Hey Mick,
I'm glad you decided to follow it up........it sounded there for a while you had put it in the 'some other time' basket.
As I said, everything I've ever read about it has been positive, and in a familiar type of car is a bonus.
Try to have fun (I reckon that won't be hard).

Scott and Phil are absolutey right about GpS, and the bonus is that if you build a car within the Historic Regulations, it will always have good re-sale value with a broad market (as far as race cars go) either as a complete car or even component form, should you ever decide to re-enact your P.I. efforts!
If you build up a club class bitzer, it only ever has very limited appeal to anyone else at a later date.

Alan,
Certainly the later, plastic bumper GTV4s and GTV6s should be considered the same body, indeed they both share the 116 chassis number on earlier GTV6s, and 119 on later V6 only.
It is not a problem successfully upgrading a 2lt to V6 running gear, as Claude Botti's  converted blue car shows, but in the appropriate manner for the class.
I don't think that "plastic bumper" models would be any problem, but not any crossover between those and earlier steel bumper cars; i.e. No V6 engines into earlier cars in standard class.

I don't see any problem with the spirit of the rules, but given that all the GTV6 running gear (cooling system, wiring loom, driveshafts, cv's, fuel tank, bumpers, sun roof, etc) is heavier than a 4 cyl, I think you would be starting at a disadvantage, and GTV6 has THE worst gear ratios and no LSD......I'm not sure it's quite the direction I would start from by choice.

Just saw this thread; I have a mould for rear the hatch.
Give me a call; 0398440147.
Cheers,
Vin.

Hey Branko,
Don't look now, I think your pop rivets are showing.....(Italians trying to save a dollar again???)
Bella machinna! 
I know you wanted an improved power to weight ratio, but this sure has to be the ultimate way of achieving it!
Is the lower nose bare metal? It is a recent addition, as is the Sebring mirror.
The wheels in the pics look like the 7" face, or maybe 6" with extra off-set?

Sad to hear about your Uncle's passing. Mario was around the Victorian state racing scene in the '70s.
When I worked for Paul England engineering back then, I used to see Mario often as he brought in various engine bits for rebuild.  Mario was the sort of driver who really hung it out on the limit all the time, or exited in spectacular fashion!
He did race the ex-MW Motors 1600 GTA, but Sid of MW Motors told me that it was written off at the old Hume Weir track in the early '70s. He  built up another GT after that which he continued to race. I think Charlie at the Italian Job has most of the original GTAs parts.
If you can get a chassis number, I can tell you what it was.
Cheers,
Vin.

Hmm, the words that come mind are 'fried rice'. I guess that goes well with the Toyota engine and trans!!

Jim switches the engine OFF if it gets as low as 5500rpm!
"Below 5000rpm is for parking" he says, as another pinion shaft tries to escape to freedom through the side of the diff casing........

Barry has been putting together a list of special significance Alfas, both road or cars that have an interesting past or rarity, and race cars or cars that have had a competition history in Australia.
All this is to attempt to contact owners of such cars and extend an invitation to be part of the 2010 100th year events and celebrations.
So, if anybody knows of cars that might fit the bill, post what you know here so that we have  plenty of time to try to locate owners and make contact.

Tony K from NSW put in a good effort at his first visit to the Winton track. He came away with fastest GpS time overall with a 1:09.18. in his '79 GTV.

Don't  remove the thermostat or yes it will run dead cold on the road and run thru too fast on the track. Check that it is opening fully by boiling it in a pot of water and checking it.
IN any case I would say that 100deg after a few laps say at Winton (low road speed, high revs) is about what you would expect from a standard radiator. This temp is okay as such, BUT it leaves no margin for hotter weather conditions, and the engine will run more efficiently at 80/85 deg. A larger rad is the best option and a smaller crankshaft pulley to slow down the over-speed water pump which can cause cavitation and loss of cooling efficiency.

Don't let the valves get any closer to the piston than 1.75mm @tdc/on overlap and you will be safe.
You can do a quick check of this by putting a length of soft solder down the plug hole and across the cut-out/valve area and measuring how much it gets quashed to at tdc on overlap.
As for the overlap itself, if you know what cams are in the motor, then check the factory figures and do a basic calc from that, based on how many holes you have moved it from the std mark.
As you will no doubt be doing seat of the pants road tests to see what happens, knowing the actual timing is probably not of importance. 

Hi there smiffy,
The method of cam adjustment is the same for carb and F.I. engines.
Make sure the 22mm nut is done up tight! Remember that this big nut provides the clamping force that drives the camshaft, the small bolt is only a timing position locating pin......Do not just do up the 22mm nut against the resistance of the engine, or you will have unhappy consequences at a later stage. Use a piece of hardwood or aluminium wedged between a cam lobe and the side of the head to provide a positive stop for the camshaft, so the nut can then be pulled up tight.
The soft and dubious 'locking-tabs' are obsolete when the nut is done correctly.
Cheers,
Vin.

Apparently Evan did not seem get the message with the horse's-head-in-the-bed thing, so the meeting in the Italian restuarant just went to the next level!
Seems Bruno  just does not like those Suds.
Evan, just be thankfull you don't drive an ARNA, you might have been knee-capped!
Get well mate. I cringe every time I hear the story. (About 50 times at last nights meeting)