I've been missing for a little while but some late advice if not done yet.
   Guessing that this will be done on the ground and adding to Alan's comment's, i usually chock front wheels, jack rear of car and put jack stands at rear points of sills(just infront of rear wheels), as high as jack stands will let you and let wheels go to full droop. Undo gear linkage from isostatick? linkage(drive the pin out without loosing in the dirt!), mark and undo rear donut bolts (3 of), undo the 6 large bolts holding the cross member in(have a jack under front of g/box just in case), but when the front dosn't drop, jack rear of didion near wattlink which will lower the front of the gear box enough to replace the front mounts. (caution not to lower front to far as the clutch hose has not been diconnected). This way lets you use everyday tools and you can get your hands in, but is some times temper testing when putting the mount bolts in(leave bolts loose till all are started)  isn't to bad...there are worse jobs...

First thought was clutch housing bearings...however seen as you've checked that and checked/replaced everything between the two flywheels, i'd almost suggest gearbox input shaft bearings/or a mark on the shaft which the bearing runs on. However, if you throw another g/box in while you look at this one(keeping the clutch and clutch housing the same) it will atleast tell you if it's in the g/box or not! I have come across this when rebuilding these g/box's...not common, but i have seen it.

The answer is yes...your tyre's are 'scoloped'. My girlfriends car has done the same thing recently. So, time for new tyre's. Usually due to time spent with incorrect tyre pressure and wheel alignment not perfect. Is the rear tyre's on g/f car and it's only 2yrs old, So as soon as new tyre's are fitted, i guess i'll be doing a four wheel alignment.

Yep...about to put in a cage...And not sure if you can, but may be wurth askin if you can exchange the gloves??? I'm not sure how the retail side works, but just a thought.

I don't usually try to plug my work on you all to much, but if anyone wants cheap Alpinestar gear, 35-40% off Suits, Gloves, Boots, etc, we're having a big sale this week! Lots of stock, but once gone, that's it. Starts Saturday 18th Oct, if interested may need to get in sooner rather than later. www.mmsport.com.au .
     

Hi there, We sell the Toyo's at workwww.mmsport.com.au, the main ones are the RA1's and the R888's. I've been running my green car on them for 4 to 5 years now and they're excelant. If you want instant high grip (drag, hill climb, and short sprint's(more than 6 or 7 laps they get slippery)) go the RA1. The RA1's are also quieter on the road. The R888 have a more agressive pattern, and take a lap or two to get up to temp. but that's it...they stay there(good for things like the 6hr). With a little road noise. I run the R888's at around 28psi on track and 30 ish on the road. I just put a new set of R888's on but the last set lasted 3.5 to 4 yrs. didn't have an odometer then, but they did two S.A Mallala 6hr race weekends, including driving there and back both times, 4 trips to Sydney, about 6 Alfa sprint days and driven on the road about every second day for 3 years. Gripy tyre, but if you drive nice on the road with correct pressure, and a good wheel alignment(not to much camber or toe in) they last pretty good.
      I havn't tried the RA1's myself, but customers seem to like them.

pretty sure the small breather is on top of the tank...in the middle near the fuel level sender.

High pressure isn't part of fuel injection. The tank breather will be blocked. The down sides to this is, long term, the tank may split(as pressure goes up and down, the tank slightly expands and then back to normal. But over years). Also with extream high pressure in the system, may run slightly richer...but not to common.
     General run down of the system and set up is,
          The tank has two breathers, the large one is usually near the filler neck of the tank and goes to the fuel cap. This one is to let the air out when filling up.
           The second, and usually the smaller one, goes to a carbon canister(or sometimes, depending on car, to a fuel/vapour seporater first, then carbon canister). The carbon canister filters the fuel vapour from the fuel tank, and then through a small solenoid valve, dumps the vapour into the inlet manifold to be burnt in the engine. This valve opens(depending on manufacturer) when eg, brake is applied, or on start up, ect.
     This set up is an ADR requirment for all fuel injected cars in order to meet emission related ADR's
           Also, if this system is working right...you shouldn't get any fuel smells in your car...

Welcome, and congrates on your buy! yeah, even though is carbi...they not to bad on petrol...and fun little things to drive!

Looking at the few things you said, i'd say the chances are that you may have a few little problems...
     Pulling to the right, and able to lock the right, says that the right front caliper is working, but the left is not(or atleast not as much as the right). Most common problem here is usually an old brake line. The rubber brake line colapses inside after many years, and the fluid has problems getting through.
     By jacking up the front to get wheels off the ground, spin the wheel by hand while someone else applies the brake. If the brake is slow to grab and or release, then most likely will be the rubber brake hose. A sticky or jammed piston is usually shown by only wearing out one brake pad in the caliper.

     Handbrake being high is a case of manually adjusting the rear brakes. This is done at the rear calipers, not the hand brake cable!

     Lastly, if the booster is working and the peddle is high, and after the front left brake is checked, poor braking can sometimes be as simple as having bad pads! I'm not sure what everyone else runs, but i've got Mintex in my road car, and they are excelant.
     P.s. If you don't know when your brake fluid was last changed, i would recomend changing it and giving the system a flush. Is cheap and should be done every 2 years as moisture get in and lowers it's boiling point.

     Hope this helps...

Hi there, there is a few things it could be, to check, but first need to know whats happening!
     Is your brake peddle -Hard or soft?
                                 -High or low?
     
     Does the brake peddle pump up? Or sink when applied slowly?
     
     Is your handbrake high or low?
   
Or when you say that they're crap, do you mean when driving?
     Vibraites or makes noises when braking?
     Car pulls to one side when braking?

Most common is rear brakes in need of adjustment, which will bring the peddle up and handbrake back down to a few clicks, and also crap fluid, be it full of moisture or air bubbles, and in need of a full bleed and flush.

However, if you want to test your brake booster:-
      With the engine off, press the brake peddle a dozen times or so to remove static vacuum.
      Then, with one foot pressed fermly on the brake peddle, start the engine.
      If the booster is working, the peddle should pull down a little more as the engine vacuum pulls on the booster.

Should swap...as long as the 2ltr car is after 82(has plastic bumper bars)

Sorry to say that they are basically 105...The only things that unbolt are doors, bonnet, rear hatch, and the usual accesories. All pannels are bronzed and spot welded on and heaps of rivets holding the windows in...so the rear side windows are real fiddly to get out. Window winders are also riveted.

Yes nice car...the semi funny thing i find about this cars figures, is that while it puts out 1000Bhp...it weighs just over 2000kg!!! so rather than spending the $1.2million or what ever it costs you could put 500-600Bhp into an alfa or anything else of your liking of that weight and get a similar kick in the pants!
      If this link works, it's top gear, euro fighter vs bugatti vayron
               http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NZ9X9A2efA