I agree chris with your suggestions on replacing only what I have too, I will always try to repair the original as I hate throwing anything out, unlike my wife with her shoes!

It sounds like you have done plenty of restoration work yourself, have you tackled any body panel repairs such as replacing the outer sills?  if not do you know who has done this themselves as I will be doing this task myself when hopefully the exchange rate gets alittle better so that i can get the parts from O/S.

Did you notice the push button radio in the picture, if I was a betting man (which I'm not) I would say it was its original sound system, Yes?

I was reading the workshop manual and noted that the brake caliper pistons should be reassembled in the caliper in a certain position using some sort of tool, is this important as I cannot see what difference the position of the pistion would make.

Can any members shed light on this?

Thanks again,
Tim

Well chris I have had a very successful weekend now that I have managed to free up the frozen clutch.   Today I change the old cooling fluid out of her after successfully starting and warming her up yesterday.   I was delighted to see only a little browny coloured water come out of the radiator and engine block drain plug when I flushed it through with a hose.

Now that it has nice clean inhibitor fluid in her I tried again to free the frozen clutch it by starting it in 4th gear and to my delight it went bang and freed up after another 10 attempts.   I was then able to put her in gear and aleast drive it 10 feet , unfortunately the brakes are frozen on so a longer test run will have to wait a little longer.

I was very happy to hear that wonderful burble from the carbys again and was surprised at how smooth it seem to idle.     I did look on that same web site that had the picture of the dellorto however it did not really look I like what I had, I must find a better more detail picture when it is time to overhaul them in the future.

I did notice that when she finally fired up the tacho was dancing up and down, is this common for these tachos?

Also noticed that my oil pressure gauge did not work, light does go out, so I presume the sender is at fault, is there a good way to check these?

The photos show a hazard light on my car, I wonder if this was standard for the 2000 model.

My gear shift boot has 2 rubber boots on it, cannot work out the purpose of the top boot!

The rear photo was meant to show the handful of rust that fired out of the tail pipe when she first burst into life.

Good weekend all up, thanks again for all the member help, i really make the quest of restoration less of a loney mission at times.

Cheers Tim

Well I have finally got my 105 to start, thanks guys for the advice, I did all the checks and every thing was correct ( points gap, timing order, cam lobe timing marks and yes I found the timing marks) and yet she refused to start all day.    I even took all the jets out and checked them even though they really did not look exactly like the exploded diagram that chris forwarded.

It even did not seem to fire when squirting start you barstard so I double checked everything and yet no go.   At about 4pm I was about to give up and I decided to try one one time with a combination of throttle and choke and frustration when she finally burst into life.     Apart from a little back firing from the carbys it sounded so wonderful, my wife came out and could only see the whites of my smile as I warmed her up.

The next issue I have is that the clutch is frozen on the flywheel, I tried to free it up by starting  it in 4th gear however after about 10 lurches forward it has not freed up.

Any suggestions.

Cheers from a smiling TCJ

Thanks chris and matt your advice, I will go back to basics and check the electrics and timing first, finding timing marks is the first task.   I still feel fuel is not geting to the cylinders, yes colin the carby bowls are full of clean fuel, I will try to see if any fuel comes out of the accelerator pump jets as well.

As for my 308, it had 4 twin throat webbers and I never needed to touch them in the 10 years I had her, I do miss the sound of these carbies at work!

PS:  I did read on one site that if the accererator pump diaphram  was cracked it would leak fuel on to the starter and this has caused engine fires, especially in Lotuses.

Cheers Tim

Thanks guys i will try that, however I think I will be up for a complete rekit and clean job of the carby in the near future.   

Can anyone post info on how best to clean and rekit these carbys.

Thanks Tim

Chris you can see from the pictures how bad my tank was.

Not much luck this week.   Installed a new filter, fuel pump and hoses, rigged a temporary tank in the boot and tried all weekend to get her to start.   Even with a squirt of start you barstard it would only fir for a couple of seconds.     Even after pumping the accelerator pedal the plugs remain dry.    I took the main jets and tubes out and blew them the carby bowl looked clean yet there still is a problem, can any one help?

I have checked that the plugs are sparking but cannot check the timing because I cannot see any marks on the crankshaft flywheel, what are they ment to look like?

A disappointing weekend all up

Cheers Tim

Had a win this week as I managed to obtain a good second hand tank from a sedan which I will clean up and cut its filler neck off and put a fuel hose on it to join the original filler neck.

The original tank had some sort of rubbery gasket that separated the tank from the body of the car, what have other members used to replace this gasket with, any suggestions?

cheers Tim

Thanks Chris, it is a rather nice little glass bowl the filter sits in so I will do as the book says.

I presume when I get a new fuel pump and crank the engine over you should expect to see a good squirt of fuel coming out of the fuel hose to the carbys?, when the fuel float in the carbys are shut where does the fuel by pass the carbys?

cheers Tim

Hi Guys,

This weekend saw a new battery and managed to turn the engine over and get some oil pressure, that was the good news.

I was probably hoping for too much to expect after flushing the fuel system out and squirting start you bastard in the carbys that it would start for me after 5 years rest.

After checking the plugs were still dry, I pulled the fuel hose off the carby inlet, cranked it over a number of times and did not get more that a thimble of fuel out it, so I guess the fuel pump needs to be replaced.   When taking the fuel pump and the fuel bowl assembly off, I noticed that the fuel filter body looks like some sort of regulator.


Can someone explain what this regulator is meant to do and do I need to take the top of this regulator to clean it, can it be tested or is it a rather large assembly simply to house a small fuel filter?

Cheers Tim

Good summary of exactlty what I have experienced to dated with my car Dave, I am just hoping the dollar will creep a little higher to help source parts.

Cheers Tim

Hi Guys,

I am after panels too, can you let us know Burwood Panelworks number or email

Thanks Tim

Thanks Chris,

I will try your suggested bleeding routine and hope that fluid does come out of the M/C bleed nipple when I do it!

I have looked at trying to turn the engine over by hand using a socket however there does not seem enough room to get a socket and handle in there, the fan and cowling leave no room and the front beam supporting the radiator is very close to prevent doing it from under neath the car?

regards TIM

Thanks gary, I have 8amp fuses in all except No1 fuse, do you know what the recommended Fuse is?

Yes dave I have a can of the start juice, if you hear a scream some time over the weekend you know I did not have any luck starting her!

Cheers Tim

Cris,

Your new Master cylinder looks like mine, so the question still remains, what is the bleed nipple on this used for in the brake bleeding process?

Any advice on how to turn the engine over by hand?

Tim

Chris,

Having just bleed my 105gtv 2000 brakes iaw the hand book instructions there was no mention of the bleed screw nipples on the boosters and the brake master cylinder, so what are these nipples for and are they part of the brake hydraulic bleeding process?

Cheers tim