Hi there all-
I'm from Sydney, been around transaxles about 12 years now- my first car being a clean 1985 GTV
With a Serpent GP kit, 16x7.5 Dtm mesh rims (bbs copies)- purchased straight out of school.
This is still the only Alfa I've owned- i love it :)
Initial work included upgrading to 75 front brakes, a 75 3.0 transaxle (bought a ts one but the crownwheel was pitted with rust- so i swapped it) and locked up diff, custom clutch, 105 castor
Rods, bilsteins and springs. All work done by Fab at Autosprint.
Then the search for more lead to the idea of a TS turbo. It turned out to be too expensive, so I abandoned the idea, around the same time Fab offered up his 2.5.
This was in his Alfetta sedan. His dad was the chief mechanic to Colin bond and Alan jones in 85, and was given access to a whole bunch of stuff when Alfa left Australia in 92-
So they made the call to build a replica of the GpA 2.5-
Specs:
Ex Bond Luigi racing cams
11.3:1 venolia forgies
S/s oversize valves and double springs
Ported and flowed heads
Ported runners
Shot peened / lightened rods all balanced to crank
Lightened flywheels
Running on modded dizzy with ancient fuel only haltech f-7 I think.
Made 185 rwhp at 7800
Ran it with a serck 16 row oil cooler, swapped the diff to ex bond 4.3:1
Drove it for about 6 years like that. Did 5 trackdays.
Included study in coffs harbour- back and forth from Sydney about 20 times, I always took the long way :)
In 2008, I moved back to coffs or further study and must've got a bad batch of fuel.
I was in the top of third, about 7500 when it pinged. I backed off, but the damage was done- a week later, I blew a head gasket.
It was too hard to get it fixed there- no one knew their way around one, so I went with Andrews transport to send it back to sydney, because they apparently offered transit insurance.
Two weeks later, no car.
I called them, and found out that it had fallen off the truck, rolling into another, while being moved from one to another.
A year and 3 consumer claims tribunal hearings later, no damages were awarded.
Fast forward to last year, and I needed to make a call on a new car.
15k doesn't get you a fun, different rwd car- maybe an old clio sport?
So I hatched the idea of what someone on gtv6.com would label a type R style car:
If I was going to do it, I had to live with it for at least 4 years.
It had to be liveable, meaning full interior.
But I wanted it to be reasonably light.
Ride height adjustable, great handling for trackdays- I have a great work-life balance, so I've got the time off to do at least a few per year.
Big brakes.
More torque and power.
Had to look Hot ;D
I'll post some more, including pics, tonight.
So here are some pics of how it looked, with the carbon fibre skin bonnet that was held on by sparco pins (don't get these- they're really soft alloy and suck IMO!). And the damage. And the inspiration for the completed project.
The solution to the must haves above were:
I acquired:
* A repair rear section, so that the beaver could be removed and stitched in.
* 5 bolt hubs, because I want some 5x100 wheels- part of the trackday car solution is to have a spare set of wheels with semi slicks on them, this won't be my only car (I have a shitbox wagon for "wagon" duties :) ), but I will want to drive it on road trips and sunday drives, as well.
* GTA brembos (anyone with disc recommendations, please tell me- looking at getting some GTA discs- they're 5x98, so one less thing to worry about....)
* Complete Zender kit (for that bad boy 80s/Lambo style), including the bonnet bulge. Plan to use the original 2.0 bonnet with this.
* 156 Superturismo 17x7s (will eventually get semi slicks)
* Haltech E11v2- so I can run direct fire, sequential injection and finally get full digital ignition happening- I'm looking for some efficiency gains through the midrange and hopefully a bit more peak rwhp. Probably use less fuel, too.
* Found (via alfagtv6.com) a roll of remaining tan velour material.
* LX Recaros with mesh headrests- at some stage in my car's past (i'm 3rd owner), the 85 style seats were stolen. The insurance company replaced them with some old style (solid headrest) recaros re-trimmed to factory. These are crap. I could've gone with buckets, but I guess I want the 80s street machine look ;)
* RS racing coilovers. I'm looking at getting some V6 torsion bars- yes I overlooked this in the original conversion. Couldn't find any at the time, and ran out of $$. My study was expensive. And some PACE knuckle risers to help sort roll centre out with lowered car.
