When in doubt buy another Alfa. This can be done many ways. Arriving at the owner's home to find your almost purchased spider with its nose buried into the concrete post at the bottom of the steep driveway. See attached pic! We have gone on to purchase the spider from an auction house, organising its delivery from said auction to a repairer skilled in repairing said Bonnet
Can someone recommend a repairer in Brisbane. Thanks CC
You must be running your own restoration workshop there! How many Alfa projects you got running at the moment? :)
4 Alfa and one back deck.
The spider project is progressing; detailed discussions with two panelbeaters have been had.
One came to the car and over 20 minutes took many pictures and has given us a quote.
With the other panelbeater, a discussion was had in the shadow of the office on a hot afternoon here in Brisbane. Next to a sloping concrete forecourt full of cars.
Both are ok with the customer supplying panel parts and doing some of the dis-assenbly,which has started. See pics.
Wrecking yards were visited and the UKAlfaworkshop web site visited and a shopping list of service parts compiled waiting to be paid for.
The spider has been a Brisbane car all its life and with only 2 previous owners and being garaged is in pretty good nick. The momo pelle rossa seats and carpet show very little wear : )
Being a phase or series one; June 1998 build, its all alloy under the bonnet. Apart from the flat section guarding the pulleys on the side of the engine. So it looks great! No plastic inlet manifold.. So if the later cars don't appeal for they're plastic, this is the one to get.
Some quirky maintenance history includes using a black mastik? to plug a bad crack on the soft inlet manifold attached to the throttle body.. See pic. Also a soft orange sealant used to seal leaks on the rocker cover gasket.
The next step is to remove the buggered condensor and radiator. The air con is still pressurised so we are having a guy come in to de pressurise and capture the gas.
Ive included some other pics including the front chassis member drivers side. You can see its curved at its end and was hoping other spider people can confirm that this part of the original build of the car and not from the accident.
Removing the engine would make the panel work easier and be a good oppurtunity to remove and replace everything that moves on the outside of the engine : ) Also check the alternator and replace the thermostat and its housing and probably a few of the smaller coolant hoses.
Having the front stoved so the fans are touching the heat shield of the exhaust manifold is restricting things..
Really impressed by the build quality too..
side of engine
showing the trapped radiator and condensor.
Panel shop 101, don't cut the front crossrail yet. Span it from side to side with some strong hollow section like 100x100 and pull out the kink to slightly (2-5mm) past original line with a tough ratchet strap. As you've braced against the chassis ends, there's no further deformation to them.
i like the idea... will the ratchet strap be able to exert enough load force to pull out the rail sufficiently to make the radiator and condensor removal easier?
I do want to give the car over without the engine, to save labour and also see if something thats hidden has been damaged..
Will a panel beater with all the wiz bang gear; laser alignment.. do the same job as one without the wiz bang gear??
It comes down to skill and budget, in that capacity. The car almost certainly needs a little pulling, nearside rail up and out, offside probably just a shade up.
Your strapping job just needs a stout strap, not a cheesy piece of junk. You can also use instead, a chain loop joined with a shackle and tensioned with a scissor jack on the outside of your bracing beam - care is required to avoid it flipping over suddenly and causing injury.
Similar idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62FrpLfGY1c
Basic pulling, with informed commentary: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=be4TofjrAiM
Using laser to check dimensions/squareness: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxxmdJ2yJCQ
DIY trammels: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvm3v2Oqpt0
thanks : )
Another trap for young players, fun to watch but I'm not likely to be there so I'll clue you in. ;D
Once the AC is degassed, immediately "crack" the system. Otherwise it will build up pressure again and when you do open it, invariably you'll have your mouth open, gabbing to a mate and a good blast of PAG46 oil will spray right into the cakehole. Plug the refrigerant lines promptly, clean rag smeared in Vaseline and tightly twisted in, is one good measure. You can flush everything with shellite or Wurth brake cleaner afterwards, when it gets to reassembly.
Hi
CB's method for pulling out a bent front rail works : ) It does load up with some force.... was idly thinking about the stored energy as i wound out the jack... The Warning from CB didnt register!
Beforehand a cigarette paper wouldnt fit between the bent back componentry and the exhaust manifolds heat shield.
After the unbending was able to take out fans and radiator and air filter box. Am de gassing the condensor before removing it.
Happily the bend in the fans housing is fixable.Fans are ok.
