Hi all, I've recently bought my first Alfa - a 1970 1750 GTV. I've always had a soft spot for them and it's also going to be my first restoration after 20-odd years of modifying cars. Took a while for my tastes to mature!
This is how it looks at the moment.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/11141e33e29d71c6f8a06d701257a051.jpg)
I'll be doing everything except body and paint myself and the first task is to rebuild the brakes. Technically this is the 2nd task as I've already fitted new clutch master and slave cylinders so I was able to get it up my driveway.
The engine runs but could do with a freshen up and the suspension bushes appear to be surprisingly sound. Apparently it hasn't run for a few years and the exterior and interior are fairly ordinary.
Rust so far seems to be minimal but there is some bog behind the front wheels so there might be a surprise in the sills. Floor, boot and the base of the front/rear windscreens are solid but there is some rust below the rear side windows.
Should be a fun project and I'm looking forward to getting out with the family. I already have a couple of keen helpers.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/3cdddcece9b91f8045e9e7283b1abe20.jpg)
All the brake calipers are off now and will soon be fully dismantled. I'll need to find an electroplater to sandblast and re-zinc them next. The master cylinder is being resleeved & rebuilt this week and a collection of seals etc are on their way to me.
Trying to find new front brake rotors seems to be a challenge though - any tips on where to order a pair would be appreciated!
Congratulations on the project. I hope you don't find many nasty surprises in the metalwork but I would always brace for the worst in the sill area. If you are lucky you will get away with only having to replace the outer sill piece. (It is a 3 piece section)
I got my last pair of rotors from Repco. I thought DBA (Disc Brakes Australia?) made them? If not you can get them from a couple of the Australian suppliers like Turin Imports or The Spare Place. Then there are the candy shops of Classic Alfa and Alfaholics in the UK who have extraordinarily fast shipping. Pound is way down at the moment too...
You've got Robert from Manning Motors in Sydney too who knows these cars very well.
Other than the crappy paint it looks quite original. How is the engine?
Thanks Derek. I tried the Spare Place this arvo (hadn't heard of them before) but they didn't have any stock. I'd not really considered the UK suppliers but Classic Alfa seems to have reasonable shipping on them so I'll give them a try.
The engine starts easily but it's only been used to back into the garage. After I'm done with the brakes there are plenty of electrical gremlins to chase down and I'll eventually make my way to inspecting the engine closer.
The plan is to get everything working, or at least an understanding of what needs attention before worrying about the bodywork. Even in its shabby state I'm quite happy to just sit and look at it!
Classic Alfa takes 3 days to get here. Even the big box with my exhaust I ordered recently came in 3 days. Amazing.
If you can do it, try and get it on the road as a driver rather than trying to pretty everything up because it will snowball. I'm sure you already know what I mean. Fixing my clutch ended up taking 7 years with a full engine rebuild and bare metal respray... ::)
They are art. I also have been known to just sit in my garage and stare!
Good luck!
Quote from: Damien Smith on July 13, 2016, 07:56:49 PM
Even in its shabby state I'm quite happy to just sit and look at it!
Looking at the first photo, I was just thinking the exact same thing myself. It gives the perfect image of a quite place to go after a shocking day at the office, with a folding chair and a six pack, and to just admire the view. . . . .
Oh, love the toothless grin on the "Test Pilot" in the second photo ;)
Baz
She announced the other night that her favourite show is Top Gear - she's coming along nicely, just working on her younger sister now :)
Derek, good advice. I can definitely obsess about details so I'm trying to stay sensible and just fix what needs fixing.
I was planning to get the brake calipers redone in the goldy coloured zinc chromate but I think I'll just get them
sandblasted and powder coated black. Doesn't show the brake dust so much and it's easy to clean.
The brake pistons cleaned up nicely - the one on the right spent 15 mins in a Supercheap ultrasonic cleaner in 50/50 water & vinegar followed by a light rub with a scotchbrite pad.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160714/5c70a7b68e7d02763297978153844fe7.jpg)
You can try Italian Automotive Spares in Melbourner for 105 parts....
We got brakes(discs & pads) and caliper kits in stock all the time.
Thanks Domenic - email sent.
The rear caliper pistons didn't want to budge. Plenty of surface rust under the dust boot, but some time in the ultrasonic cleaner to get at the rust scale followed by 100psi from the air compressor got them moving.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/92b295e47f2939f14ced8d162c857c5b.jpg)
The trick to get both pistons out instead of just 1 side - a large screwdriver down the middle to stop whichever side moves first.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/f71a95048f268d1f16ca3cff9697d3ea.jpg)
All apart with the cylinders cleaned up. Ready to have the bodies sand blasted now.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/2ae9f0701f331726609fba4c34a8ab84.jpg)
Some progress if slow. Brakes are all done and I've sprayed them in black VHT paint. I had to refit them to drive the car down and back up my driveway to clean off all the mud it picked up from sitting at a mate's farm before being delivered to me.
I made a DIY pressure bleeder by fitting a bike valve in the top of a spare clutch reservoir cap and my trusty bike pump. 15-20psi pushed a steady flow though.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/a4dd185b9730dda9657917fda341bb99.jpg)
It's back in the garage and I'm gradually pulling off trim and will polish the brightwork as I go.
I'm making a list of all the little things that need to be replaced so trying to clean up as much as I can and only buy the things I must. Trading dollars for elbow grease as much as possible!