* Car has had all sound deadening chipped out and has been painted with Lizard Skin www.lizardskin.com ceramic heat and sound deadening. THis stuff is insanely good. And weighs nothing. Should offset things like the seats etc.
The car is nearly ready for paint. Hoping to have a full car at around 1100kgs.
more of how it was
How it sits, currently- with lizard skin painted on and dusted with the finished red. Bumpers on, rust removed, nearly ready for paint.
more- including one of the inspiration
I've seen a bonnet like the one in your inspirations before.
Some german site i think.
catch ya
Shane
I's a Zender moulding. It was meant for the 2.0, part of the full kit- just a bit of a "rice" add on- the GTV6 obviously didn't need it.
I got a full kit, so I have the piece. I'm cutting the vents out.
Dependant upon how the tuning goes with the ECU, I may try to run it on TPS vs RPM and make a six throttle manifold out of GSX-R throttle bodies- MD is my inspiration for this (and a good portion of my inspiration for the whole build!).
The vents will give them some fresh air to breathe.
I'm convinced after speaking to Vin Sharp and my friend's dad (they run a BMW F1, M10 engine in a sport sedan- used to be on quad throttles revving to 10k), that the throttles will crispen the engine up and liberate some good throttle response, mid range and top end. I've got to put the thing back together, first!
interesting. As I say, I have seen the bonnet before but it's never really blown my skirt up.
I have a Zender body kit on my GTV6 and the other week I bought a 1989 Zender catalogue - unfortunately the photo of the GTV's in it are quite small :-(
It does however include very nice examples of the Zender logo which I plan to scan so I can get some new Zender stickers for the kit made up.
Some method in my madness.
Catch ya
Shane
I think that bonnet, or something very similar, was used on the 'Chapparal' GTV6???
The Chaparrals used a full Zender kit- that's the bonnet add on. Mine will have the vents opened up.
Hoping to have painted shots up in a few weeks
I often wondered why Alfa, or the aftermarket, didn't simply reshape the coupe bonnet along the existing seam lines of the original (i.e. a rear-facing 'scoop'). Everything, including the factory GTV6 hump, all look like afterthoughts to my eye.
I still recall my first thoughts when I first sat in a 116 coupe. "I can't see the bonnet.....at all...." ;D
Or simply engineered the induction so it sat under the existing body line. Others since have proven that is entirely doable.
Congrats Julian on bringing a nice car back from the brink. Look forward to seeing the finished job.
Thanks Alister. The proof will be in the driving :)
Ok all - I need some pointers for rubber seals- all of them!
I Know about
Highwood Alfa in the uk
MrFiat.com
Are there any others?
Clark rubber for the generic seals, much cheaper.
They sell stuff like Bailey channel etc off the roll.
Also Scott's in Vic carry some seals for the Alfettas, see http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/ALFA%20ROMEO%201974-85%20ALFETTA%20GTV.htm
Thanks for that, Festy! I can smell a trip to Clark rubber coming on!
Anyone else used Scott's old rubber?
I used Scotts some years back. Nothing wrong with them, but unless the seals for things like the doors are exactly right in X-section, they either won't seal, or you'l have problems shutting the doors. The Alfetta coupe door gaps are pretty tight along the front section and few mms extra rubber makes a big difference.
Notice how modern cars all have big fat sealing rubbers?
From memory the 116 coupe boot rubber has an inner foam section that is supposed to sit at the forward corners. It 'lifts' the front of the hatch and helps keep the thing tight without it collapsing the seal, and helps to pop the hatch open when press the release button. If you are fitting new seals you can usually cut the old ones apart and retrieve these foam sections. With some talc you can work them into position in the new rubbers.
When installing rubbers held in place by pinchweld, make sure you 'push' the rubber home so it compresses the pinchweld. Push it really hard and work up a sweat :) Most people tend to just roll the pinchweld along the flanges but this invisibly spreads the pinchweld fingers and eventually the pinchweld naturally shrinks and the seals pull away at the corners, plus your seal is mysteriously an inch or two short at the join.
Had some luck at Clark rubber with seals- thanks for the tips guys!
RS suspension and watts link arrived yesterday.
Anyone after a full set of bilsteins?