The heat shield fitting (like a tin meat pie tray) over a fan motor is not too badly damaged.
The air filter box has a hole punched by an air con fitting. Should be repairable too with plastic welding.
A knowledgeable chap observed that the fibreglass bonnet in its damaged areas, didnt contain as much resin or the same resin as in a yacht hull. This not to say it cracked where it did because of a lack of resin, just that the resin and quantity of is different. See pics below of after the 'rail adjustment' and some parts for repair.
The exhaust headers are amazing. Interestingly the pipes are a smaller diameter than the 156 V6. Even tho The 156 has 0.416L/cylinder and the spider 0.5L/cylinder.
the damaged air box and a v nice 1998 alfa rim. Am after a alfa centre insert as in this one..
Added a pic of the repair to the air box.
Came out well, looks like the nearside chassis nose might just need a little massaging when the crossrail is replaced. Now save some dosh and fix the bonnet.
Fibreglass hints:
• http://www.westsystem.com.au/west_system/
• http://atlcomposites.com.au/category/1/Adhesives
• https://www.spaparts.com.au/ips-weld-on-810-two-part-adhesive-sealant-repair-k (best price in Oz, amazing stuff, can be tinted with pigment powder, eg carbon black)
You won't find these in a standard panel shop, too slow and require practice/skill for good results. Q-Bond is a poor cousin of 810, as it's just a cyanoacrylate ester and quite brittle. Always observe correct proportions when mixing, even if you have to buy lab gear to be accurate.
A 2nd hand bonnet may be the go as the damage was pretty severe..
inside
Wouldn't you be better off getting a 2nd hand bonnet from a wreckers? At least you know it will be straight and have no problems with it.
Angelo at APF Motors has a couple of 916 spiders for wrecking, give him a call and see what price he'd do you one for -0419 721 853.
There is also A1 Auto Parts at Willawong - 3278 8824. I am sure they have a spider or two there.
Bit of polish - that'll buff out! ;D
Seriously though, pretty sure a decent fibreglass repairer could fix that without too much drama. Unless you think you can source an undamaged one for less - I just saw a silver 916 GTV (2003) bonnet on fleabay.com.au for $350 in Victoria.
So maybe worth getting a quote for repair.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALFA-ROMEO-916-GTV-USED-BONNET-HOOD-SILVER-612A-GRILL-BADGE-SPIDER-03-/122458037116?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALFA-ROMEO-916-GTV-USED-BONNET-HOOD-SILVER-612A-GRILL-BADGE-SPIDER-03-/122458037116?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10)
Another hot day in Brisbane and the pace has been a cracker!
Completely forgot Brett was coming to drain the air con on the spider. Fortunately he arrived early as we were locking the door on the way to a wrecker to collect some parts.
He needed 240v to to do the job which takes about 10 minutes. He said venting the gas to atmosphere is equivalent to a tonne of CO2 being produced. Cant have that..
He also recommended replacing the filtery canister thingy. To replace the refrigerant is going to cost $170. My response to any ambit cost is usually holy F! Just to see the response of the quoter. Brett handled this with aplomb.
At the wreckers we didn't haggle on price and put in the back of the hire ute, a bonnet and bumper off a April 1998 V6 Gtv for $400.
The bonnets clear clear coat peeling like a 2 day old sun burn.The bumper is in good nick. Interestingly there is a red stripe in the bumper not seen on the original bumper off the June 1998 2.0L spider.
2nd hand bumper
Quote from: cc on February 01, 2019, 10:21:03 PM
He also recommended replacing the filtery canister thingy.
That would be the Drier, it removes moisture from the system, and yes, on a car of that age it should be replaced.
Quote from: cc on February 01, 2019, 10:21:03 PM
To replace the refrigerant is going to cost $170. My response to any ambit cost is usually holy F! Just to see the response of the quoter. Brett handled this with aplomb.
So you were happy with $170 or not? ???
I gather by the pics you went to A1 at Willowong for the parts?
Well spotted on the location of the donor Gtv. : )
Re the cost of re gassing, don't know if $170 is over the top.
Might ask for a quote out of curiosity on repairing the original bonnet.
Altho if the cost of a re spray is included would it be cheaper than the $200 parts bonnet..
We were v lucky to get the parts we did. As they are colour matched and only 3 months apart on the 1998 production line.
A few more parts to get..
