loosening head nuts

Started by kartone, February 27, 2019, 05:35:21 PM

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kartone

what is the procedure to remove "stuck" head nuts?
removed the first nut with no issues, the second nut the stud snapped at the base where it screws into the block.
to ensure the nut loosens should it be tapped with a hammer, used WD40 and or heat!


82 GTV6 split-dash
80 Alfetta GTV

bonno


kartone

thanks Bonno, I did a search but not has successful! thanks again.
82 GTV6 split-dash
80 Alfetta GTV

Craig_m67

#3
Quote from: kartone on February 27, 2019, 05:35:21 PM
what is the procedure to remove "stuck" head nuts?
removed the first nut with no issues, the second nut the stud snapped at the base where it screws into the block.
to ensure the nut loosens should it be tapped with a hammer, used WD40 and or heat!

The stud snapped?
(I think your block is now economic dry white burnt toast .. find another)


Swapping stud stories (snigger) on the AlfaBB *always* ends up in tears, sorry 😐


Start here... https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1963-1977/257802-broke-head-stud-ouch.html
'66 Duetto (lacework of doom)
'73 1600 GT Junior (ensconced)
'03 156 1.9JTD Sportwagon (daily driver)

Citroënbender

Noting especially, the post from "hotlegs32"...  ;)

To shock the upper nut threads loose, I'd probably use a small flat punch on the "land" of the nut, four blows at 90° divisions.  Best amateur penetrant is a mix of acetone and ATF, well tested on the 'net.

bonno

#5
Hi Kartone
Before going to drastic measures, try the easy out method. This involves spraying the broken stud with WD40 or good quality penetrant and leave for at least 24 hours for it to do its magic, after which you drill a suitable size hole in the broken stud and then using an easy out to remove the broken stud.
Good Luck
Bonno

Citroënbender

Further to Bonno's comments, drill bushings, small pieces of ground steel plate and left handed drill bits are now much easier to buy than before internet sales took off. It's worth the time to make a bushing plate that can be carefully aligned, bolted down through nearby fixing points and then used to guide a drill. If the studs are 11mm thread, a 5/16" or 8mm drill and bushing might be the go.

Considering the torque applied that snapped the stud, an easy out which is too small, will invariably fail and result in a messier situation.

NSharpley

I once had a cyclinder head that wouldn't come off.

PO hadnt used coolant / anti corrosion so the head was kind of fused to the block.

It was a total bastard!  TOTAL.    It took 6 hours after the nuts were off to actually remove the cylinder head.

I go overboard with anti-corrosion.

Current Alfa:
1975 Alfetta GT 2.0 Race car
1979 Alfetta GTV (Resto)
1972 105 2000 GTV (Resto)
1987 Alfa 75 2.5

Past Alfas:
1982 Alfetta Sportiva (briefly in my possession. Restored and sold)
1989 Alfa 75 2.5
1982 Alfetta Sedan 2.0
1976 Alfetta GT