ive overhauled my DHLA40 carbs on my Alfetta 2 litre nord with new carby kits because I was chasing a no power scenario. When I snapped the throttle to full throttle( it would just splutter and not rev) so I did all the seals, gaskets, cleaned everything and checked the float levels etc and put them back on. Cleaned the plugs,checked compression and fired it up. Now it won't idle and seems to run out of fuel when I hold it steady at 2500rpm. I've made it worse!
Here's what I've done.
*I've rechecked the float levels- 15mm from gasket to floats and 27mm from body to fuel.
*Started at a base of 4 turns out on the mixture screws and then winding them out slowly to try to get it to idle- still won't idle
*Checked the ignition timing- ok.
*Reset the balance screw and even checked looking through the progression holes.
* constantly cleaning up fowled plugs everytime I try something new.
Here's the interesting 2 things.
I have 3psi fuel pressure but when I crank it over with the fuel line into a bottle I only get 120ml after 20 seconds.. surely this isn't enough flow right?
The 2nd thing is when the engine is off and I pump the acellerator to activate the accellerator pumps, I can hear the rear 2 squirt a significant time before the front 2 do.
Any insight to what's going on would be awesome but mainly I'm concerned about the accelerator pumps not squirting at the same time.
Thanks in advance,
Luke
Ive overhauled my DHLA40 carbs on my Alfetta 2 litre nord with new carby kits because I was chasing a no power scenario. When I snapped the throttle to full throttle( it would just splutter and not rev) so I did all the seals, gaskets, cleaned everything and checked the float levels etc and put them back on. Cleaned the plugs,checked compression and fired it up. Now it won't idle and seems to run out of fuel when I hold it steady at 2500rpm. I've made it worse!
Here's what I've done.
*I've rechecked the float levels- 15mm from gasket to floats and 27mm from body to fuel.
*Started at a base of 4 turns out on the mixture screws and then winding them out slowly to try to get it to idle- still won't idle
*Checked the ignition timing- ok.
*Reset the balance screw and even checked looking through the progression holes.
* constantly cleaning up fowled plugs everytime I try something new.
Here's the interesting 2 things.
I have 3psi fuel pressure but when I crank it over with the fuel line into a bottle I only get 120ml after 20 seconds.. surely this isn't enough flow right?
The 2nd thing is when the engine is off and I pump the acellerator to activate the accellerator pumps, I can hear the rear 2 squirt a significant time before the front 2 do.
Any insight to what's going on would be awesome but mainly I'm concerned about the accelerator pumps not squirting at the same time.
Thanks in advance,
Luke
#2
105/115 Series (105 Coupe/Spider/Berlina) / Any value in a 2L Nord
Last post by Craig_m67 - May 08, 2024, 07:03:21 PMI have a 2L Nord in the Duetto (alfetta block I think) sitting up here with Delortos and "some" headers. It was built (not me) and then immediately ran faultlessly from Melbourne to Brisbane where it was parked, never to torque again, in 2012. How many K's is that?
I was going to pull it apart for the oil pump, sump and a few bits to build up a twin spark.. but then I wondered if there's any $ value in it.
What are they worth, does anybody want a 2L Nord?
I was going to pull it apart for the oil pump, sump and a few bits to build up a twin spark.. but then I wondered if there's any $ value in it.
What are they worth, does anybody want a 2L Nord?
#3
939 Series (159, Brera and Brera Spider) / 159Ti - Driver side window reg...
Last post by MattK - May 08, 2024, 04:09:25 PMHi all, just had the joy of winding down the driver's window and watching it slide further down into the door while the motor whirred trying to push it up. After a tricky disassembly in light rain, I was able to retrieve the window, but the regulator motor whirs without moving the window mounts, and on inspection the nylon gear that fits into the receiver on the cable mechanism is cracked through, so the shaft spins but doesn't turn the gear. I'm guessing I can't just replace the gear itself because it wouldn't be bonded to the shaft?
(edit) or maybe this? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225497622265
Any pointers or advice will be gratefully received.
(edit) or maybe this? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225497622265
Any pointers or advice will be gratefully received.
#4
932 Series (156, GTV, Spider, 147, GT, and 166) / Re: Great balls of fire...
Last post by poohbah - May 08, 2024, 11:31:18 AMI know this thread has been dormant for 8 years - but thought worth adding my experience to it, as I've just experienced the very same issue as JohnL on my '02 GTA.
Three weeks ago, at just under 269,000km I was sure I had killed the best car I've ever owned.
I had just refuelled, when the Engine Control Failure warning came on, car started running rough and then smoke began pouring out the exhaust. Thinking it was maybe just dirty fuel sending ECU haywire, pulled over, shut down then tried to restart.
Crank, then Clunk, then ... nothing. Dead.
Fearing the timing belt (not due for another year or so) had failed, and had then taken out the valve train and seized the engine, I peeked through the gap in the cover and could see the belt was completely intact. Then my fear became maybe it's big end failure.
Had the car trucked to the workshop, and asked them to give me the bad news when they'd had time to investigate. Initial thoughts were maybe it had dropped a valve. I was completely devastated. Either way, it had to be bad news: full or partial rebuild, or source a replacement engine. Lots of time and lots of money.
Til Monday, when I dropped by the workshop to see if anything had progressed. Car was no longer outside - which could be good or bad. Workshop owner saw me and waved me inside - the car is running!
Long story short - no dropped valve or big end failure. Injector on rear bank failed and dumped a ton of fuel into one cylinder, which caused everything that followed. Luckily no signs of any collateral damage or fuel in oil or sump.
