Author Topic: Project 164 - lets see how this goes  (Read 770 times)

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shane wescott

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Re: Project 164 - lets see how this goes
« Reply #30 on: September 13, 2017, 12:38:15 PM »
Im convinced - it comes out

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Current Cars:

1991 White 164

Previous Cars:
86 White GTV6 Zender Body Kit
90 Red 75 TS
98 Blue GTV 2.0
85 Red 33 1.5 TI
85 Red 33 1.7 Carby
83 Silver 33 1.5 GCL
70 Blue Berlina 1750
70 White Berlina 1750

70 White Berlina 1750 (my first)

Current Bikes:

2002 Yellow Ducati ST2 944

shane wescott

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Re: Project 164 - lets see how this goes
« Reply #31 on: September 13, 2017, 02:20:47 PM »
Thanks CitroenBender.

Im not sure yet which one it is. It's a very early car so probably the most difficult one :-(

Can anyone confirm if it is possible to remote the rack and P/S system without pulling off the steering wheel and removing all the steering column crap in the cabin?

I am hoping this is possible :-)
Current Cars:

1991 White 164

Previous Cars:
86 White GTV6 Zender Body Kit
90 Red 75 TS
98 Blue GTV 2.0
85 Red 33 1.5 TI
85 Red 33 1.7 Carby
83 Silver 33 1.5 GCL
70 Blue Berlina 1750
70 White Berlina 1750

70 White Berlina 1750 (my first)

Current Bikes:

2002 Yellow Ducati ST2 944

CitroŽnbender

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Re: Project 164 - lets see how this goes
« Reply #32 on: September 13, 2017, 03:16:23 PM »
Many cars have a uni under the dash just near the pedals, remove the clamp bolt fully after marking joint/shaft for realignment, and the uni will slide back up, freeing the stubby shaft at its top. Leave the steering column locked and the steering wheel on.

Depending on the car there's usually either a flector disc or pinch clamp securing the stubby shaft to the rack. Note alignment of this before removal, also. As you have uncoupled the short shaft at both ends, now draw it up far as you can into the driver's footwell and keep it up there with something like a large bulldog clip, rubber band wrapping or a pair of vise-grips.

I shouldn't have to say it but I will; only use flare or crowsfoot spanners on the pinion input line flare nuts.

shane wescott

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Re: Project 164 - lets see how this goes
« Reply #33 on: September 14, 2017, 08:05:27 AM »
Many cars have a uni under the dash just near the pedals, remove the clamp bolt fully after marking joint/shaft for realignment, and the uni will slide back up, freeing the stubby shaft at its top. Leave the steering column locked and the steering wheel on.

Depending on the car there's usually either a flector disc or pinch clamp securing the stubby shaft to the rack. Note alignment of this before removal, also. As you have uncoupled the short shaft at both ends, now draw it up far as you can into the driver's footwell and keep it up there with something like a large bulldog clip, rubber band wrapping or a pair of vise-grips.

I shouldn't have to say it but I will; only use flare or crowsfoot spanners on the pinion input line flare nuts.
Thanks for the advice

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Current Cars:

1991 White 164

Previous Cars:
86 White GTV6 Zender Body Kit
90 Red 75 TS
98 Blue GTV 2.0
85 Red 33 1.5 TI
85 Red 33 1.7 Carby
83 Silver 33 1.5 GCL
70 Blue Berlina 1750
70 White Berlina 1750

70 White Berlina 1750 (my first)

Current Bikes:

2002 Yellow Ducati ST2 944

four90s

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Re: Project 164 - lets see how this goes
« Reply #34 on: September 14, 2017, 01:40:51 PM »
Hi Shane,

I've pulled the PS out of a 164 a couple of times (and a couple of times on the same car) and it is a complete pita.

Things to look out for:

There is a heat shield attached to the top of one of the left hand side mounting bolts which is secured with (I think) an 8mm nut. There is a threaded post on the top of the bolt and you need to get that off before loosening the mounting bolt.

Access is from the top and is tight and hard to see. Good luck.

To get the rack out I usually drop the rear of the front subframe. There are four big long bolts each side, two front and two rear.
Have the car up on jack stands under the jacking points behind the front wheels.
Support the subframe with your trolley jack and a wood block. Loosen the front bolts and remove the rear ones and lower the subframe.
This makes it (much/a little/somewhat) easier to remove the rack.

Inside the cabin, remove the left foot rest and the side of the centre console. Easier with the driver's seat all the way back. Lift the carpet back from where the column goes through the floor.

Drop the column cover and loosen off the height/reach adjuster. There is a big nut that needs to be loosened to allow the bottom half of the column to be slid back up to get the universal off the rack.

