;D Hi all
New to here so hello !
now .... i posted pics here of my new 33 (1.7 twin carb) asked about stuffs to do and someone posted to do the cambelt asap
its booked in to do this in a week no problem but i wanted to ask is there anything extra i should get done while its in bits ... as in those belt tensioner things i read about here or the water pump ???
also - it does have a small fault - annoying tbh - when i unlock the driver door (central locking) almost instantly the thing locks itself again, and it does the reverse on wanting to close/lock it .... and when i have very quickly opened the door to beat the thing locking again .. i stand there with a door open but the locks going up/down/up/down ... it does this probably 80% of the time on the drivers side and does not do it at all on the passengers side ... any clues
apologies for sounding out like a nub here btw
regards all
One thing at a time, the belts and tensioners should be done every 4 years or 60,000klms or whatever comes first, [hear that 147-156 owners and weep!], while you are having the belts done, replace the tensioners as they are there, and its easy to change them as they can over the years with wear and heat, become noisy and lock up, due to the grease drying out, and while fiddling around down there, and its accesable, do the water pump, as you would feel like a dill if it failed one week later, mine failed once in the first week of a new job on the way to work, DOH!, Colin.
Hi Ozant,
re: the door lock problem.
It sounds like one of the locks is not actuating fully. i.e. not fully opening and not fully closing - so the system attempts to lock itself again, then unlock, then ...
It might be the lock on the passenger's door that is sticking, even though it is the driver's door that is behaving strangely.
Is there a lock button on the doors? (I cant remember!) If so, what happens when you operate each lock manually, i.e. while inside the car?
If you lock and unlock one side and it misbehaves, but when locking and unlocking the other side all is well, it is probably the second one that is the problem! By operating it manually you have ensured that it travels through the full path, and therefore it would appear OK.
So it might simply be a sticky lock button or wanting for a bit of lubrication on the push rods inside the door.
Otherwise I'd be looking at the solenoid (electrical lock actuator) in the door, to see if it is moving the lock mechanism (ie the push rod) through the full travel. If not, you might need a new solenoid.
Good luck,
Peter.
I have always found that the master solenoid for the central locking takes about one second to work, so if you open the door with the key, you have hold it in the unlock position or lock position for about one second or else the master relay tries to do the opposite of what you are trying to do, i have found in my experience that the central locking electrical solenoids are quite reliable, [made in Sweden, no less], its usually all the rods and relays that seize up or bend or get out of whack, give them a good clean and lube with silicone spray and see how you go, Colin.
I have a shoe box of these devices - all U/S! Just keeping 'em in case they come in handy one day (!)
And now that I think about it (I have not checked so I'm just going off a faulty and unreliabe memory!) they aren't "solenoids", not on the 1.7 any way. They are small electic motors with a plastic rack and pinion - the problem is the plastic wears and the push rods dont get pushed any more!
But a bit of lubrication on the rod joints might still do the trick for now.
update on the locks
> pulled the door trim off and cleaned/inspected all the bits - all seems ok
> disconected the little bar from the locking motor thingy - drivers door unlocks/locks no probs now - rest of the locks operate off the passenger door .... i can live with that
> pushed the motor rack/pinion thing down 'as though a key just locked it' and it bounced straight back up
> left it disconnected for now
so .... any experience with this at all peoples as in ... faulty or a power/wiring issue further up the line from this one
regards
Ant
I have always found its a rod thats rubbing somewhere or a joint thats gone dry, but sometimes where the wires come thru the plastic ferrule on the door, the constant opening and shutting will cause the wire to break, but thats usually on the most used drivers door, it usually means the drivers door won't lock or unlock, check for continuity between the solenoid and the loom where it snakes out of the door in the drivers kickboard, Colin.
If i remember rightly, the master power relay operates from the passenger door and drivers door, as their roles are reversed for left hand drive, try disconnecting the wires from the solenoid and see if you can push it down and pull it up, without it springing back, and those 'triangled' red locking plastic knobs that are at the top of the door, can seize up and cause problems, pull it apart and clean it and lubricate it with silicone spray, Colin.
Make sure all the EFI hoses are changed , use correct efi hose if it is EFi and correct hose clamps as the cheaper clamps WILL eventually cut into the hoses . Check Fuel pump and replace Fuel filter .