I purchased some rubber from Scotts for the hatch seal and it works a treat. It was a little hard to close to start with but when you push the button it springs right up
Quote from: julianB on July 28, 2012, 09:45:07 AM
RS suspension and watts link arrived yesterday.
Anyone after a full set of bilsteins?
PM sent
Painted.... kit to go on.... bonnet still to be sorted....still to buy seals....still to swap to my 5 bolt hubs and put the 156 Superturismo rims on with the RS Coilovers and watts link, before figuring out new discs for the GTA Brembos. Once it's driving I'll start looking to wire up the E11v2.
Colour? Would you believe it's a Honda Milano red with some violet added... I wanted a pure red, rather than one with orange or brown undertones. I'm very happy with the result!
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The wheels are for sale if any one is interested, and I still have Bilsteins for sale- open to offers.
car will be home this weekend so I can start putting her back together.
Got some KBS Coatings (similar to POR15, but Aussie) black paint.
I'll be scuffing up the control arms, de dion and fuel tank and brushing it on. It just looks too good under there now that it's painted!
This stuff is self levelling and is meant to be a very strong finish.
Has anyone ever rebuilt GTA brembos before? I'm thinking i'd like to have mine blasted and powder coated yellow- just wondering how hard they are to rebuild.
One more.
Very Nice. I love these cars when they are being rebuilt - I think it might be 'cause you see more of the basic lines.
You're selling those wheels? i think they look good on the car, but wheels are such a personal thing.
Good work and good luck,
AL.
Thanks Al- I guess I've been looking at the wheels for a long time now!
They were on the car when I bought it. As the car was once a 2.0, it's got the 4x98 hubs, so the wheels are 4 bolt.
I've always wanted 17s (and I won't lie, I'm even contemplating these 18s - http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=280952448967&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=16214421484 or possibly these in 17s -http://www.rotaaustralia.com.au/d1_c65201_65384.htm ), so when a set of 156 rims came
Up for sale with good tread on them, I bit the bullet and got them... They're the 17x7 superturismo wheels- they look ok (I think I'll paint them black), but they were mainly to get rego with- they're gonna get semi slicks later, and the others will become road wheels.
I'll be changing to 5 bolt hubs this weekend, so I'll try get a pic of it on the 156 rims
Front hubs done- leaving the rears alone- no bearing puller.... So will take the car to someone who is going to help get it ready for rego- including this.
Carpet from tru fit on the way, and seals from mr fiat along the way....
the superturismo wheels are good but offset is shithouse, there is a good 60mm gap between rubber and guard on mine. and from the back or on an angle it looks terrible...
I've just realised that too, brad- spacer plate it is, then...
That's going to take some fat spacers! And spacers may not get through rego?
in sa spacers are illegal not sure about other states? i know people who run 25-50mm hubcentric spacers on track cars, no issues, they work...
on the alfetta platform, when you start increasing offset by big wheel or spacer, it increases the swinging radius of the steering front wheels, it will almost deffinatly rub on the inner guard / footwell area.
Spacers will be for the track only ! I'll go to the extent of 'almost rubbing' and leave it there.
Anticipating first start on weds. Excited!
Hey guys, work has been a bit nuts, so I've neglected to post any updates.
Here's a run down:
*Carpet arrived from Tru-Fit - yet to check it out, fitment wise. Looks nice. I'll let you know how it fits.
*Door cards and rear inserts re-trimmed. Look awesome.
*Seals arrived from MrFiat.com - these went in reasonably well, but it took a fair bit of stuffing around, with the window frames going in and out a few times, I scratched them. Inevitable, being the first time I've done something like this. I cut some of the bits too short, so I will pull them out and re do them later on down the track. Glued the seals together with Cynoacrylate glue- the same sort of super glue you might use on a model aircraft (yeah OK- I'm an aircraft nerd and build models!). Loctite make this in their 406 compound. Do yourself a favour and go to a hobby shop and ask for Cyno!
*She runs and I have most of the exhaust in (except one bolt I couldn't friggin find). The rear used to exit out of the centre, but now exits out of the LHS, so I will need the rear section re-made.
*Factory rails had the legs ground off with an angle grinder, separated them, sandblasted them bare, welded some tube and steel plate on them, and I now have the recaros in.
