V6 engine removal and alternator removal

[cc]

Well the alternator performed fine on the test bench..... Was tested up to 90 amps (rated to 120A)as thats as high as the test bench would go.
Altho the auto sparkie said the spring pressure on the brushes felt low. Im picking it up tomorrow with a new regulator and a skim done on the slip ring. A clean up too as it was a bit oily. Probably  from the leaking low pressure power steering pipe under the radiator.
The pulley wheel looked polished to the auto sparkie too... He also advised power steering fluid can be abrasive.. perhaps in conjunction with grime under the bonnet. The alternator, the Auto S. said when supplying max amps can put 4-5 Horsepower load on the serpentine belt. As a result in my example, perhaps the serp. belt was slipping......
So am replacing the serp belt from Dayco and a timing belt from federal mogul from an Aus based alfa parts supplier.
Has anyone used a federal mogul belt. Theyre unknown to me, can someone recommend?
cheers CC

[Craig_m67]

I've only ever seen Gates or dayco recommended.  I'm sure Bursons can get you're either.

[cc]

ok. It took about 6 hours! but the the lower wishbones, the roll bar and the steering rack and sub frame are bolted in! yay! I followed the order of replacing per elearn
A caveat, whats written below is not foolproof or even perhaps correct! If you are going to have a go at the same work. Its at your own risk. : )
1. put the subframe on props and bolt on the suspension lower wishbones.I also had the drivers side drive shaft unbolted at the inside join and the aluminium yoke that joins the strut to the wishbone removed.
have the roll bar sitting on the subframe.
When bolting on the w/bones to the s/frame the rear 2 bolts screw into Aluminum castings, which would be diabolical if cross threaded. ....
3 bolts went in ok, but the 3rd and longest into an Al. casting at the rear  wouldnt start....... dicey! The cure is to start the bolt from the top, see pic, run it thru which aligns the Al casting to the s/frame and cleans the thread.
Take it out and it runs in sweetly from below, see 2nd pic.

using 2 jacks and props, offer up the s/frame to the 6 bolt hole positions on the trailing edge of the subframe and the 2 long fingers that attach the s/frame to the front chassis rails. This is the tricky bit as there is a lot of conflicting forces and attachments that dont allow the holes to line up perfectly...I tried to do it without having the wishbones on the subframe..... dont do it

get the rear 6 bolts in loosely make sure the roll bar is seated properly. Jack up the front of the s/frame and the front finger bolts will come into alignment and screw in.
Before you get too excited with success! align the steering rack onto/with the 2 hole in the s/frame. A car mirror  and a torch is used here... Its not hard just some moderate nudging north and south and east and west. Once aligned by looking into the hole with the mirror it will only show the threaded recess in the  rack. If your seeing a shiny crescent of Al casting its off line. Dont try and align it by running the bolt in as it risks x threading. When aligned ok they screw in without an issue. If theyre not starting dont force it....

Whilst standing back and hesitating before starting the job, it is a bit like open heart surgery for the first time. During, with difficulties popping up, the end was an unknown time away. Once done. Its easy when you know how : ) should take 1/2 the time next time.

Still to do.Attach remaining suspension & torque up everything.
Oh yeah the rear engine mount with the buggered thread still to, do attach exhaust.....
Hopefully the test engine run with the overhauled alternator will have the engine 1. starting! 2. giving full power!3. Not going ape when the twin radiator fans are on and the alternator is loaded up to max. load. Still need to find the coolant leak and sort out low compression in 2 cylinders..

[cc]

well, all back together with the overhauled alternator and still doesnt want to start. Which was the original issue... There had been a coolant leak on the timing belt side of the engine and im wondering if a sensor somewhere has died due to coolant getting into it.
Also an overheating issue when the radiator fans came on ie wouldnt stay cool at low speeds.
Ive bought the multiecuscan software but as yet dont have the interface.
Can someone recommend an interface and supplier to go with multiecuscan please.
The injector light is on in the dash so a read of trouble codes sounds in order.

[psproule]

I use one of the cables below and a licensed copy of MultiECUScan. The switchable OBD cables allow you to access the different ecu's such as Selespeed, ABS, Climate, headlights etc.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FIAT-ECU-SCAN-FIAT-ALFA-VAG-COM-USB-ODB2-DIAGNOSTIC-LEAD-SWITCH-/322419774828?hash=item4b11b7556c:g:q~MAAOSwOgdYnjlG

[cc]

cheers Pat, so far the wifi clone i bought, not communicating with ecumultiscan (licensed)..