Alfa Romeo Owners Club of Australia Forum

Technical => 932 Series (156, GTV, Spider, 147, GT, and 166) => Topic started by: Beatle on September 16, 2019, 06:11:14 PM

Title: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 16, 2019, 06:11:14 PM
So I picked up a cheap 156 V6 Auto on the weekend.

Needed something more economical than the petrol Landcruiser to drive to work now that my daughter inherited the Kia with her P-plates.
At least that's how I convinced myself...

<140,000kms. Belts done 2 years ago and interior is in exceptional condition. Paint not so good, and a few dings & scrapes on the bodywork that I may be able to live with.....
Needs at least CV boots for rego, but has a slight clunk on the RH front so likely up for new suspension arms.

Doesn't have the mumbo of the 3.2 GT  :(, and it's decidedly quiet, but for $1800 it'll do for the half-hour, no-traffic-light, skippy-dodging trip to work each day   :)

Plenty of things to fix: coolant temp low, sunroof blind is adrift, LCD trip display cactus, all speakers are popped (fixed: http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=19909.0).
But most stuff works (aircon!, locks, windows, sunroof, two keys, good lights) .

Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 16, 2019, 06:12:39 PM
I can't believe the condition of the driver's seat.  Must have been driven by a ghost!
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Citroënbender on September 16, 2019, 08:08:23 PM
Or they put the LHS base on it!
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on September 16, 2019, 10:12:59 PM
Don't forget to repaint the drivers mirror base plate.

At least you know the airbag system has no issues.  ;)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on September 16, 2019, 10:15:45 PM
Quote from: Beatle on September 16, 2019, 06:11:14 PM
Needs at least CV boots for rego, but has a slight clunk on the RH front so likely up for new suspension arms.

Check the roll bar and the drop links first before touching the suspension arms, not that at 140,000 km a refresh would do any harm.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: poohbah on September 17, 2019, 12:23:07 AM
Well done Beatle. They still look better than almost anything else built in the last 20 years.

I'm on my second V6, but first auto. Not as quick as the manual, but as autos go, the Q system is not bad. I just drive it manually all the time.

Oh, everyone's taste is different I guess, but I reckon the series 1 cars with the indented grille are easily the better looking cars. So good choice!
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 17, 2019, 07:44:59 AM


[/quote]

Check the roll bar and the drop links first before touching the suspension arms, not that at 140,000 km a refresh would do any harm.
[/quote]

The paperwork for a recent rego inspection says RH CV boot U/s, and inside of RH front tyre worn.   I'm yet to jack it up and check things out but that tyre wear would point to control arm wear (or a bent chassis from some past bingle).  Si I will likely do upper & lwr control arms both sides along with drop links and roll bar bushes..

Where is a good source for these components?  Lots on ebay but significant differences in price, so how do I know what is decent quality?
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on September 17, 2019, 10:29:51 AM
Inside tyre wear will be due to worn upper control arms.

As for parts try the following -

www.aresespares.com.au (http://www.aresespares.com.au)

www.italianautomotivespares.com.au (http://www.italianautomotivespares.com.au)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on September 17, 2019, 10:35:57 AM
Quote from: poohbah on September 17, 2019, 12:23:07 AM
Oh, everyone's taste is different I guess, but I reckon the series 1 cars with the indented grille are easily the better looking cars. So good choice!

Before I bought one, I used to think the grilles on Alfa Romeos were weird & Ugly . . . . . now that I own one I consider them to be unique and distinctive! 8)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 17, 2019, 07:40:43 PM
Quote from: bazzbazz on September 17, 2019, 10:29:51 AM
Inside tyre wear will be due to worn upper control arms.

Thanks Bazz,

Is this readily identified/narrowed down by putting the car on chassis stands and levering the suspension?
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 22, 2019, 09:23:33 PM
THESE THINGS ARE SENT TO TRY US!   >:( :o :'( ;)

So after looking over the front suspension I've decided to replace UCAs, LCAs, sway bar links and bushes, along with the RH CV boot which was the reason it failed the RWC from the seller.

I started to remove components for dropping the subframe - Got the exhaust separated at the Cat and flex pipes, only to destroy a flange stud in the process.  Lots of penetrant, heat, impact, but still snapped it flush using my new stud remover... Of course, it was the top stud so I couldn't get access with a drill......

Pulled the front headers off at the manifold (easier than I thought) and spent the day wearing out a variety of drill bits but managed to drill it dead centre (not bad for an old bloke with a battery drill).   Cleaned out the remnants of the stud and ran a tap through.