*Got my old C/F bonnet on with pins. It will do for now. I'm still having the other bonnet worked on- to get the Zender moulding onto it.
Here's some links revving it to 5. Wasn't going to bang 8k with the thing on stands. Asking for trouble just revving it to 5!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pe39DIwZgCU&feature=plcp (me being an idiot!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG7AEv6cn8U&feature=plcp (my mate being an idiot, too!)
It's an amazing feeling to have it get to here.
In the next couple of weeks, it will go to have the RS Coilovers and watts link put on, rear hubs swapped to 5 bolt, water pump and timing belt changed.
Trimmer said that first week of Jan he wants the seats done, and I will take the car to him for roof lining and carpet help.
Shooting for end of January- completely back together and on the road.
I've taken a Brisbane basing with work and imagine I will be there for 6-7 months, so I'll drive her up there and possibly start playing around with getting the E11V2 wired up.
Once that's done, I'll figure out the future, but I'm probably going to start saving for some Low comp pistons and rods, because normally aspirated is fun, but boost=instant torque. The idea being to have just enough torque to spin the wheels through second with 225s, because I'm pretty sure that's just below the point where the transaxle will break!
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Mate,
While you have the interior out, if you haven't done it already, replace the hard plastic breather tube to the fuel tank. And while you're at it all the rubber bits associated with the tank & vapour condensation tank. Clean all the oily goop out of metal parts too. Clean the one way pressure relief valve also. - so you don't get the "Petrol smell in the cabin in summer" syndrome. - Or whatever set-up your car has. It was originally a 4 cyl wasn't it?
I was always a bit concerned about the hard plastic vapour return line from the oil separator to the tank being routed under the carpet. I was considering replacing it with metal brake-line if I did the carpets.
Looking good. No, looking fantastic. Red with tan interior is may favourite combo.
AL.
Hey JOOOLES !! Looking good buddy. I am sensing some pants wetting excitement developing around your place.
When you get to Brizzy, I 'll have that coffee ready for ya. And, oh yeah, please overlook the bib I'll be wearing to stop the dribble getting on my shirt..
LOVE IT..... LOVE IT .... LOVE IT !!!!
Thanks Mike ! Wetting my pants frequently at the moment!
Send me a PM with your number - looks like I will either be in wollOngabba or bulimba.
Thanks for the tip, Al- where is this one way valve!?
Julian,
Just a much easier job to do with back seats removed and the plastic interior boot "hatch" off. Prick of a job with the car all assembled in the heat of the summer, which is the only time of year when you get the petrol smell.
From your image below. One way valve is in green oval, No. 3 in Manual page. Little spigot on top of valve lets air IN to tank pull off the rubber hose and blow hard into the spigot. fair bit of pressure required to overcome the pressure valve. Rubber tube going to the bottom of your picture joins to hard plastic tube inside the body somewhere near the wheel arch. I managed to replace the rubber and join it to the hard plastic tube without removing the trim card. I threaded a piece of 1 mm "fencing" type wire all the way through the hard plastic tube from the oil separator on the engine to the one way valve to check that it wasn't blocked. I reckon any tank over pressure in hot weather must go back into the engine via the oil seperator. Not legal to vent raw petrol fumes into the air. Later cars (in the USA anyway) had a charcoal canister/filter behind the wheel arch trim - bottom of the A pillar on Ozzie driver's side.
In the yellow oval there is a brass tube within tube arrangement, must be part of the vapour separation. Absolute mongrel to get the right size tubing and re install it. I had to drill out the pop rivet holding the plastic condensation tank on and push the tubing on out of the car. Brackets were loose anyway and would of been a source of rattles. Sometimes lube the inside of the tube with windex helps to push it on. Ammonia is nice and slippery, but evaporates quickly. Who likes a tight fit when dry?
Also the rubber tube from the condensate tank to the fuel tank has to be the right length, my first attempt with fuel tank in situ was long enough to kink shut.
But wait there's more! The brass tube on the top of the fuel tank that takes the rubber hose from the condensate tank has a small brass insert with a very fine hole, mine flew off when I pulled the rubber tubing off, lost in boot for a while. It was blocked with oily goop on my car contributed to the pressure build up for me. That little insert was a factory re-call/modification on the 75's, so it seem to be important for vapour separation.
