Alfa 911

[GTVeloce]

The intank pump I have installed came out of a 75 TS. It fits exactly where the old fuel gauge sender was. I then installed the TS fuel gauge sender that mounts from on top of the tank sop as to still have a working gauge.

I'm not sure if the GTV6's had an intank pump but I know their tanks were mounted in the boot and therefore took up some boot space compared to the GTV's.

[GTVeloce]

Well it has been quite some time since my last post but, she drives!!! After a bit of fiddling around I have managed to start driving her again, almost exactly two years since I started the project.

So far I am very happy with the suspension set-up. It was one of my main concerns - to have suitable handling characteristics without compromising comfort too much. I will admit the ride quality is diminished slightly (only noticeable on the worst Melbourne roads) but the extra grip and speed through corners far outweighs this. I still have some tuning to do (messing around with different a/r bars and tyre pressures) plus I am still running old Yoko C drives at this stage so it can still get better.

Quite a bit of work went into the electrics and this has paid off. No issues with insufficient power (red battery light...) and head lights are modern car bright (via four relays and beefy wiring). I stole plenty of ideas from shiny car (thanks for inspiration!) albeit my finished product is much more utilitarian as my car is no show car but an everyday driver. Also, the new column switches are brilliant! Makes using the car a dream. Still have a couple of things to fix. The drivers window motor died (have one I bought from Jaycar that I want to try and fit) plus a faint red battery light which I can't work out. Anybody know what could cause this? The only thing that should be attached is the brake fluid level indicator which is working fine (I can press the button and the light come on brightly). Disconnecting this makes no difference so no sure what else it could be. I don't believe the car had brake pad indicators so a little confused.

However, the biggest issue at the moment is the engine. It keeps wanting to stall. It starts fine and idles away. It struggles a little when cold but once a little warm the engine is fantastic! Really quick and responsive. But, as it gets up to temperature, it keeps wanting to stall when returning to idle. If it gets to idle it is fine, it will hold it without a problem. I have experimented with the fuel quality plug and that doesn't seem to make a difference long term. Basically the engine is stock except for the exhaust which is bigger than standard after the headers, very free flowing (loud!) and no cat but it does have an O2 sensor. Also, at the moment it is running a pod filter. I was very careful and have re=checked there are no air leaks (lots of new rubbers) so a bit unsure where to next. Any thoughts?

I have to take more photos but here is one to get going with.

[Duk]

However, the biggest issue at the moment is the engine. It keeps wanting to stall. It starts fine and idles away. It struggles a little when cold but once a little warm the engine is fantastic! Really quick and responsive. But, as it gets up to temperature, it keeps wanting to stall when returning to idle. If it gets to idle it is fine, it will hold it without a problem. I have experimented with the fuel quality plug and that doesn't seem to make a difference long term. Basically the engine is stock except for the exhaust which is bigger than standard after the headers, very free flowing (loud!) and no cat but it does have an O2 sensor. Also, at the moment it is running a pod filter. I was very careful and have re=checked there are no air leaks (lots of new rubbers) so a bit unsure where to next. Any thoughts?

I have to take more photos but here is one to get going with.

Ideally you'd do a fault code check to see if the ECU is logging any faults.
Definitely check the throttle position switch and make sure it is closing the idle contact when the throttle is closed.
Definitely check the coolant temperature sensor and its wiring.
My understanding of the Motronic is that it uses ignition timing to control idle speed, but it might be worth while to make sure the auxiliary air passages are clean and that the auxiliary air valve works properly work properly.
Last but not least, try and adjust the idle stop or air bypass valve (I don't know how the TS TB is designed) so that the engine idles a bit higher. The ECU should still try and get the idle speed down if the throttle switch is closed.

If you haven't downloaded them already, http://david.alfa-romeo.eu/alfa/75/ is the place that you can still get the 75 Manual from.

[GTVeloce]

Well, it has been a little while since I posted on this thread but I've been away so nothing happened for six months.

The car was running ok except for a few little problems, all of which have been fixed with one solution! I always wanted to install the original charcoal cannister and solenoid as the TS was designed to have. However, I couldn't find either. Rummaging around Milano's the other day looking for one I found a later model one (156 I think) that had the two parts mounted together. Closer inspection showed the same electrical connections and entry/exit ports so I thought I would try it. As an added bonus this one weighs a fraction of the 75 one so I'm guessing this one isn't filled with charcoal a la the 75. Anyone know what is in it? Certainly worth a look at swapping to one of these if you are considering moving it because of the weight at the nose of the car.

Anyway, I pulled the cover from in front of the drivers side wheel, removed the horn and mounted it up there behind the headlights using a bracket I made and fixing it to the horn mount.

Hallelujah! It has fixed the stalling issue; improved initial take off; leaned out the mixture (it was way too rich before); it idles smooth now (girlfriend recently referred to being in a milkshake...); most of the nasty fume smell I was getting with window down is gone and I'm being better for the environment  Oh, and as an added benefit it has improved gear changes. I know that seems odd but I have certainly noticed an improvement and the same thing would happen with the 75. If the engine wasn't quite right it was always harder to change gears.

[festy]

Sounds like your ECU might have been running in Limp Home mode because of the 'failed' purge solenoid.