Along the way I also found one of the front exhaust hangar retaining bolts was loose due to a wayward captive nut in the floor.   Hopefully I can get the tunnel section down far enough to clear the subframe without having to remove this bolt.    Does anyone know if these captive nuts are accessible under the cabin carpeting?
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Citroënbender on September 23, 2019, 07:44:37 AM
If it's like the 147, then yes. From memory they are just tack welded on.

Although on a 147 removing the carpet is a fair old mission.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on September 23, 2019, 09:31:39 AM
May I suggest tacking it in place with some high strength epoxy?
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 23, 2019, 05:50:10 PM
Thanks gents.

CB:  Do you recall if it's just a nut. or is it on a plate?   i.e. could I possibly hold it in place by drilling a hole and installing a rivet?
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Citroënbender on September 25, 2019, 01:56:52 PM
From memory a basic steel hex nut.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 25, 2019, 05:52:41 PM
I took a few days off and spent the afternoon tinkering while I await delivery of all the suspension components.

Installed a new exhaust stud.

Made a tool to hold the wheel hub when undoing/torqueing the front axle nut.  I'm not a fan of rattle guns....
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 25, 2019, 05:54:44 PM
Bought a 6-spoint 36mm impact socket and had it turned down to 48.5mm OD but it still needed some linisher work to fit fully inside the hub.

Using the hub holder it was really quite easy to undo the nuts so a normal thin walled 12-point 36mm socket would likely do the job, though I wouldn't risk it if using a rattle gun.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 25, 2019, 06:08:08 PM
Got to undoing hardware to drop the centre tunnel to allow the subframe to drop.  On my car the tunnel overlaps the subframe considerably so I had to remove all the tunnel fasteners except for the two at the very back.  Remains to be seen if this is sufficient to get the sway bar out.





Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on September 25, 2019, 06:11:11 PM
The previously mentioned spinning tunnel bolt was toward the front of the floor so I managed to remove the passenger footwell trim, pull the carpet and deadener back to expose the captive nut, removed the bolt, removed the nut, tapped it out and refitted it.   The carpet is a single piece across both footwells so I had to cut it in the centre to peel it back.

These nuts are loosely captive using folded sheetmetal tabs, I guess to allow for some wiggle room when reinstalling the tunnel.   WARNING:  Don't use force when lining up the tunnel with these nuts as it's too easy to dislodge them from their captor!   I'll be using lube on all these bolts on re-installation.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on October 09, 2019, 10:56:34 PM
Managed to fully R&R the subframe.  First time it's ever been removed.   The two PS rack bolts galled on the way out so I had to spend some time with a thread file and wire brush to remove all aluminium from the bolt threads.  Cut two grooves in the first few threads of the bolts with a hacksaw to act a thread chaser and carefully cleaned out the threads in the rack.   With copper lube, both bolts threaded in by hand, so hopefully no future issues there.  On re-installation the bolts were torqued just over the minimum (wasn't going to push my luck).

Replacing the anti roll bar bushes was a cinch with the subframe on the bench.

RH axle refitted with new boots and grease.  The aftermarket outer boot seems hard and kind of plasticky, so I doubt it will last for long.  A smear of sealant on the inner flange to help keep the grease from flinging out (should there be a gasket here?) and the allen key bolts/nuts loctited and torqued.

Made a replacement disk retaining bolt from one of the spare exhaust studs as original was snapped off.

The biggest issue so far has been realigning the tunnel section...... lots of frustration but finally got it all tacked back into place.  Again, didn't overdo things when doing up the bolts given previous issue with the wayward captive nut.

BTW, on my car there was no PS pipe bracket holding the pipes to the subframe, only a curved retaining plate that the hose simply slips behind.  I spent ages looking for that bracket before dropping the subframe.

New greaseable UCAs are in place. 

Hopefully this weekend I'll finish the LCAs and reassembly of the front suspension/brakes plus re-installation of the forward exhaust sections.

I'm SERIOUSLY going to install a hoist in the shed as a Xmas present.......... ::)


Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on October 18, 2019, 06:07:22 PM
Work completed and passed rego.

New upper control arms, lower control arms, sway bar bushes.  4-wheel alignment and balance.

Drives straight, but running poorly.  Maybe I shouldn't have washed the engine...........

Be sure to wave if you pass me on the Warrego Hwy.

Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on October 18, 2019, 07:43:55 PM
Quote from: Beatle on October 18, 2019, 06:07:22 PM
Drives straight, but running poorly.  Maybe I shouldn't have washed the engine..........

DOH !   ::)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on October 18, 2019, 08:09:20 PM
Quote from: bazzbazz on October 18, 2019, 07:43:55 PM

DOH !   ::)

Despite the little Alfa Angel whispering in my ear, I simply couldn't help myself..... ::)

Next step is to hook up my new OBD reader to check codes, then pull it all apart to access the sparkplugs.   Hopefully it's just that the tubes are full of water.