OK sorry its Twin Carb, all the above still applies .
Good point Martin, the fuel supply hoses should be replaced every 10 years or sooner if they get hard and brittle, when 33's were about 10 years old, they started turning up at wreckers with burnt out engine bays, a few years ago at the end of my street, i came accross 2 girls standing next to a 33 with a burnt out engine bay, both crying, cause their car had gone up, went home, checked my hoses, went down to Repco and purchased new hoses for the fuel lines and new clamps, the Alfa clamps are good, but are hard to buy, bought some ALBA brand Swedish clamps, that don't 'bite' into the hose, Colin.
hey there :)
just an update
car goes in tomorrow for the cam belt, water pump and various other small bits and pieces
also washing out the radiator and replacing thermostat and gasket ... HOORAHH
BUT
ive been reading on these forums about the spark plugs and what to use so i bought some B7ES's to replace to replace thisarvo before tomorrows big day ..... thing is i puulled out BPR6ESK's
at the moment i'm in a OMG moment as i dont know which ones are correct now - i suspect the BPR6's are badbadbad tho?? and the difference between them when you compare is sorta MASSIVE
regards
edit: - at supercheap picked up a brand new dizzy cap for $20.90...was right there on the shelf .... thought that was bonus cool !!
If i remember rightly, the NGK BPK6 spark plugs work ok on suburban trips, but tend to foul up in city driving, mine had to be cleaned every month, the BPK7, runs a bit hotter and don't foul as much, and don't burn out, the Supercheap dizzy cap, is it for Magnetti Marelli, and what brand and part no is it?, Colin.
Dizzy is a Bosch GB739
as for the plugs this was part of my guide ... along with various forum replies
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/3726/compareu.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/compareu.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
lots of replies along the lines of ... the B7ES having no resistor and the end not protruding into the cylinder to much causing .... yada yada yada
they are now in the car and i must say its a world of difference .... just seems better
regards
me
hiyas
things done - timing belts, all other belts, water pump, spark plugs, dizzy cap + leads on the way, K&N panel filter on the way, radiator flush and clean, oil filter Z421 + oil change ... opinions on what is next?
something ive noticed is the 'wet look' on both the carbies (see pic) ... any clues as to what this is .... not quite oil or petrol methinks .... reakon i can just degrease it and hose off?
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/8443/25022012079.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/213/25022012079.jpg/)
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thanks all
Mmm looks tasty. Scrape it off the bottom of the pan and put it in a jar labelled 'dripping'. Great on toast on a cold winter day.
Looks like some petrol is weeping there and mixing with dust and grime. I've used carby cleaner as a solvent to get that stuff off, don't know if regular degreaser can do any harm in that area.
Alloy wheel cleaner is quite good, just don't let it dry, and when you clean the carbs up real good, you will be able to see where the petrol leak comes from, and fix it, check the petrol lines, if they are hard and crunchy, fling em and put some new lines on, 8mm or 5/16 inch if i remember rightly, the Ryco oil filter you are talking about Z421, i have never heard of this one before, Ryco were Z84, then they changed it to Z89, as long as it has a 3/4 inch thread and fits, thats the main thing, i have also used Ryco Z63 off Volkswagons and BMW's, they seem to work too, Colin.
I could stand corrected here but here it goes.
The brown stains around the carburettors are residues from the petrol, most likely to be the higher boiling components and additives of petrol and petroleum products. In chemistry terms, polar-like material. That said, there are also grease-like materials, non-polar materials.
You can clean the area with degreaser which is a mixture of hydrocarbon solvents so will remove the grease material. You will probably be left with some brown stains which can be removed with carburettor cleaner which will dissolve and remove the polar material. Carburettor cleaner from when I had a can and read the label, I believe, was made up of mostly acetone and some perfume scent added to make the spray smell nice. Acetone is a common polar organic solvent (nail polish remover) so will remove those brown residues. That said, for a few $, carburettor cleaner is easier to use.