To keep the cost down on the repair and a curiosity with all things Alfa the motor is coming out before it goes to the panel beater.
Have spoken to an alfa mechanic and it wont be a gimme as it is best removed from below. Im wondering how high the front of the car has to be To allow sufficient room, once the motor is on the ground (trolley), to roll it out from underneath.
Has anyone done this before?
Just like Christmas : )
getting ready for a service once the engine is out.
Hi
The spider will be going off to the panelbeaters in the next couple of weeks.
Just had an idle thought.. Can an engine be left without coolant and not have the head gasket be affected.
Should i put some bungs in and fill it while the new radiator isnt on it. Or can an engine be left dry without harm...
cheers
Rinse the empty jacket well and try to get some natural heat in it so that drying can continue. Then it should be fine.
Caveat: Fifteen year old head gasket on unknown car, be willing to accept other outcomes.
The spider has been at the repair shop now for ten days and some pretty good work is being done.
The donor front rail, see pic, has been pulled apart and welded into place after the front passenger chassis rail had been straightened to millimetre positional accuracy. One of the bonnet latch and radiator support brackets has also been taken off the donor part and attached.
Positioning the engine back in place when the car is back may be tricky. So am thinking about the design for a steel cradle to sit the engine in that can then be raised by 3 screws. Like the screw drive on the most cars jacks. One screw per side at the front engine mounts, then another screw to rack it from side to side.
While the engine is out will have an auto sparkie check the alternator and starter motor. There was some oil around the steering rack so the seals in the bellows may be leaking.
If the rack end seals are leaking the gaiters will be swollen with power steering fluid.
It's highly uncommon in a ZF built rack in Australian conditions. More likely the engine is leaking oil onto the rack.
I found out the morning after I bought mine as a daily driver...
Yep you guess it straight up the back of some lady [emoji22][emoji174]
I eventually repaired it all only for it to end up like this... had to have it professionally straightened as it bent the frame
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Sorry to see those pics cas. Why the fire?
Have attached some pics of the spiders at the workshop. The 2nd hand bonnet has been stripped of the old peeling clear coat and paint removed and repainted.The deformed monocoque straightened and painted.The steelwork from the wreckers unpicked welded on and also painted. The broken black plastic wheel arch and under bonnet fittings plastic welded and repaired. The air filter box where holed; repaired. So nearly time to bring it home and put the engine back in. : )
Hi Sportiva
The head gasket, touch wood! is a job to do in a coupe of years time. I said to my girlfriend and part owner in the car we might be able to drive down to Sydney in a month. She laughed : )
Am pretty keen to have it back on the road asap.
Am still conceptualising a steel jig on wheels (or rollers). To roll under the car and then wind into position with a couple of worm gear drives. I want to enjoy putting the engine back in!
With the jig built the R & R of the engine should be a non event.
Quote from: cc on June 01, 2019, 02:19:37 AM
Sorry to see those pics cas. Why the fire?
After I repaired it was driving one afternoon and boom caught fire destroyed
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Fuel leak.. engine explosion! You tell me haha
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190601/4cfcd9be7279ab3aab2f6b47780192c3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190601/173ee0e47f26cba065f61522fa077809.jpg)
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Quote from: cas155 on June 01, 2019, 11:27:32 AM
After I repaired it was driving one afternoon and boom caught fire destroyed
Ok, it begs the question . . . . just what part of the car was it that you repaired? Hmmmm? ;)
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: bazzbazz on June 01, 2019, 06:24:30 PM
Quote from: cas155 on June 01, 2019, 11:27:32 AM
After I repaired it was driving one afternoon and boom caught fire destroyed
Ok, it begs the question . . . . just what part of the car was it that you repaired? Hmmmm? ;)
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Front end was straightened by a panel beater
Front bumper , radiator and air con was repaired by Alfamotive
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Cas, you'll never walk alone...
"Walk of Shame" ? ;)
:"Wall of Flame"
Yep. First thing I did when I bought the alfetta and my second 156; both fitted in easy reach at foot of front passenger seat.
Does carbonfibre burn?
(Enquiring minds need to know)
Yes, but an alibi is always best practice.
back from the workshop
The camshaft cover had a generous dollop of an orange sealant on a corner of the cover. Turns out it was covering the piece of broken off casting that houses the retaining screw on the corner.
Options are to weld it back on or find a 2nd hand one. The last pic shows the opposite corner that is unbroken.