I'll also pull as many connectors as I can access and dry them out.   
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on October 22, 2019, 07:11:37 PM
So I did find water in the sparkplug tubes  ::).

Plugs were definitely overdue for replacement, as was the air filter element.  I can see now why the filter is often ignored, it's in a bugger of a spot!
I see Alfa even went to the trouble of placing smooth plastic caps over the relay block retaining studs so as to reduce the risk of tearing the element on installation. A bit of a bandaid solution though.

I took the opportunity to slot the relay bracket for easier removal when changing the filter, and discovered my relay positions don't match the relay cover diagram or the handbook.  Luckily someone has taken the time to mark the relays. 

While it was apart I cleaned the throttle body, plenum, and sprayed the MAF unit with the proper cleaner.

New filter element retails at $28-$30 from the Alfa spares suppliers, Repco wanted $130.00 for a Ryco equivalent....... 

Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on October 22, 2019, 08:11:11 PM
Quote from: Beatle on October 22, 2019, 07:11:37 PM
Plugs were definitely overdue for replacement, as was the air filter element.  I can see now why the filter is often ignored, it's in a bugger of a spot!

Have you changed the oil filter yet?  ;)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on October 23, 2019, 08:10:35 AM
No, but I looked closely at its position while I was doing the front end.   Can't be more awkward than the GT...
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on October 23, 2019, 09:46:45 AM
And you recon the air filter is in a bugger of a spot?   ::)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on October 26, 2019, 05:16:58 PM
All fixed.   New plugs and filter, and everything dried out.
Even with a lot of stuff removed I still drew blood fitting the air filter........... ::)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 04, 2020, 09:08:24 PM
Maintenance activity continues.   The coolant hasn't been coming up to temp since I got the car.  Temps had been so low, even in our recent 40+ heatwave(s), I suspected the thermostat may have been gutted by the previous owner.  Turns out the thermostat had simply failed open (typical failure on any 156).  Because I've had the A/C running continuously the A/C condensor fans have been working well enough to keep the engine cool.

Before I drained the coolant I tried adding some radiator flush, but not sure it went anywhere but in the header tank.

After wrestling with some factory-style hose clamps I drained the coolant, flushed (lots), changed the thermostat, and refilled.

Unfortunately, I only managed to get about 6L of new coolant into the system.  No room for the demin water I purchased.  So the system is now running around 60% Nulon Red OAT / 40% tap water..... 

Single use clamps were replaced with screw clamps to make things easier next time around.  Engine now comes up to temp correctly and the fans come on with the temp needle bang on the middle of the gauge (90 deg C).

BTW, 6L of Nulon concentrate is currently $38.99 at Supercheap.  2.5L is $36.99







   
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 06, 2020, 05:36:32 PM
While I had the electrical connector box loosened to access the thermostat I disconnected the connectors and gave them a spray with Inox.  Not sure if it was this, or the new thermostat, but the hard erratic miss at idle is now gone!  ;D
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on January 06, 2020, 10:04:39 PM
NOT INNOX !

It is a lubricant like WD40 and contains an oil lubricant. You want electrical cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol spray (Jaycar) which is completely volatile to use to clean electrical plugs and contacts.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 07, 2020, 09:03:25 AM
Don't panic Barry...    I've never had an issue using Inox, in the right place, and often after I've used a contact cleaner.  I always wipe/blow off the excess, but the intent in this case is to leave a protective film against corrosion and lube the plug seals (I refer the reader to my previous post where I pressure washed the engine.....).   These cars are getting old and I'd rather a light corrosion-protective coating than a nice dry corroded connection.

Of course, I'm not using it on anything sensitive (MAF, electronics) but for electrical connectors I've always found it works great. 

I'm not afraid to use it on fuse box contacts, or on old copper-track/soldered circuits like the back of Alfetta instrument boards.   It doesn't dry out like WD-40 and doesn't have the solvents of other WDs which tend to eat protective coatings and rubber.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 11, 2020, 01:15:30 PM
First oil change completed.  On this car the filter is significantly easier to access than it was on my GT and there is no undertray to remove.  http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=14259.msg84338#msg84338

Still needed my SCA filter pliers to loosen it but I didn't need to move any hardware to get access or to extricate the filter from it's hidey-hole.   Barely spilled a drop of oil.  :D

As I don't know prior history, I rolled the dice and ran Nulon Oil Flush through it, and left it drain fully overnight.

Refilled with Penrite Premium 10W-60.  A tad expensive for a daily driver and one 5L bottle isn't enough.  It's also harder to source than Castrol Edge Supercar 10W-60 (similar price), but I have a 'thing' about Castrol oils (completely baseless......)

