Fuel filter spider

[The Count]

Our 1999 Spider T Spark 2.0 manual has just come back from work on a gearbox oil leak but since we brought it home there's been a problem. When it starts, it idles as usual but, as soon as you touch the accelerator,  sputters, loses revs and often just stops. Trying to pump the accelerator results in more sputtering and a sort of clunking in the engine bay occasionally. It improves when the engine is warmed up but still loses power and will not hold revs on a throttle setting.
When we collected it, the fuel light was on so am wondering if it might be the fuel filter. If so, is it a simple matter to replace it?
The other possibility is that the mechanic did not reconnect some vital part but I have no idea where to start looking.
Any ideas?

[poohbah]

Regardless of whether the fuel filter is the problem, I'd recommend taking it straight back to the mechanic who "fixed" it, ask him why it runs worse than when he fiddled with it and then request that he get it right this time ... gratis.

[johnl]

Shooting in the dark, do you know if the battery was disconnected for any length of time? If so, then maybe it needs to be run through the ECU 'reset' procedure(?). Apparently, I've read, if the battery has been disconnected for a period of time, then reconnected without 'resetting' the ECU, then the throttle may not work correctly, which might cause erratic poor idle and general throttle misbehaviour.

According to what I've read; reset is done by disconnecting the battery for at least 45 minutes, then reconnecting, then turning the key to 'ignition' (or whatever it is in Italian) for 90 seconds, then turning it to 'off' for another 90 seconds (leaving the key in the barrel), then staring the engine and letting it idle for 15 minutes. At no time should the accelerator pedal be touched.

I don't know if this is what is needed, but maybe worth a try.

Regards,
John.

[The Count]

OK...
Thanks to you both.
Have returned the spider to mechanic asking what has happened and please explain etc.
Also tried ECU reset but without much success. Engine is more responsive when warm but still lacks power and, uphill under load will reach a peak speed and go no faster no matter how much right pedal I apply.
Will await report from mechanic and post result.
Nick

[bazzbazz]

By any chance does it refuse to go over 3000 rpm ?

If it does, then I suspect your mech has not done up a hose clamp somewhere.

As for the ECU reset, John is quite correct in its effect on performance, but it will not effect the idle at all.

Hang on, wait a minute, Light bulb moment! Gearbox work eh, bet you dollars to donuts some genius hasn't attached
the gearbox main earth lead or tightened it up properly! 

Baz

[johnl]

I'm not sure, but it might be that the 'reset' needs to be done with the engine starting from cold (?). The ECU needs to 're-learn' its' idle settings, and this would I think include what is needed from cold to operating temperature. After 15 minutes of idling the temperature gauge does go from cold to half way on the dial.

I recently did a cold start reset on my car, not because it wouldn't idle well but because the engine felt a bit 'doughy' and less responsive than I thought it ought to be. Results were good, noticeably better, especially throttle response when 'heel / toeing' for downshifts.

Regards,
John.

[The Count]

Thanks again to both.

Have mentioned gearbox earth to mechanic.

John, my ECU reset was done from cold and the idle was not really the issue, it's when you try to use the accelerator that the problem occurs.

Still awaiting developments......

Nick

[johnl]

Nick,
I just thought the reset might be worth trying, I wasn't sure if it was your problem or not.

More shots in the dark; When you rev it does it blow any black smoke? Have you checked the spark plug colour? Is it running rich or lean? Fuel pressure very low??

Other than for the idling being OK, I'd be suspecting an air leak as a possible culprit. It might be interesting to detach the air inlet tube from the throttle body and observe what the butterfly is doing at idle and when you try to give it some revs. I'm thinking maybe an issue with the potentiometer at the pedal, or an issue with the throttle body not opening the butterfly as it should, but really I'm just having a few wild guesses.

Could the MAF sensor being playing up? What happens if you electrically disconnect the MAF? If the MAF sensor is giving bad information to the ECU () then the engine may well behave more normally if it's not connected. Another wild guess.

Regards,
John.

[Mick A]

I'll pretty much guarantee it's a faulty Airflow Meter. Replace it and all will be well.

[bazzbazz]

Y'know Mick has equal chance at being correct, and yes, I know you'll all say "But it was working before the mech worked on it!"

Mick, you wanna tell em, how many times you've been working on a car an a totally unrelated part has gone "wheels up" during the work? I'm just getting my calculator out to work out the number of times it's happened to me . . . . .

Baz

[four90s]

+1 on the air flow meter.

To test if it's the afm, just disconnect the plug on it.

If that's the problem, it'll run sweet straight away.

Steve
Adelaide

[johnl]

+1 on the air flow meter.

To test if it's the afm, just disconnect the plug on it.

If that's the problem, it'll run sweet straight away.

Steve
Adelaide

Hey, I said that first, and need constant affirmation...

Regards,
John.

[bazzbazz]

C'mon count . . .SITREP!  We've got sheep stations riding on who is the best swami on this one!!



Baz

[The Count]

Sheep stations!!!! OMG!!!!
Sitrep as of 1700 today.
Mechanic says OBD detects no issues... Also says cannot find fuel filter to check (my spider could have in-tank filter as its a 1999 Millennium).
He is suggesting we got dirty fuel. I am v sceptical. Going in tomorrow to personally disconnect MAF electrics with everyone present. If MAF at fault, will take car home and buy and fit replacement MAF myself rather than spend dollars on an endless merry go round.
Nick

[poohbah]

Sorry to hear you still haven't got to the bottom of it Nick.

One other general question: is your mechanic an Alfa specialist? If he says he can't find the fuel filter (and especially if it's because your car may have an in-tank one!) it would seem to be the case that he isn't.