Neil
B.Sc (Hon), Ph.D (Sci), CRC, CTx, Med.Chem, Drug Designer, MRACI, CC, B.Y.Mech, G.Bs
Colin
Alloy wheel cleaner's main constituent is sodium metasilicate, Na2SiO3, which is a mild alkaline substance which in solution will mildly dissolves the grease and grime on components ie wheels and perhaps carburettors.
Compared with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda to the layman) is also alkaline but very corrosive so will react severely with alloys especially aluminum.
What alkaline does is hydrolyses the fatty acids and fatty esters of the brown stains and make them water soluble hence you can then wash off with water.
It is basically soap making.
Just some useless information.
hrm
looks like i had better be careful cleaning that little boxer or i will send the space time continuum spinning ...
thanks Neil btw ... ill now read the back of cans instead of just the cool claims on the front ;p
hehe regards
Still use alloy wheel cleaner to clean stains of heads, gearbox casings, carby's, but first, clean off dirt with truck wash, then clean off any oil with kerosene, then if their are still stains, hit it with some wheel cleaner, but don't let it dry, use a alloy wheel cleaning brush to activate the cleaner and wash off with water, there are good alloy wheel cleaners that have 'good' cleaning chemicals, and there are ones with 'bad' chemicals that are just too harsh and cause corrosion, the ones that are bad mostly got banned a few years ago, because of their links with cancer, the brand name cleaners are mostly good, at work we have a fail proof way of cleaning alloy components without any corrosion problems, its called the apprentice with scotch brite and kero, give it a go at home, it really works, Colin.
A pressie for me arrived for me today .... and what a beautiful note it now plays ... OMG
(http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/1478/05032012088.jpg)
looking at full engine clean up and exhaust options next .... ideas anyone ???
speaking of exhausts .... the two hoses from the exhaust to the airbox either side ... can they be not used to keep things cooler?
regards
The 2 hoses that go into the air cleaner are to do with pollution equipment, i discarded the 2 hoses, as it gave me a bit more room to fit my big fat hands in the engine bay, to make things easier, the 2 pipes in the air cleaner were filled with black silicone, to stop any extra noise and to stop unfiltered air going to the carbys, i have seen corks put in the pipes or plugs off chair legs put in, but that looks like something should be on it that isn't, and you have fiddled with the pollution equipment, and i notice you have airconditioning, is it a going?, or like 90% of all 33's disconnected, cause its too much trouble, Colin.
Quote from: colcol on March 05, 2012, 07:50:40 PM
and i notice you have airconditioning, is it a going?, or like 90% of all 33's disconnected, cause its too much trouble, Colin.
yes ... works fine although a little underwhelming to say the least
also back to those hoses .... you removed them + silicone at one end .... what you do at the exhaust end?
regards
My T.I. exhaust with the 'afterburners' died about 15 years ago, so i fitted a second hand G.C.L. exhaust without the 'afterburners', my 33 aircon works well, it is the Genuine Autoclima unit, not fitted in Australia, it has the 2 radiator condensors under the front bumpers and the aircon air blows out the 5 air vents, not the 3 centre ones, like that were fitted in Australia, works as well or bad as my 156 JTS, Colin.
hiya all
a favour all ...... the thermostat ??? .... anyone provide a part number or a link where to buy
pretty sure its the housing i will need as well ... as its a 'all in one' unit
regards
Ant
You could do what i did about 25 years ago and pay a million dollars for a 'all in one' thermostat and housing from Alfa Romeo, or what i did about a year ago, got a thermostat housing off a Alfasud or early 33, that doesn't have the thermostat built in, and get a thermostat on its own, i jumped on the internet and looked at thermostat specifications and get the one to suit your car, 82c if i remember rightly for 33's, and get the diameter and the overall height, i found the one for my car, and looked at the Repco online site and it was on special for $2, in a clearance sale, can't complain about that, you can also remove the existing thermostat out of your housing, by grinding away the 'stakes' that hold the thermostat in, they put it there in the first place, you should be able to remove it as well, Colin.
new thermostat housing + a couple of clamps and hoses ... not quite the million dollars .... $145 fitted ;D
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8161/14032012091.jpg)
Tell us what temperature the thermostat is, and where it was purchased from, Colin.
the temp is 86c .... as for where its from ... dunno ... next time i pass the mechanic ill drop in and ask - I do know it was brisbane city area
regards