I'll be leaving it in there for 10,000kms (the 'book' interval is 20,000km with 10W-40  :o)  On the GT I ran a 5k interval.

I still reckon Penrite HPR 10W-50 would be a more than suitable alternative for this car, and 5 years ago it was the Penrite recommendation for the GT, but I see Penrite now only have the 10W-60 listed for all 2000's Alfas with no alternates offered.  I'd guess the marketing guys have decided that Alfa owners are all cashed up... 



Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on January 11, 2020, 01:33:25 PM
Quote from: Beatle on January 07, 2020, 09:03:25 AM
Don't panic Barry...   


(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcRchh1ClTOIpn4oyrryixX1hiTBfHPTszXMwkXJ-yGSUnjaqVUw)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Craig_m67 on January 11, 2020, 02:16:08 PM
Quote from: bazzbazz on January 11, 2020, 01:33:25 PM
Quote from: Beatle on January 07, 2020, 09:03:25 AM
Don't panic Barry...   


(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcRchh1ClTOIpn4oyrryixX1hiTBfHPTszXMwkXJ-yGSUnjaqVUw)

Ha!  That takes me back
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 13, 2020, 06:15:03 PM
Are the front head restraints adjustable in a 2002/3 156?  Mine don't seem to move. 
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Craig_m67 on January 13, 2020, 10:14:35 PM
They were in mine (up and down).
There is a button that you press on one of the headrest legs(?) to allow it to move.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 16, 2020, 10:46:37 PM
Damned if I can find a button on mine.  But the construction looks like they should be adjustable.  e.g. the legs have loads of clearance where they enter the headrest which looks like they should adjust fore-aft.  But I can't work out how to even adjust them vertically  :o

I can't imagine a vehicle offering safety items such as ABS, EBD, and VDC doesn't have ABH (adjustable bloody headrests)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on January 16, 2020, 11:42:48 PM
This is what the headrest mount should look like, you press the tab on the side to release the headrest so you can move it up and down -

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Q-gAAOSwMtJcgotg/s-l1600.jpg)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bonno on January 17, 2020, 06:42:44 AM
Hi Beatle
My 156 JTS has no release pins as shown in BazzBazz photo, but are adjustable by pushing up or down see photos attached in the lowered position and raised position.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 17, 2020, 02:21:36 PM
Yeah,  mine are like yours Bonno, and look to currently be in the full down position.  The plastic legs are smooth with no buttons.  I also tried rotating the legs, unsuccessfully, to see if that's how they locked.

I'll have to try using a bit more brute force.  They may not have been moved in 15 years so need a little coaxing. ;)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bonno on January 17, 2020, 03:02:55 PM
Suggest a little gentle persuasion via placing 2 x timber pieces between the 2 vertical rods/slides and a timber wedge in between so as not to damage seat or tear the leather.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on January 17, 2020, 04:20:23 PM
Quote from: Beatle on January 17, 2020, 02:21:36 PM
I'll have to try using a bit more brute force.

"Use a bigger hammer"

"If it won't fit, FORCE IT! If it break, eh, it needed replacing anyway"

Two very popular dictum employed by Air Force maintenance personnel on a daily basis.  ;)
(Especially "Sumpy's")*






* Sumpy - Military slang for a Engine Fitter
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bonno on January 17, 2020, 04:34:39 PM
Maybe for Military vehicles, but definitely NOT the case, if they were working on fixed or rotary wing aircraft.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: bazzbazz on January 17, 2020, 05:55:42 PM
Quote from: bonno on January 17, 2020, 04:34:39 PM
Maybe for Military vehicles, but definitely NOT the case, if they were working on fixed or rotary wing aircraft.

I was being facetious.   ::)

;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 17, 2020, 09:08:37 PM
I will take precautions to protect the leather.  Maybe slide a deflated football into the gap and inflate it........   What can possibly go wrong  :o  Probably open the sunroof first and place a net over the hole  :D.

PS:   I believe 'facetious' is the shortest word to contain all the vowels, in order, with no repetition.
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 26, 2020, 07:14:33 PM
OK so I got the headrests to move.  A fair amount of vertical force. plus a twist, applied while sitting in the back seat got them to move.  I then sprayed garage door lube up into the headrests, being careful not to allow it to drip onto the leather.  They now move as they should.  ;)
Title: Re: Back In The Saddle!
Post by: Beatle on January 26, 2020, 09:24:50 PM
Issues with the busted ashtray resolved:  http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=20088.0

And sticky console plastic: http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=20087.0
I still need to clean up the window switch panels on the doors, and any other sticky trim.