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932 Series (156, GTV, Spider, 147, GT, and 166) / Re: DIY rear ARB...
« Last post by johnl on Today at 02:41:04 PM »
Just in case anyone is actually interested in this (maybe not judging by responses...), I did make the 'hat straps' for the top of the front suspension towers, and they are good, adding to the improvement created by the 'hats'.

Each of these 'straps' is made from a 55x25x6 steel plate, with a 25x3 'tongue' welded to each end (55mm to cover the diameter of the 'hats'). The 'tongues' are bent downward (next to the welds) and each tongue end bent so they become horizontal (parallel to the tower top) and drilled with 10mm holes so they can be held in place by two of the tower nuts (the two outermost ones). The thicker part of the straps (the 6mm plates) sit on top of the 'hats' I had previously made, with a thin bit of rubber (cut from a bicycle inner tube) sandwiched between. The 'hats' are directly attached to the damper rod (by the rod nut), and more or less eliminate rebound motion (of the damper rod in the soft stock rubber mount). The 'straps' are directly attached to the tower top, and largely eliminate compression of the mount rubber in 'bump'. I'd post some pics if were a digital native...

I was concerned that this all might excessively stiffen the manner in which the damper rod is mounted, specifically the lateral angularity of the rod as the suspension moves. Anyway, disconnecting the 'strut' at the bottom, I could still easily move the strut body in and out (laterally), changing its' angle at the strut mount with no significant resistance. I could see the 'hat' laterally move under the strap by about 1mm as I substantially moved the strut body in and out, there is some 'give' between the top of the 'hat' and the underside of the strap that permits the parts to move relative to each other without causing any partial 'bind', so I'm confident there will be no issues with this.

The damper rod now cannot significantly deflect the rubber bush in either bump or rebound (as it normally does), pretty much the entirety of the dampers' action is immediately 'felt' between the wheel and the chassis, instead of some of the initial damping action being 'lost' due to elastic deformation of the elastomer spring that attaches the the damper rod to the chassis (i.e. the damper rod mount at the top of the 'strut'). This 'lost' damping action normally causes the damping action to be at best somewhat non linear, with the action initially being very weak, then abruptly increasing after maybe a cm or so of suspension motion (either in bump or rebound). IMO any non linearity in the damper action is not likely to be a 'good thing', contributing to poor roll motion control and suspension motion control, etc.

The overall result (of both the 'hats' and the 'straps') is that the steering response and 'positivity' has been improved, body roll is initially less (at turn in and early corner), the car is more stable in corners. This improved corner stability is both directional and 'vertical', with the car not as readily 'wobbling' on the diagonal axis. Small irregularities in the road surface can now be more readily felt both through the steering and the chassis, so there is at least some price to pay with regard to harshness, but it's not a big price. There is noticeably less 'floatiness' with larger bumps / undulations in the road (which will I think be also be related to the improved corner stability, i.e. on the 'diagonal axis').

However, the stock front dampers (fairly new TRW units) are still (IMO) somewhat too soft, so not all front 'damper judder' has been eliminated. It's a lot better, but corrugations on dirt roads can still cause 'judder' depending on the size and  'frequency' of the corrugations. Having said that, the judder when it occurs is less, and occurs less often. I'd still like to get stiffer front dampers, not necessarily stiffer with 'slow' inputs (as you get with body roll and undulations etc) but stiffer with 'fast' inputs (as you get with 'sharp' bumps etc). Not sure if B4 Bilsteins (twin tube 'stock replacement') would be what I need, or if I'd have to spend substantially more on the B6 'sports' mono-tubes...

Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / Re: FS - Dion spherical bearings
« Last post by jazig.k on Today at 10:30:10 AM »
Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / Re: FS - Dion spherical bearings
« Last post by jazig.k on Today at 09:34:32 AM »
Got around to buying more bearings to finish up the last of what I had sitting in the cupboard.

I have 4 more assembled, packed and ready to go.

Would love to hear feedback from the guys who have fitted them too. I know a few sets are out there now.
I have a copy of that catalogue too, uploaded some scans to AlfaBB a few years ago. Always thought the kids seat looked quite cool but possibly wouldn't comply with today's safety standards. There is also a set of wheels in that catalogue that I've never seen on any real (or photographed) 164 (the star shaped ones) - wondering if they ever actually sold that style??
I actually have 2 of these that I bought of a guy who got them from David in Sunshine Vic, many years ago, i was seeing if anyone on this forum knows who this David guy is as i want to talk to him regarding these.


932 Series (156, GTV, Spider, 147, GT, and 166) / Clutch slave cylinder swap?
« Last post by josh18 on August 25, 2016, 10:03:58 PM »
Hey all. After a good run with our new 156 JTS it seems the honeymoon is over.
The clutch went spongey today and the car refused to go into gear. After a few pumps of the clutch it came back and seemed ok for a while but before we got home it was at it again. No amount of pumping would help when i was just about home, so I reached down and pulled the pedal back up and it worked again.
So there is definitely air in the system I think, no fluid seems to have been lost.
At first I was thinking master cylinder but after doing a web research fest it seems more likely to be the slave.
This weekend I plan to bleed it and see how it goes but I can't imagine it lasting too long.
So what do you guys reckon- slave, master or something else?

Ive looked up what it takes to change it and it seems like quite a huge task to remove the box but if it's gotta be done it's gotta be done.

Cheers, any advice, hints, tips much appreciated.
Without going to toolbox and checking, 36mm.  Correct or crucify me at will.
What is the size of the nut the holds the crankshaft pulley on? I need to buy a socket to replace the front main seal.
Buy/Swap/Sell [Announce ONLY] / 1983 Alfasud Sprint race car for sale
« Last post by hammer on August 25, 2016, 07:35:04 PM »
Warm 1.7 litre quad cam, fuel injected engine with less than 100km track time since full rebuild. Adjustable coil-over suspension, outboard four-wheel disc brakes, Yokohama AO50 tyres. Body stripped and painted 2 years ago, with 12-point CAMS spec cage (attached to shock towers front and rear). Perspex windows and hatch, new Cobra seat, 6-pt harness. 800kg with still more weight reduction possible. Spares package includes poly carbonate windscreen, wheels, bonnet and more. Perfect car to get started in club sprints, hill climbs or racing. Fast, safe, reliable and so easy to drive. $9000. Phone Brent: 0418 215 259.
160 Series (90, 75, 164 Sedans) / 164 Factory Accessories Catalogue
« Last post by V AR 164 on August 25, 2016, 04:37:09 PM »
Hey guys,

Found this on the AlfaBB forum a while back and thought some of you may be interested. It is an accessory catalogue for the car with optional extras that could be purchased. Seems my car has the original optional floor mats! ;D

All credit goes to 164TSpark on the AlfaBB forum.

Cheers, Andrew.
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