Another issue with my car was the fuel gauge sender seal on the top of the tank. Mine looked great but still leaked. After filling the tank and going around a few corners, I could see the wet petrol on the top of the tank around the seal. Tightening screws didn't help of course, Replaced mine. Hard to get at half of the 6 screws with the tank in place.
May as well cover all rubber bits. Don't forget to check the condition of the big tank filler tube and the little fuel cap well to tank over-fill drain tube.
Do all that and no more petrol smell after filling in summer.
Regards,
Rubbery AL.
Well had a great day today- with no mirrors, door trims and console, but no carpet, I took her for a spin down the road and back.
With the balding old 16s on the back, she stepped out nicely, which was a great way to rekindle the relationship with the old girl, so much so, I'm gonna try to score a girlfriend of the same vintage! Late 20s! Lol
If anyone wants a little drive vid so you can hear her, just pm me ur address.
Off to Hugh Guthrie on thurs. I'll try get the seats done shortl. Have a wedding etc comin up- timing is shocking!
MD I've been comin back to syd on my days off - tried to call u, no didn't work...
I'll post some pics- I really like the 156 wheels! But I can't wait for my Zender Milanos to show up...!
PS Al, thanks for the advice! I'll let you know when I'm driving It but one of my hoses was blocked!
Hey I just noticed there is no Battery well in Jules' boot! My car had a metal (rusty, of course) box like the spare wheel well. Well I'll be horn swoggled.
QuoteMD I've been comin back to syd on my days off - tried to call u, no didn't work...
I know what your problem is. Your nuts are under your chin with excitement strangling the bloodflow to the cranium. You forgot to put the 40 cents in the slot when using the TARDIS ya dummkopf.
Try again and this time get your mum to sew up the holes in your pockets so the coins don't fall out, run down your leg into those lead boots you wear.. ;D
Keep up the good work fella.. :)
Mine was a 2.0- moved the battery there!
MD I'll try get you when I'm back up on the weekend
I thought all the plastic bumpered GTV's had a boot mounted battery? However, it is not a well like in the GTV6's as that is where the petrol tank sits - it is just a metal plate welded to the floorpan that the battery bolts onto.
My '79 has the boot mounted battery (no well) but my '77 has it up the front.
I thought all the cars with factory A/C got boot mounted batteries, but not sure if that's the case...
Quotebut not sure if that's the case...
I am certain that is the case.
However don't forget that this is actaully a better palce for it. Balances the car better and the battery will last longer away from the engine bay heat cycles. Bonus !
Yes I'm certain it's the case too :)
Makes for easier jump starting as well, however only downside was when some
idiot knocked the battery over (me) and split battery acid destroying perfectly good
boot carpet.
Loving your updates Julian keep them coming, cant wait to hear this thing !
I'm positive my old 80 GTV had factory A/C and the battery was in the engine bay, but my 81 with A/C has battery in the boot.
my '80 GTV with AC has the battery in the trunk
I like the idea of having the battery elegantly out of sight, and it should be something that doesn't need too much attention!!
MD, there's a prefix missing from my useage of the Tardis - re - !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS5vCaHGXpA&feature=youtu.be
Little bit of oppy lock, didn't really wanna rev it too hard- yet!
Dropped it off to Hugh's place and the car elicited a comment of "lovely little Alfa!" from a gentleman who looked familiar. He was doing some stuff and Hugh and he were chatting away. He went on his way, and Hugh said, "did you recognise him?"
"yeah- he looks familiar"
"That's Colin Bond!" Ahhhh duuhhhh!! Should've got a pic with him and the car - especially considering they're his old cams!
Only lets me attach one image at a time...
Still a bit to be done.... but getting a lot closer ;D
Yeah sorry about the attachment limit - 1024KB per post (up to 4 attachments). The idea is to encourage people to upload slightly smaller photos and save on server disk space. It's getting cheaper all the time, but hosting disk space is still stupidly expensive...
Entirely understandable! Hence, I've been sparing with my uploads!
Quote from: julianB on January 10, 2013, 09:18:44 PM
Entirely understandable! Hence, I've been sparing with my uploads!
No really - post as many as you want, there's no serious constraint - but if you can, shrink them down to 1024 wide or less - save some space and they'll be easier to view within the page. Great project btw - loved the video.