There is a plastic cover around the column on the floor held in with (I think) 6mm nuts. Undo and remove. (I can hear you cursing and swearing now).
I seem to remember there is some sound deadening material or something like that under there and another plastic collar as well.
Once that is out there is a metal plate held in with extensions of the studs you just took the 6mm nuts off. You need a long socket to get these out.

Remove all that and you should have access to the pinch bolt in the universal. The universal is splined, but only goes on one way (there are a couple of splines missing with a matching section on the universal).
The pinch bolt has to come all the way out as there is a cut out on the shaft for it to go through.

Nearly there now. Lift the universal off the spline on the rack and lay to one side. This may take some wriggling of the loosened column.

Once off, go back under the wheel arch and with all mounting bolts, lines and ball joints removed you should be able to wriggle the rack out.

I can't remember if it only goes out one side (like Alfettas) or not.

Once it's on the bench the rebuild is reasonably straight forward, but the seals are a problem to find and the big problem is any foreign material inside the boots will score the rack and give it a permanent leak.

I ended up combining the best bits and pieces from three racks to get a working one.

Oh, one other thing. Some of the later cars had an external damper fitted parallel to the rack purely as a vibration reducer. They had nothing to do with the assistance and can be deleted if you end up doing a mix and match.

Good luck and feel free to PM me with any specific questions. It is a while since I did anything with 164 PS but I'll try.

Regards
Steve
Adelaide.





Four90s
Too many others to list
(29 Alfas and some other things since 1979)

shane wescott

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Re: Project 164 - lets see how this goes
« Reply #35 on: September 15, 2017, 09:11:51 PM »
Hi Shane,

I've pulled the PS out of a 164 a couple of times (and a couple of times on the same car) and it is a complete pita.

Things to look out for:

There is a heat shield attached to the top of one of the left hand side mounting bolts which is secured with (I think) an 8mm nut. There is a threaded post on the top of the bolt and you need to get that off before loosening the mounting bolt.

Access is from the top and is tight and hard to see. Good luck.

To get the rack out I usually drop the rear of the front subframe. There are four big long bolts each side, two front and two rear.
Have the car up on jack stands under the jacking points behind the front wheels.
Support the subframe with your trolley jack and a wood block. Loosen the front bolts and remove the rear ones and lower the subframe.
This makes it (much/a little/somewhat) easier to remove the rack.

Inside the cabin, remove the left foot rest and the side of the centre console. Easier with the driver's seat all the way back. Lift the carpet back from where the column goes through the floor.

Drop the column cover and loosen off the height/reach adjuster. There is a big nut that needs to be loosened to allow the bottom half of the column to be slid back up to get the universal off the rack.

There is a plastic cover around the column on the floor held in with (I think) 6mm nuts. Undo and remove. (I can hear you cursing and swearing now).
I seem to remember there is some sound deadening material or something like that under there and another plastic collar as well.
Once that is out there is a metal plate held in with extensions of the studs you just took the 6mm nuts off. You need a long socket to get these out.

Remove all that and you should have access to the pinch bolt in the universal. The universal is splined, but only goes on one way (there are a couple of splines missing with a matching section on the universal).
The pinch bolt has to come all the way out as there is a cut out on the shaft for it to go through.

Nearly there now. Lift the universal off the spline on the rack and lay to one side. This may take some wriggling of the loosened column.

Once off, go back under the wheel arch and with all mounting bolts, lines and ball joints removed you should be able to wriggle the rack out.

I can't remember if it only goes out one side (like Alfettas) or not.

Once it's on the bench the rebuild is reasonably straight forward, but the seals are a problem to find and the big problem is any foreign material inside the boots will score the rack and give it a permanent leak.

I ended up combining the best bits and pieces from three racks to get a working one.

Oh, one other thing. Some of the later cars had an external damper fitted parallel to the rack purely as a vibration reducer. They had nothing to do with the assistance and can be deleted if you end up doing a mix and match.

Good luck and feel free to PM me with any specific questions. It is a while since I did anything with 164 PS but I'll try.

Regards
Steve
Adelaide.
Really appreciate the walk through Steve.

Some great tips team

I have time so i can tackle it one step at a time.

Big thank you guys.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Current Cars:

1991 White 164

Previous Cars:
86 White GTV6 Zender Body Kit
90 Red 75 TS
98 Blue GTV 2.0
85 Red 33 1.5 TI
85 Red 33 1.7 Carby
83 Silver 33 1.5 GCL
70 Blue Berlina 1750
70 White Berlina 1750

70 White Berlina 1750 (my first)

Current Bikes:

2002 Yellow Ducati ST2 944