Yeah, the bloody bump steer issue is a pearler. Having said that, this cars is not as low as the previous one and needs its own geometry. So after all the high tech discussions we had and as much as I hate welding those uprights,( a guy in Finland broke one recently) I decided to go low tech and just heat the sheit out of the steering arm and bend it to suit. Crappy job but it works. Has to be on the aligner to do it though.
After that thread, I actually bought some Spyder uprights from the U.S., with the idea that I would go the upside down lower BJ (what with talk that the actual stub axle is lower on the 105 uprights, so giving a bit more lower control arm clearance with the rim, but better geometry for the suspension), but also because they use the separate steering arm. My idea was to make arms that had bump steer correction but were also a lot shorter than standard, to speed up the steering (I planned on adding stops inside the steering rack to make sure I didn't end up with stupid amounts of steering angle).
Trouble was, the Spyder uprights I bought have different caliper mounting points compared to the 75 (apparently some 105's have the same mounting points as the 75's). Given the coin I spent doing my Volvo 4 piston caliper (yes, they are heavy) and slotted 164 rotor with decent pads set up (just over $1k, believe it or not), I couldn't justify going through with it.
It would be awesome to have faster steering in the Alfa, though
Knowing what I know now, I'd just use Nissan or Mazda Sumitomo 4 piston calipers and the Spyder uprights, but there would be to much coin down the drain to start again (I hate the idea of separating those bedded in pads from their respective rotors).