Great work!!! ;)
Currently learning how to polish stainless - worked out there are no shortcuts :)
Quote from: Damien Smith on September 03, 2016, 09:31:06 AM
Currently learning how to polish stainless - worked out there are no shortcuts :)
I'd love to know the process from whoa to go.. I had my duetto scudetto polished and it looked the same when I got it back, incl. scratches.
Can't afford to send all the stainless parts I have to Franjo :(
I found this series of 3 videos to be very informative as a starting point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTxR8LB9iek
I'm still working out what works on one of the overriders, but still see very fine scratches.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/5a79aa7017e684b8fb62e0620e2dd2d7.jpg)
General process I've followed:
- 320 grit sandpaper to remove the worse scratches
- 600 grit
- 1200 grit wet using a 5" disc on a low speed drill
- 2000 grit wet as above
- 6" sisal buff on 560W bench grinder
- 6" loose calico buff
The edges are perfect so I think it comes down to more time & pressure for each stage.
Quote from: Damien Smith on September 03, 2016, 09:31:06 AM
Currently learning how to polish stainless - worked out there are no shortcuts :)
Aren't you glad you don't own a DeLorean! :o
Baz
PS - (And believe it or not, Deloreans look to go back into low level production)
http://www.delorean.com/new-delorean-production-update.htm
They'll probably be more of a success 2nd time around!
I've ordered a 50mm Velcro sanding disc for the drill and also a stack of 600 grit 50mm discs. I did the 600 stage by hand and think that's where I fell short such that the 1200 and 2000 weren't effective.
Will report back with progress!
I've been sidetracked with a new job of late so not much has really happened.
I'm occasionally working on the stainless steel polishing but the lack of amazing results doesn't do a lot for the motivation. I'm tempted to outsource it but considering how difficult it is my concerns are 1. Cost 2. Quality.
I also need to track down a series 2 1750 engine. I've just put up a WTB post but there's no urgency. Due to my over enthusiasm at the time of purchase I'd checked the engine & chassis number with the encumbrance register but didn't confirm the engine number paperwork matched what's in the car. Turns out it has a 2L lump.
The engine needs attention which I did know, but I'd rather fit the correct size engine.
I'll start stripping it down soon to get it ready for body and paint.
Some small progress. Rebuilt the passenger door hinges with new bronze bushes today so the door doesn't drop anymore.
I've also taken a different tact with the stainless. Instead of trying to remove every scratch I'm leaving the larger scratches as they are and bringing the surface back to a shine. Everything is quite dull as it is and it's a 46 year old car after all.
After cleaning each part I'm using 2000 grit sandpaper (dry) to remove any surface crud and light scratches. This is followed by a 8" loose calico buff on the bench grinder with polishing compound. This removes the scratches from the 2000 grit sandpaper to bring out the shine.
Polished on the left, untouched on the right.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161112/ae8534da1787b56a0ced8902a4cdf3ed.jpg)
I think to get a flawless mirror shine buying new is probably the best option but I'm keeping as much as I can.
I'm stripping the doors and have everything out except the quarter window frame. I've unbolted the 3 places I found where it's attached but there's a stud with no nut at the front which it seems to be stuck on.
Looks like the frame needs to move back to clear the stud instead of coming straight up and out of the door. Is this correct? It wobbles but won't move back for me but it might be stuck on the threads.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/0434ac2f9f1676cf2110af51ab61b37f.jpg)
I have a much simpler method, though of course it depends on the depth of the scratches.
I simply apply Autosol to a hand towel. Not a soft, smooth microfibre cloth; a quality hand towel. This removes all the scratches and swirls from the stainless steel mufflers on my motorcycles if buffing laterally along the pipes. Dremel and orbital polisher don't do side-to-side and don't work.
Over time the towel is impregnated with polish so I reach a point at which I only occasionally have to apply more. Just did the head stem and cranks on my 35 year old racing bicycle and they are so smooth and shiny I hope people don't think they are chrome plated.
Thanks for that - I'll give Autosol a try.
I managed to remove the quarter window frame - I'd missed a large screw which is accessed by removing the small water seal above the top hinge.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/396f19827bb6ca46d1c9b91cae25308c.jpg)
The interior is pretty much stripped and the dash is out.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/3f7451f43a9d95a1d9035da3b978e789.jpg)
Radiator is out and the next major task will be removing the engine/gearbox.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/642a03f8c39fda116cc17c07fe08687d.jpg)
No idea when I'll get to that. It's a leisurely pace :)
Over 3 years without an update as nothing has really happened in that time.
I've recently found some motivation to keep going and am really keeping to the basics just to get it on the road. I was originally planning to pull out the engine (2L) to get the body sorted and replace the 2L with a 1750 so it's the proper engine, but the 2L is good enough so it's staying put. The body is rough but sound apart from behind the front wheels so that'll get some attention later.
Over the last week I've fitted a new wiring harness from Scott's Old Auto Rubber and apart from a few wires identified as "unknown duty" I've managed to match everything up. I labelled a lot of the old harness as it came out which helped a lot.
Carbies are out and due for a refresh. Open to suggestions for where to send Webers for a full spruce up?
The rear demister is beyond gone. The glass will have to come out anyway for headlining to go in so I've been looking at stick on kits from the UK. Has anyone scraped off the remains of the old demister and applied a new one?
I have a bunch of random parts on order at the moment so there will be more to come.