Forgot to add a few:
These rear circuit boards from www.motozane.com are awesome, the rear lights work so much better than they ever did.
And a few more pics with some goodies ready to go on:
Been a very busy boy at work!
The car has had a few things done and a few issues found with it:
Rear bearings both shot so replaced when the hubs were changed.
Longer wheel studs used in case I decide to go with cambered dedion and spacers down the track
RS stuff fit to rear
Gearbox mounts gone- being replaced
Ball joints for 105 castor rods gone- can anyone tell me where I can get replacements?
LCA ball joints gone
Front right rack end gone- being replaced
The exhaust is being re-made in stainless from the extractors back, and re-routed
Unfortunately, the RS watts link doesn't have a kink in it to allow the exhaust to pass over the top of the left hand side, so Hugh will fab a section and use their heim joints etc
Lights with relays and crystal vision bulbs wired in
Wipers now work lol
And the piece' de resistance, the car is sitting on its new 17" Zender Milanos!
The wheels have had the centrebore machined out to fit the 116 hub, and with the +35 et, fill out the guards nicely!
They really suit the Zender kit, too!
Pics to come!
Ordering some PACE knuckle risers to mod front roll centre.
Front end work will be complete once the T bars are out and LCAs hanging- ball joints and RS stuff.
Running out of cash (living in two cities is expensive!) so interior still not done...
Just want to drive it! Hahaha patience Julian, patience!
Quote from: festy on July 18, 2012, 11:32:53 AM
Clark rubber for the generic seals, much cheaper.
They sell stuff like Bailey channel etc off the roll.
Also Scott's in Vic carry some seals for the Alfettas, see http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/ALFA%20ROMEO%201974-85%20ALFETTA%20GTV.htm
Clark rubber *in theory* sell Bailey channel but I spent a fruitless few hours driving across town to visit 2 Brisbane Clark rubber stores, first of which had 2 profiles but not the one I was looking for, initially denied there were any other profiles then when presented with web site on phone still refused to order in or get a sample and reluctantly suggested the second store was bigger and would have it in stock. That store actually had the same 2 profiles but only a couple of meters of each but at least the staff member I spoke to there was helpful and suggested that I was now just around the corner from Rare Spares and that I try them.
Rare Spares, while a Holden and to a lesser extent Ford restoration parts supplier did indeed have Bailey channel for Alfetta sedan - same channel as a Commodore, problem solved. Also had some panel clips I'd been looking for and were generally very helpful....
I'm pretty sure the profile I was looking for at Clark rubber based on web site image was the same profile Rare Spares had - so if your local Clark Rubber store is actually interested in providing a service and selling something you can probably get the same thing there.... Or if you want 30m order it online....
Been very busy at work- living part-time between Bris and Sydney, but it's drawing to a close at the end of june.
Sitting around has taken it's toll....!
Sourced new balljoints for the LCA and castor rods (105 ones). Whole front end will be rebuilt with PACE knuckle risers and RS coils soon.
Mufflers arrived. Exhaust can start soon.
Still stuffing around with seat rails. Driving me insane.
Zenders on.
Getting there......
Pics
pics
In the previous pics you can:
see the difference between the new and old collectors, and the exhaust system. Hugh even notched the rear crossmember to fit the exhaust nice and snug. I can't believe the amount of ground clearance I have now. Even with the car lowered.
The exhaust sounds deeper and much more nicely muffled. Haven't heard the car at 7.5-8k yet so I don't know how it sounds at full noise.
RS front suspension and PACE knuckle risers. Got a pic of the rear somewhere but macbook dying and I don't have charger handy so just typing!
The trimmer got loaded up with a few "full jobs" so couldn't take to my trim in time. I'm going for a Blue slip ASAP so I got the untouched interior off him and it's all been fitted. I'll take it to him at a later date to have the roof lining and seats re-trimmed, Pillars etc. All back to as close to factory as possible, in one go. Hopefully a few weeks.
There's a shot of the billet pieces Hugh made to mount the Vitaloni Baby Tornado mirrors. These look so close to the factory ones but now I have two. They are non power. Doesn't bother me.
Gave her a clean and had to take a shot while there was some light left.
Plates ordered. Hoping to be driving her shortly.... a few things still need fixing up!