They replaced the injector and three rear coil packs (one was a bit dicky), and the car is now home and running beautifully again.
So relieved - I had been in presumptive mourning for nearly three weeks - during which I had to press the old girl ('81 GTV) back into daily service. Credit to her, she managed peak hour traffic with relative ease - apart from the one night it poured, and my dicky wipers went on the blink. So happy to have the GTA back, and let the GTV have a well earned rest. Phew...
Three weeks ago, at just under 269,000km I was sure I had killed the best car I've ever owned.
I had just refuelled, when the Engine Control Failure warning came on, car started running rough and then smoke began pouring out the exhaust. Thinking it was maybe just dirty fuel sending ECU haywire, pulled over, shut down then tried to restart.
Crank, then Clunk, then ... nothing. Dead.
Fearing the timing belt (not due for another year or so) had failed, and had then taken out the valve train and seized the engine, I peeked through the gap in the cover and could see the belt was completely intact. Then my fear became maybe it's big end failure.
Had the car trucked to the workshop, and asked them to give me the bad news when they'd had time to investigate. Initial thoughts were maybe it had dropped a valve. I was completely devastated. Either way, it had to be bad news: full or partial rebuild, or source a replacement engine. Lots of time and lots of money.
Til Monday, when I dropped by the workshop to see if anything had progressed. Car was no longer outside - which could be good or bad. Workshop owner saw me and waved me inside - the car is running!
Long story short - no dropped valve or big end failure. Injector on rear bank failed and dumped a ton of fuel into one cylinder, which caused everything that followed. Luckily no signs of any collateral damage or fuel in oil or sump.
They replaced the injector and three rear coil packs (one was a bit dicky), and the car is now home and running beautifully again.
So relieved - I had been in presumptive mourning for nearly three weeks - during which I had to press the old girl ('81 GTV) back into daily service. Credit to her, she managed peak hour traffic with relative ease - apart from the one night it poured, and my dicky wipers went on the blink. So happy to have the GTA back, and let the GTV have a well earned rest. Phew...
#5
Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / F.S. Rebuilt Transaxle
Last post by MD - May 07, 2024, 08:43:15 PMRebuilt Alfetta/GTV Transaxle
1.Full case cleaning inside and out.
2.Synchromesh rings, dogs, and hubs either replaced for units in excellent
condition or rotated as appropriate for best performance.
3.New pinion bearing as precaution. All other bearings ,good.
4.New input shaft and selector shaft seals
5.Newly machined and lightened clutch flywheel, new clutch disc and new low
profile Japanese pressure plate installed.
6.Rear rubber suspension good.
7.Function switches all repaired.
8.Speedo drive function tested, good.
9.Breather vent cleaned.
10.Fresh 75W90 mineral oil filled as per factory specs.
11.Clucth input shaft rubber coupling in good serviceable condition
12.All new casing assembly bolts and nuts.
13.Open 4.1:1 differential.
$2,950 plus shipping.
Free delivery to Brisbane metropolitan area.
Phone contact me on ofouronenine,triplefour,doublesevenfive. Or leave message on Forum.
1.Full case cleaning inside and out.
2.Synchromesh rings, dogs, and hubs either replaced for units in excellent
condition or rotated as appropriate for best performance.
3.New pinion bearing as precaution. All other bearings ,good.
4.New input shaft and selector shaft seals
5.Newly machined and lightened clutch flywheel, new clutch disc and new low
profile Japanese pressure plate installed.
6.Rear rubber suspension good.
7.Function switches all repaired.
8.Speedo drive function tested, good.
9.Breather vent cleaned.
10.Fresh 75W90 mineral oil filled as per factory specs.
11.Clucth input shaft rubber coupling in good serviceable condition
12.All new casing assembly bolts and nuts.
13.Open 4.1:1 differential.
$2,950 plus shipping.
Free delivery to Brisbane metropolitan area.
Phone contact me on ofouronenine,triplefour,doublesevenfive. Or leave message on Forum.
#6
Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / 105 Carrello Lights
Last post by hylandian47 - May 07, 2024, 04:17:04 PMLeft over from various restoration projects the following "used" lights.
Carrello 072-45-800 ;3 of. 072-40-800; 2 of. 072-46-800 1 of. 084-80-800 4 of.
Let me know what you need and we will do a deal.
Carrello 072-45-800 ;3 of. 072-40-800; 2 of. 072-46-800 1 of. 084-80-800 4 of.
Let me know what you need and we will do a deal.
#7
Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / 105 GTV Carpet
Last post by hylandian47 - May 07, 2024, 04:10:34 PMComplete new and unused 105 GTV Boot Carpet only. CA part number IN059, Black with vinyl bound edges. 7 Pieces in total. Unused in my latest restoration, i used rubber instead. Price $290 ex Goldcoast
#8
Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / 105 Exhaust components
Last post by hylandian47 - May 07, 2024, 04:04:55 PMI have available the above new unused exhaust components. EX007 Front exhaust section, EX012 Middle Section, EX034 Fitting Kit, EX047 Rear Muffler. Complete setup only $580 ex Goldcoast. Photos available on request, too large for Forum site.
#9
Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / Giulia Super Seats
Last post by hylandian47 - May 07, 2024, 03:58:07 PMSurplus to my GS restoration, A very good pair of front seats out of a 1970 GS. Original charcoal viyl, some splitting on drivers seat stitching, absolutely complete with seat slides and adjust levers. More photos on request. Price $700 pair.
#10
116 Series (Alfetta Sedan/GT/GTV & Giulietta Sedan) / Re: Giulietta door mirror
Last post by pafiat - May 04, 2024, 08:28:19 AMIt has a plastic shell