The dipstick tube (technical term!) on my Alfetta 2.0 GTV is loose (wobbles and can be spun around) and seems to be leaking oil from where it goes into the block.
I've put up with it for a fair while and did mention it last time I was in the workshop (not with the GTV) but got the impression that it is a bit of a faff to replace.
Any ideas how to remove and repair? I understand it's a press fit and access isn't great being below the exhaust manifold.
I couldn't see any obvious way to grip it without squeezing, scratching or mis-shaping it, which I would like to avoid (I don't have a replacement part on hand).
So as an alternative, is there an effective way to reseal it with some kind of sealant? If so, what?
Hi Poohbah
I checked the dipstick tube that connects to block and mine also spins around but not sloppy as you describe. I examined for any signs of oil leaks around the connection point and all is fine (dry). Have not attempted to pull out dipstick tube for the fear of not broken don't touch it and checked the trusty Haynes manual for some detail with no luck. I imagine that the tube is held in with a suitable size O-ring that I suspect has failed or missing in your case (wobble).
cheers
bonno
Found this thread on AlfaBB which confirms the tube is a press fit, but doesn't actually mention an O-ring.
https://www.alfabb.com/threads/gtv-2l-dipstick-tube-to-block-connection.672842/#lg=thread-672842&slide=3 (https://www.alfabb.com/threads/gtv-2l-dipstick-tube-to-block-connection.672842/#lg=thread-672842&slide=3)
However the pic does show the tube has a groove which looks like it would hold an O-ring in place.
I'm still none the wiser as to how I might pull it out without damaging the tube. Or what might serve as an alternative fix. I have seen one reference to using JB Weld, which I suppose might be worth a try.
If you are unable to easily pull out dipstick tube with a reasonable amount of effort (care not to break), then the simple fix is to apply some silicone such as RTV (refer to link) around the perimeter of dipstick tube (properly clean area to be sealed and leave for 24 hours). The other option is to remove sump whereby giving access to the dipstick tube and using suitable size drift and hammer, hit the tube outwards to remove.
https://www.boltandnut.com.au/red-hi-temp-rtv-silicone-instant-gasket-85g-tube-pro-seal.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIldKV2NyA6QIVR6WWCh34gQYLEAYYAyABEgL9gvD_BwE
Cheers Bonno, might have to give the RTV a go.
Last time I tried to pull the tube out just couldn't get any purchase, and as you say, I don't want to damage it while trying.
I've seen quite a few RTV attempts to seal these; it only seems to work for a little while.
Personally I would chase up some Loctite 'wicking' sealer. You need to clean down the gap with brake clearer or similar & get it dry, then the
Loctite 'wicking' sealant migrates into the narrow gap, sets & seals. Bearing supply places used to supply it, not sure these days.
Back in the old days it used to be common use for porous magnesium Hewland racing transaxles at race tracks.
Yes, it even fixed best of British oil leaks!!! ;)
Vin.
Cheers Vin
Well I gave it one last good go to try and remove, but nothing doing. So I have ordered some appropriate goop online, and will try that instead.
In the meantime, also removed and repaired the front spoiler which looked like it had been over-friendly with more than one kerb in its lifetime. Central vented section was completely knackered - split right through in a bunch of places which had also robbed it of any structural integrity. It's a bit of a bush fix, but I simply cut out out the busted plastic centre vents and and replaced the whole section with a single neat section of metal colourbond mesh. Much tidier and no longer wobbles like grandma's backside.
I second Vin's recommendation. Loctite 290 Super Wick In (green).
You should only need to buy the smallest bottle available (it's not cheap). This video explains how to make red or blue loctite more 'wickable (at about the 8 min mark) :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iylMno-LLjc
Loctite may go by another name these days (Permatex), or there may be other brands. The wicking capability is what you need
Get the area as oil free as possible using a high volatility cleaner (brake cleaner, acetone etc). Blow with shop air if you can.
Apply around the tube and give it a turn/wiggle to help the loctite do its thing.
Chears Beatle, I've ordered Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant, which I think is the equivalent to Loctite 5770.
Progress report.
I applied the Permatex around the base of the tube yesterday, car is now in its weekly hibernation til the weekend which should give it plenty of time to set/seal.
Will report back as to whether it was a success.
Just closing the loop on this. After a couple of weeks of reasonable driving, Permatex did the trick, dipstick tube is firm with no movement, dry round the base, no more weeping.