Cheers
J
And.... Wow! Drove it home today!
The RS kit is brilliant. Brilliant!
The steering with the knuckle risers is amazing- it's so agile!
A short period to enjoy as she's off to the trimmers tomorrow.
Still a few things to sort out, but I will make some vids soon.
Well done a great journey.
It would make a great article for the magazine. Interested in putting finger to keyboard with a few high res photos?
Great work! Those wheels really work. What model are those Recaro seats? Wouldn't mind something a bit more snug around the sides...
Thanks, gents!
Felt great to heel n toe an alfetta again!
Phil, I'd be honoured! Thank you! PM me of what you are looking for in an article so I can be succinct and I'm happy to oblige!
Ill wait until the interior is finished before I take some more shots.
Marty, the recaros are an LX- the pros : are they are much lighter than the originals- MUCH!
They have the mesh headrest for that original look, and they are a good width and height for the car
I can't see a con (but I'm generally glass half full), but the bolstering is good from what I experienced today- may be a different story on the track...
The 156 rims need their centrebores machined out to alfetta diameter, at which point ill fit semi slicks- no track days until funds permit that ... I will update!
Interior is done... Wow! Ill wash her and get some nice photos soon!
First off, the fuel smell is ridiculous! I've got monday and tuesday planned to take apart the fuel system again and replace all hoses. I'll be following Al Campbell's post from earlier on and hoping to have a result.
But driving her just gets better and better. The front end no longer seems to load up and compress to the point where it seems to "fall over" on the outside front... the steering stays light, I can get on the power and just drive through corners... but here's the catch- it steers so much better (and I'm so out of practice!) that I don't trust myself to be able to catch the tail and drift it right now... I will edge my way into this on the track.
My little 2.5 screamer is getting better with every drive. She is obviously happy to be back on the road. Got some custom plates. They weren't my first choice, but they suit the car... they're just a regular no. plate with letters first, numbers second. They contain a "6" and the letters "GTV", so I'm happy ;)
Interior pics- it almost looks factory, with a subtly modified taste to it, IMO. I love it.
My girlfriend and another friend (female), both interior designers by trade, had questioned my scheme.... and both have given it the nod.... not that is was ever "my" scheme!
an outside shot and I found a cousin, just round the corner :)
I've had a busy, busy period over the last few years.... My workload has increased dramatically and there's been a fair bit of work related study occurring. I began renovating my unit...when a forum member offered an engine I thought would suit my end goal very nicely. Unfortunately, a few large things went wrong with the unit and sucked a bit more of my savings out than I would have liked and the sale fell through.
Then I blew a front donut at 8000rpm in 2nd gear (the front wheels were doing about 60km/h and the rears... Much more lol) while showing off to a mate hahaha
Well, first one in 13 years, so Beninca's balancing job has played its part! I had it coming.serves me right!
In October, I purchased a GTA engine that came out of a wrecked car showing 90,000km.
The plan is some slight re profiling of the cams and machining of the base circles for more lift.
Skim the heads and match port the inlets to what is likely to be a set of Jenvey throttle bodies.
The heads will be skimmed for some extra compression. Not much.
I'm looking at ECU options but it's looking like a Motec M84 and PDM combination- the whole car will be re-wired and I won't have a fuse box or any questionable connections to worry about. Every electrical part in the car will receive its full system voltage and switches won't wear out (I recently replaced a steering switch assembly unit).
The accumulation of new bits has started!
I won't fix the tail shaft/donut. We are going fabricate a new one and a flywheel to take a BMW E46 M3donut front and centre and leave the Alfa one at the clutch end. Recently, I've heard of a few other Alfetta tailshafts having their yoke end bolts start to splay out from abuse over the years, causing donuts to fail (as mine did). A modern donut design will provide longevity and good quality parts for years to come.
Some 147 GTA 330mm type calipers are currently being coated at HPC in Sydney (inspired in part, by Shiny car's awesome work on his 75). I think I've deicded against a full floating set up for the front discs. The bling would have been amazing but I would prefer to spend the $ elsewhere.
I have a spare (fibreglass copy from Alfpa) zender bumper and it's painted to match the car.
I'm going to play with this one a bit. Looking at www.aeroloc.co.uk bits to come up with a quickly interchangeable solution for track days.
156 rims have had their centrebores machines to the correct diameter.
Probably going to purchase a fibreglass South African 3.0 bonnet (with the NACA ducting) and have some extra venting added to it.
This will serve as air for the ITBs and also heat removal.
Anyone with some good stereo ideas, please feel free to suggest. Looking for a purely blue tooth system and two good all around speakers for the front door. Light and not too intrusive, but loud enough for Jamiroquai to be heard on country drives!
Quote from: julianB on March 12, 2016, 07:59:23 PM
In October, I purchased a GTA engine
If that still turns out to be too slow, you should now be able to get a 5.7L LS1 engineered in a 116 coupe under NCOP regs, and they're dirt cheap 8)
I love the new chev engines, but I could never bring myself to put anything but an Alfa engine in an Alfa...nope, this is the last stuff I'll do to this GTV6.
I'm still craving a turbo 4... And I think I my GT Jr is going to play host to one down the track!
Hope everyone had a fantastic christmas.
I've just posted a big update and I'm going to link to it :
https://alfagtv6.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4195&start=180
It's stunning Julian
Awesome build Julian and I bet you can't wait to get it on the road in this final configuration. Hope to catch up again on one of AROCA NSW club runs in the not too distant future.
Nice work Julian.
love the throttle bodies. ;)
Thanks, Gents.
It's appreciated.
The long road is coming to an end!
I'll be out and about at club drive days and the track once I've shaken the car down, Bonno.
I'll take you for a run and see how you like it
Julian great to see your posts... your car has been an inspiration for mine and thanks for the calls and texts with your help and advice. One day soon we can go cruising together :D
Sam, the feeling is completely and utterly mutual and I can't wait to throw you the keys!
Just read your thread Julian, what a journey, and I thought restoring the SA 3 litre was hard!
Look forward to seeing it on the road.
John
Thanks John.
There's a reality check in it for me, though...
Your SA 3.0 has real value which makes the work you've put in an investment, rather than just work!
Mine, being a 2.0, was never going to be worth anything.
I guess there's some freedom in being bale to modify freely and not worry about value.
I love what you've done with yours. I'd love an SA 3.0!
Quick update- I'm back in Melbourne and trucking away on the GTV.
Vacuum Block to take a signal from the ITB runners is mounted with -4 Braided lines and 1/8" NPT AN fittings.
Rocker covers have had -10 Breathers welded on to run to a catch can.
Waiting on radiator so I can route breather lines, mount remote oil filter and oil cooler, as well as their -10 Lines.
-6 braided lines for the fuel feed and return have been purchased but not mounted.
Clutch housing brace complete- just assembling Clutch now...
Quick update-
I'm back in Sydney and having a few things done to get me closer.
Re-visiting alternator mounting as I wasn't happy with how close my GTA alternator was to the exhaust manifold on the driver side.
I've ordered an Abarth 500 120a alternator- it's tiny in comparison!
It will mount off the 12v sump bracket on the Passenger side.
The car is being completely Re-wired with a new loom, hopefully starting in 3 weeks. The motec will be terminated then.
I had GW drivelines modify a 90 Tailshaft with a smaller diameter Chromoly front section and a commodore CV in the centre. It will use a donut cage up front and the "fuse" will be the stock rear donut.
I am hoping that with the steel-plate clutch housing brace and collar around the clutch housing snout, that this holds together during "spirited" driving.
Interior will start soon, as well.
I am having a pedal box made using a friend's fabricated steel housing. It bolts onto the stock pedal box cavity on the firewall and uses tilton MCs for fr/rear brake circuits, a stock clutch pedal and MC. Will remove the stock crossover bar and booster, which will allow me to clean up my vacuum setup on the firewall- one line for the MAP sensor and the other for the FPR, but no booster. Yes!
Some fiddling of the body required to get my bumpers lined up, then I'll urethane the flares on and the M4 stainless bolts that locate them will remain - I'll use some lightweight thread locker to make sure they don't vibrate loose.
The car looks absolutely smoking hot...
I'm not going to post exterior photos until the thing is complete - not too far off.
I can vouch and have seen in the flesh that this thing is going to be unbeatable.....
Wow wee ;D 8)
Good luck mate and hope you finish this soon been too long.
Thanks mate! can't wait to throw you the keys!